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CHESTNUTXE

84DA CROSSFLOW BUILD

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if you pm broken wheel he knows a joint in Brisbane or its in crossflow do's and donts but every shop will have a different theory to hp gains,be prepared to fork out many thousands for a completely sorted head ready to use

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i bought another crossy for $50 will pick up tomorrow unknown year model but has alloy head ,almost complete,good parts on it to muck around with.could be corty motor.

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ok i only saw a picture of it ,hole will be drilled at back for dip stick too yeah ?,i have 3 crossys now:oi can do a kerosine rebuild on one put some rings and bearings in it and sell/spare engine ?

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It should be drilled but with a ball bearing peened in to block it off. Should be able to punch it back out from inside. Don't chuck out the sump, #5 main bolts (they're special studs) or the pickup. Those bits are getting rare now.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

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i got the dizzy back together with new parts and did a test fit with just the black est plug but its still to close imo,should be able to wire it directly to the 3 pins that go up underneath.i6hD9zCK.jpg

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On 7/31/2017 at 5:08 PM, Mustardxf2 said:

Mines just wierd to the three pins but with out the black but just straight up under it

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Yes you could do it like this via flag terminals but it would still not be weather proof as it the point of the caps. In saying that people...I have mine wired in without the weather caps for ohhhhhhhhhhhh like 6 or more years with zero issues and a few car washes but not much rain driving.

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head bolt question,it says on number 13 bolt to put some sealer and only tourque to 75nm i suppose its the bolt that goes down next to the water pump the one with the long hex on it,but what sought of sealer ? silicon ? loc tite ? or anything

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Holden head stud sealer works best. But of late I been using some permatex shit and never had a issue. 

I also wind mine down to full tension. That bolt (stud in my case) was machined down a bit and I stack 4 hardened washers and have never cracked a block. Did it on a 84DA and my current 86DA. Current combo has had the head on and off maybe 10 times or more? 

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tomorrow i will bolt the head on and fit lifters and top end assembly ,i have never done a solid b4,so im gunna take my time and re watch a few vid's on how its done,the last few clevo's i did with the exhaust just opening then ajust intake,then intake almost closed ,then adjust exhaust i think thats how it goes ,but i have had better success with doing rocker assembly at tdc with doing both at the same time,i suppose both ways are good ,just make sure your on the back of the cam.

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Lifters first of course...? Good lube like Joe Gibbs or Penrite Red lube and the absolute best break in oil you can buy.Again Joe Gibbs or Penrite are my choices. If you skimp out on first start up your making the engines chance of longer life shorter than it can be.

 

Did you leave the Inner springs out for start run in ? 

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i usualy buy comp cams break in,i have the small joe gibbs assembly lube,but i dont even have a car to put it in yet,so its gunna sit on the stand for a bit,but latley been thinking about making a start up stand just for the hell of it as it comes in handy when building quite a few motors,also fun to annoy neighbors with no exhaust,nope the head is fully assembled with inners ,i no most recomend taking out the inners for break in,just might do that as i dont want any fuk-ups,will mark the pushrods too ,to make sure they are turning .

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1 hour ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

does anyone no the correct permatex name for the head bolt sealer as autobarn dont have a clue

You mean this stuff? - http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Permatex-High-Performance-Thread-Sealant-50mL/129928

https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-high-performance-thread-sealant/

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