XF/G DOOR HINGE QUESTION

[deankxf 20,266]

i used a 1/2 inch socket from in the inner guard from memory. only ever did it the wrong way(with a spanner) once...

[Mr Polson 10,214]

Ratchet spanners work well

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[CHESTNUTXE 7,299]

im finding myself buying a new socket or tool every few weeks for the correct job ,last week i needed a deep socket for the screw in studs on the crossflow head.

[Free.51 2,717]

Yep thats how you aquire tools over time haha, i think ill just do the unbolt the hinges from the door trick & support it on something while i smack out the old pins, thanx for the tips fellas👍👍

[Free.51 2,717]

Put new pins & bushes in yesterday & a much better striker today now the door is sitting too high & there is a gap where air is getting through near the b pillar. Is is just a matter of loosening off the 4 bolts again to adjust the door?

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[CHESTNUTXE 7,299]

it should be like new but good question

[deankxf 20,266]

when you shut the door without the striker, how do the body lines line up? if they are inline front to back door and the gaps are ok then it should be pretty close. the striker is adjustable in and out, also the 4 hinge bolts in wards and out.and up and down. (plus up and down on any angle on the 3 bolt part of the hinge

 

[CHESTNUTXE 7,299]

when I fit my new door on the ute I'm gunna try something new like shut the door to the car then line up and tighten bolts while the guard is off

[deankxf 20,266]

39 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

when I fit my new door on the ute I'm gunna try something new like shut the door to the car then line up and tighten bolts while the guard is off

is much much easier to do them with the guards off

[Free.51 2,717]

1 hour ago, deankdx said:

when you shut the door without the striker, how do the body lines line up? if they are inline front to back door and the gaps are ok then it should be pretty close. the striker is adjustable in and out, also the 4 hinge bolts in wards and out.and up and down. (plus up and down on any angle on the 3 bolt part of the hinge

 

Havent tried shutting the door without the striker yet Dean but tomorrow after work ill have a play around & see if i can get it spot on, thanks for yor help👍

[RoughXE 6]

On 7/11/2017 at 5:49 PM, deankdx said:

i had an awesome thread with pics of how i fixed it.. pics wont work now.
basically remove hinge, make a plate to sit between the door and hinge and bolt it back together..

welding it would be the best way, but temporary fix lasts longer than a good door..

check the hinge roller actually rolls, otherwise it may have cracked by people opening the door too wide(or wind catching it) ford's idea of a check strap only took about 20 yrs or so to be improved.

 

Hi deankdx, I know this is a 4 yr old thread, but can you give me anymore info on this repair? I'm doing some work on my old rusty xe sedan project and noticed my passenger side door has dropped, at first I thought it was hinge bushes, but upon inspection I notice the door is broken around the bottom hinge mounting area.

It's a budget build and just need to get the door sitting straight again.....

Cheers 

[deankxf 20,266]

4 minutes ago, RoughXE said:

 

Hi deankdx, I know this is a 4 yr old thread, but can you give me anymore info on this repair? I'm doing some work on my old rusty xe sedan project and noticed my passenger side door has dropped, at first I thought it was hinge bushes, but upon inspection I notice the door is broken around the bottom hinge mounting area.

It's a budget build and just need to get the door sitting straight again.....

Cheers 

 

i do have a photo of the first one i did, this i drilled a heap of holes in for plug welding, but it worked so well, i didn't bother plug welding it from memory.

 

[RoughXE 6]

Awesome thanks mate, do u remember how thick the plate was? 

Can you leave the door on, unbolt that hinge and slip it in there? 

[deankxf 20,266]

1 hour ago, RoughXE said:

Awesome thanks mate, do u remember how thick the plate was? 

Can you leave the door on, unbolt that hinge and slip it in there? 

sorry for slow reply, 

 

yes, you can leave the door on if you can get the bolts out.. some are nightmares to undo, especially if they are the later torx bit ones.. i've had to drill the heads off and then replace the bolts. access is easier through the mudgaurd, remove the dust cover by bending 2 tabs straight and yanking it forward.. (wash the dirt out of the sill area and check for rust)
removing the guard is sometimes easier also.

 

the plate would be better if it was thick. you could use 2 LARGE washers with small(bolt sized) holes.. it would do the job.(2 x 50c coins with a hole in them would work even) 
you will likely need to loosen and adjust the 3 bolts on the hinge at the A pillar to compensate for the spacer/washers. depends how the hinge bushes are also

[RoughXE 6]

To easy I might try have a look at what's there today, are all the models torx bits or do some models have bolts? The bushes feel ok from memory, just the door dropped the other day while I was working on it.

I should have some of those penny washers kicking around, I'll see if I've got any thick ones there if not I'll grab some and give that a try first before looking at making a plate, cheers mate .

[deankxf 20,266]

if it works, take some photos and document the process a bit for others, i am going by stuff i did well over 10yrs ago. 

 

[deankxf 20,266]

3 hours ago, RoughXE said:

are all the models torx bits or do some models have bolts?

torx came in around 1988 in the XF ute/van i expect(not sure) but i've had an XE that had been retrofitted with them(suspect the hinges were worn and they got used hinges from the wreckers)

the A pillar nuts are 13mm, can't remember what size the door ones are, suspect also 13mm.  if you accidently dislodge the 3 bolt thing from the A pillar it's not too hard to put back in, just need to remove the kick panel, check for redbacks and hook it back in. 

[dvfalcon 352]

When lining up the doors take
the striker off, I use 2 x 10mm window packers placed on the sill, sit the door on top in position and do up. It puts you in the ball park and adjust from there. A plate like dean made will last for years, if you can make one for inside the door as well so it sandwich the door between. Guard off is the best but just the inner guard will do. Window packers below but at the end of the day anything 10mm thick


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[RoughXE 6]

Awesome cheers lads, I'm going to remove the front guards anyway to attack some rust so that'll work well. I've got those packers at work so even better! 

I'll keep yous updated on how it goes, I've got the door trims already off so might look at sandwiching it to, its a bit of a slow project at the moment with life, kids and work in the middle, but will keep yous in the loop.

[deankxf 20,266]

14 minutes ago, RoughXE said:

I've got the door trims already off so might look at sandwiching it to,

i can't remember what's inside the door but i think it's a plate with captive nuts hung over a hook. 

so you might be able to also make the plate wider in there as dvfalcon said above. i've never done that.

 

few people have cut it out and welded the door section back together, but if you don't have a welder this plate works well enough

[dvfalcon 352]

i can't remember what's inside the door but i think it's a plate with captive nuts hung over a hook. 
so you might be able to also make the plate wider in there as dvfalcon said above. i've never done that.
 
few people have cut it out and welded the door section back together, but if you don't have a welder this plate works well enough

In side the door is like a dog bone type plate capsulated in some retainers with captive nuts to allow the door to move in and out I did remove that.


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