Jump to content
CHESTNUTXE

84DA CROSSFLOW BUILD

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

on ordering leads i need the efi crossflow leads to go on the tfi style dizzy is that correct ? or is just the difference on what cap you run

efi leads are slightly longer due to clipping to the front of the rocker cover(longer path) 
if you have a TFI dizzy they were all unleaded so the cap, spacer and rotor button will all be from unleaded(1986 model) if you choose the carby leads(same cap etc as the 1992 etc crossflow XF ute) they will go over the top of the rocker cover maybe(assuming the aussiespeed one is not much taller) but the efi ones would be long enough for sure.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

 

good info dean i was wondering about height or just get slightly longer leads i have got my eye on some eagle 9mm or is it any benifet goung 10 or 11 ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes the neat n tidy look always looks smart i just orderd some efi bosch leads in black with grey plug covers ,next is find someone to make the 3 pins with some length of wire to hook into the side of the dizzy,then buy the blue coil and msd box,then ,then ,then then it never ends:o

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This sunday im more than likley gunna buy a 1992 xf ute auto 4.1,just to get my new crossy up and running can i use the auto est ecu computer or would i need a manual one,or is there a better later model ecu like a eb or ed ef ? that will plug straight in,i have read on here somewhere a 3.3L ECU MIGHT work better ? i wont be doing any serious revving just to get it going ,then later fit the better ignition.:D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Doesn't matter what model module you use in Auto or Manual. Yes 3.3 Manual has best timing curve but use to fool em by dropping the temp sender in the washer bottle with a earth leed on it. Or you can use a couple of relays in series I think ??? to fool it to keep full timing. 

Once it reaches I think 85 degree's the timing module pulls a heap of timing out of it and doing one of the tricks above get around it.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been doing some research on carbys for my crossy ,seems the new quickfuel carbys are very popular,most places are saying go a 450 d/p but i was really looking for a 600 size in the hardcore grey ultra hp and a price tag of around $1000,holley offer many new designs but not many in black in the cheaper range,im a bit shocked by new prices on these things tbh,is it worth ordering from summitt ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Camshaft and compression dictate carby size. Xflows L O V E big carbys and online CFM predictors are no where near right for the long stroke small bore 250 cube inline.      

I used a 750DP last time it was a 4 barrel car East/West and it was the best it ever was as a single carb car. Pro Systems speced it with a 790 unit but webbers solved all the induction issues. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have been doing some research on carbys for my crossy ,seems the new quickfuel carbys are very popular,most places are saying go a 450 d/p but i was really looking for a 600 size in the hardcore grey ultra hp and a price tag of around $1000,holley offer many new designs but not many in black in the cheaper range,im a bit shocked by new prices on these things tbh,is it worth ordering from summitt ?
Best to shop around, look at Jegs or sometimes directly from the manufacturer. Not always cheaper but worth looking. Some smaller mobs can do better and look after you on freight. That's the killer these days.

I got my MSD from a place in Puerto Rico, price was better and freight was less.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i saw mustadxf got a 650 HP for his crossy,down the track i do intend to ramp the comp up to 11 odd to 1 with flat tops,replacing the dish's i put in at presant the comp is 9.7 .1.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Online carby calculators are never right period. They do not take into account pressure drop across the carb. What revs will you be doing? For most people a 600 is still very big. A 450 4brl will create basically zero restriction upto 5,000rpm, on a street car a 600 will handle just over 6,500. In full drag trim a 650 is good to over 6,500 (not enough for sly at 7,000).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well what would be the limits of the crossy 7000-7500 ? from what is being said looks like a 650 size should be ok,question is a 650 d/p just a 600 with bigger jets or is the whole circuitry different ,im no expert on these carbys but i have had some experiance with both vac's and d/p.also being quite a big cam in this thing i was gunna check vaccum at idle,maybe the power valve will need to be dropped down a few sizes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you've got a 600 laying chuck it on and see how it goes, my 600 was just a rebuilt one to see how it went, the new carby I got seems like it will be sweet, ran and idled smooth straight out of the box will see how it looks on dyno

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i dont have any carbys lying around ,but having a re-co 600 vac is only about 300 bucks i should just get one try it out for a while then upgrade as needed,i can always use the carb on another crossy,i have quite a few here now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A 600 will "spin" to over 7,000, but it will be a restriction assuming something else isn't limiting it first or to a greater extent.

If I was building a 7,000rpm crossflow for the purposes of drag racing, a 650 would be minimum. For a street car which occasionally sees 7k just for fun a 600 is enough. But if it is just a street car put a 450 on it and a 5,500 rpm cam and have a nicer car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

from my first plans to getting this engine built i wanted flat tops but the engine builder talked me out of it as he was aiming for 10 ish comp,but in the end it worked out to 9.7 with 0.005 deck and 040 gasket ,so im gunna just go with it for a while and in 12 months or so order a 020 flat top set ,fit the head studs that never got orderd,and fit the girdle that never got fitted because i already orderd a arp main stud in std length and it was to short for the girdle,and ol.m8 didnt want to shave the caps down despite everyone saying just shave the caps,and i need a better sump from aso ,so atm maybe a basic 600 vac should be ok until i put the other goodies on it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×