RAWDEAL

Painting a car trailer

41 posts in this topic

so i bought a trailer basically the same as this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/16X6-6-FT-BEAVERTAIL-CAR-CARRIER-TRAILER/132158616438?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

it will be ready in a few weeks

 

i want to paint it red or orange (as in like catarpillar type orange)

 

just wondering if there is a red or orange coulored hammertone paint i can buy?

i dunno wtf is what when it comes to the types of paint..

 

basically after some sorta industrial paint for it.. not sure how many litres i would need also maybe 5?

 

the reason i want to paint it a diffferent coulor is to deter people from fuckin stealing it lol and if it gets rolled i can at least be on the lookout for a different coulored trailer

Ando81 likes this

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2 minutes ago, Ando81 said:

I don't know much about paint either mate but could you paint it with 2 pak paint and have a little more hardener in it so it's harder wearing?

yeah i am not sure mate

i was gonna get the trailer builder guy to do it as its gonna get done anyway.. he doesnt really stock different colors so i was gonna supply the paint

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Yeah fair enough, would be handy to know someone that works in earthmoving that might have a contact for cheap paint. Surely there is a mate of a mate out there somewhere, good luck

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Since your near Geelong I'd contact Darby Paints they should be ale to help     http://darbyspaints.com.au/geelong-store/

Wattyl paints do a few colours http://www.wattylindustrial.com.au/documents/industrial/Hammerfinish Card_v7.pdf

I'm with Ando for 2pak tho, my car trailer is nearly 3 years old & it gets chipped rather easy, I've touched up the front of the trailer like 5 times already.

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12 minutes ago, FORD_MAN said:

Since your near Geelong I'd contact Darby Paints they should be ale to help     http://darbyspaints.com.au/geelong-store/

Wattyl paints do a few colours http://www.wattylindustrial.com.au/documents/industrial/Hammerfinish Card_v7.pdf

I'm with Ando for 2pak tho, my car trailer is nearly 3 years old & it gets chipped rather easy, I've touched up the front of the trailer like 5 times already.

oh ok so 2pack is better resistant to stone chips ? 

 

is there anyone who could enlighten me to the differences between

 

acrylic

2pac

enamel

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Acrylic: single component, air dry, not illegal to spray without a booth but adviseable. Does not require baking. Forgiving to spray, can be touched up easily and sanded/blended. Ideal for beginners.

2-pack: strong, but brittle compared to acrylic. UV resistant. Resists chips and scratching much more but its strength can work against it ie: the metal can rust under the paint while it remains intact. Highly toxic when uncured. Illegal to spray outside of a properly filtered booth and needs some serious protective gear. Must start from the metal up with 2-pack system (cannot apply over acrylic or enamel) or use a coat of isolator between layers. Most need baking in an oven to properly cure. Hard to correct mistakes once cured.

Epoxy: very strong (see above) but bonds very well to steel, much more oil/solvent/fuel/chemical-resistant than other coatings, requires specialised thinners and solvents. Lighter colours can dull or yellow in the sun over time. Not sure if illegal if sprayed outside, protective gear is essential, only means of removal once cured is by mechanical, very long cure time (more chance of dust ingress) ie: around 24 hours. Very expensive when compared to other paints.



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I'd recommend valspar industrial mix (vim for short). Very cheap, would cost about $200 for a 4L kit with everything.
http://www.valsparautomotive.com.au/our-brands/valspar-industrial-mix
Goes over everything, bare steel, acrylic, 2k etc. Self etching and fills 180# scratches, can be tinted to many colours including metallic.

Polyurethane enamel 2pac. 2 coats and your done. Dry time can't remember but will air dry. Very durable industrial coatings.

I'd suggest prepping the trailer for paint then hiring a booth for the day, roll in hit it, bake if available and roll home.

clevocortina, Valvebouncer and gerg like this

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I'd recommend valspar industrial mix (vim for short). Very cheap, would cost about $200 for a 4L kit with everything.
http://www.valsparautomotive.com.au/our-brands/valspar-industrial-mix
Goes over everything, bare steel, acrylic, 2k etc. Self etching and fills 180# scratches, can be tinted to many colours including metallic.

Polyurethane enamel 2pac. 2 coats and your done. Dry time can't remember but will air dry. Very durable industrial coatings.

I'd suggest prepping the trailer for paint then hiring a booth for the day, roll in hit it, bake if available and roll home.


I second that. Cheap good and easy to apply
2redrovers likes this

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So ive sorted it out its gonna end up looking like this . Non hammertone but its an industrial enamal


Now i have seen this guy makes trailers with 100mm drop axles

Ita basically the same price to go drop axles OR a beavertail

I am thinking drop axles might be the go..

Ive sold a few things outta my shed i have some spare cash i might upgrade from slipper to rocker springs and maybe go 50mm axles instead of 40

Unsure whats better a beavertail or a lowered straight trailer

Cant lower the beavertail or i wont be able to get it over hills ect lol

But the straight trailer means i can use the whole length of the trailer for other shit such as carrying pipes or whateverd70551d17d447fd9380e57bacb0c0db0.jpg

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ok so went in there today

my 2800 dollar trailer is costing 3600 now ffs lol

BUT it will be good

 

full flat trailer

100mm drop axles

2.5m ramps instead of 1.8m

instead of having the spare in the middle of the drawbar its gonna be on a post thing near the hitch at the front (so i can put a toolbox in the middle of the drawbar)

added 16 more rope rail tubes so i can tie it off better

changed springs to rocker type

 

just had way to many shit times trying to get the xb onto a car trailer .. the long ramps and low trailer should make it better.. not that i need to tow it the car should drive itself haha

Valvebouncer and deankdx like this

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It might sound like an extra $800 is a lot more money but it's better to do it right the first time. How frustrating would it be if you wanted to change stuff and add extra tie down points after at the paint had been done and finished. I'd rather pay the extra prior to paint any day

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It might sound like an extra $800 is a lot more money but it's better to do it right the first time. How frustrating would it be if you wanted to change stuff and add extra tie down points after at the paint had been done and finished. I'd rather pay the extra prior to paint any day

Yep thats right i could easily do it but then getting bits sandblasted and repainted fuck that shit off haha

Also i can carry shit on the last meter of the trailer on a flat trailer rather than it being basically unusable if its angled

I measured it and its 100mm that the beaver tail makes it drop so 100mm drop axles is the same

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Also because i hired a trailer once that had a LED light on a post and also a built in toolbox that housed ratchet straps and the battery for the electric winch.. fuck it makes it easy

That reminds me im gonna get a bit of tube welded onto the front of the drawbar so i can mount a led worklight..

And a small plate on the rear so i can have an led reverse light

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Ok so i picked this thing up new years eve.

 

Ended up on workcover for ages n couldnt afford to pay to pick it up after i ordered it lol

 

 

Scrap price is ok at the moment so ive scrapped 4 cars this year lol971b3174aa8b9b0f9a6c926a8ace6b70.jpg5979abfdc9aebd5f620c41c71375aa37.jpg

 

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are you picking up wrecks to scrap? should we place orders of anything interesting that pops up.. 

gemini... rodeo 4cyl. upto TF.. (gemini engine)  etc...

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6 hours ago, deankdx said:

are you picking up wrecks to scrap? should we place orders of anything interesting that pops up.. 

gemini... rodeo 4cyl. upto TF.. (gemini engine)  etc...

if anyone in melb or geelong or within a few hours needs anything moved i can help out

at the moment the electric winch is missing a part so i havnt installed it . but that wont be far off. 

i just finished doing the toolbox yesterday and i have to still mount the worklight

 

ive scrapped 4 cars from my personal graveyard , and moved my mates xr6t from geelong to hoppers.. not bad for the first few weeks lol

2redrovers and deankdx like this

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Im pretty sure my xb and any lowered car i want will fit on it lol. Only problem is you cant open the doors.

I was wondering if thats the correct spot to load a car on?. I got speed wobbles above 90 in that spot.. car needed to go forward 150mm maybe

Only 2 problems ive had with the trailer are 1 the jockey wheel is welded to low

2 the center of gravity seems to be off it looks like the wheels/axles/ect should be mounted back 200mm because if i had a wagon on the trailer the wagon would be hitting the winch and prob would still get the wobbles79fb85da47b061b216adcc9003e9e5e5.jpgfbb344b5e31404ad4db51f3a6975f03e.jpg96cadbb55c5d87c737bfc2d974a5a5ac.jpg

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Most of the time when i have put cars on trailers i have put them as far forward as possible.It looks like the drawbar on this is a bit short.If that ute was all the way forward onto the front cross bar, i bet it would make a world of difference in towability. Maybe you could take the toolbox off and give it another go for a comparison.

By theway  i might need a Nf fairlane towed from Manifold Heights to Bullengarook soon if your interested.But it is a non goer and would need ya winch going to get it on.

gerg likes this

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I could be way off here but it’s worth a shot. I’ve got a px ranger and the tow hitch is too high for every trailer I put onto it so I was wondering if you could put a Hayman Reese drop hitch into your receiver to lower the front of the trailer which in theory should throw weight towards the front of the trailer to avoid swaying. Just be aware that if it’s a ford towbar, the Hayman Reese drop hitch may need to be modified to go into the ford receiver. I’m told that Hayman tongues are too long to line up with the hole for the locking pin.

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