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BobStrop

XE Running issue/34 ADM carb question

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So ive got the ute spitting out black water from the exhaust...apparently its not that big a deal but im still keen on sorting it. In investigating, Ive also noticed a few other things.....

All the hoses seem to be connected alright, Ive replaced the spark plugs, leads test out ok, distributor is ok, fuel line looks alright, air filter is replaced etc. Im waiting on a carb repair kit to arrive and then ill re build it.

I think there may be an obvious issue - the yellow wire going to the choke only has 7V on it (?) and the red wire with it is cut off. I think it should be going to the idle solenoid (which has the lug cut off) and giving 12V? Ill have to check why theres only 7V on the choke but will this idle solenoid be an issue? How exactly does it work? Why would it have been disconnected?

Thanks

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Choke is only meant to have 7V.

Idle solenoid springs outwards into carb when no power is supplied, blocking the idle circuit and stopping any chance of "run on". They're becoming a common failure and not available aftermarket so best thing to do is undo it, cut then of and reinstall.

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i thought XEs were a vacuum idle cut solenoid, have you got a pic of the side of the carby handy?
 

black water from the exhaust when cold would just be condensation with soot.. wouldn't worry about it, bet it doesn't do it when everything is warm(if so, where is it coming from?.. coolant staying full? if so, good.. )

 

 

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Ive taken a few photos but the forum is limiting the size of them to 0.02MB!? You cant make it out at that size?

...coolant staying full? Do you mean the coolant fluid reservoir ? Its not full...could that be a problem?

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14 minutes ago, BobStrop said:

Ive taken a few photos but the forum is limiting the size of them to 0.02MB!? You cant make it out at that size?

...coolant staying full? Do you mean the coolant fluid reservoir ? Its not full...could that be a problem?

nah, the coolant overflow almost never works on old cars as it should.. like actually looking in the radiator.

yeah i used to use photobucket.com to post pics, but its being very troublesome so now i am using https://imgbox.com/

upload it to imgbox, copy image location and paste it into the message

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good work getting the pics working..

yeah its got what i'd call an XF carby(probably 99% same) with the electric fuel cut solenoid, bodge it like Mr Polson suggests above(remove and cut off the plunger)

i'd think unless you are losing coolant, there is no issue with the water in the tailpipe.

 

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Is the plunger the little spike that sits inside and is on the spring of the solenoid? Cut that off? So its not blocking flow?

What does it actually do though?

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8 minutes ago, BobStrop said:

Is the plunger the little spike that sits inside and is on the spring of the solenoid? Cut that off? So its not blocking flow?

What does it actually do though?

when the ignition is on, it powers up that plunger, sucking it back to allow fuel to flow in the idle circuit.. when you turn the ignition off, it shuts fuel off to idle and it wont run on(some call it dieseling, occurs when the hot engine and compression can ignite fuel still being sucked in even when ignition isnt firing)

cutting the tip off will mean it can idle.. (which it shouldn't now.. unless someone has cut it already.. which maybe has, because i thought they had a brass end on them)

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Unscrew the idle solenoid, if the pin hasn't been cut off and there is no power running through it but the car idles at all your carb needs a rebuild. The idle circuit would be blocked.
Buy the major rebuild kit, it has schematics showing how the carb goes back together. Also buy a couple of can of carby cleaner, an old tooth brush to scrub it all down and blast everything and every hole with compressed air. The compressed air is crucial to cleaning out the galleries.

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Righteo...so i reckon it looks like it has been cut (theres nothing really on there apart from a short pin which looks chopped) as it idles no worries.

Ive bought this kit and ive got the Gregorys to put it together so i should be ok (waiting for it to arrive). Will one of those compressed air cans suffice to clean it out?

Im trying to get my head around the valve and idle timing...Ive read alot online and in the manual but i think the manual is describing a slightly different carby to mine?

The fast idle screw is the one against the cam? And the larger screw at the bottom with the spring is the idle speed screw? As you can see, it is all the way in and is not hitting the lever...surely thats not right? Also the third of the three studs in at the top of the housing has broken off which will not stop the cam. Not sure how i can get around that...

 

ZV02l0Uh.jpg

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Can someone give me an explanation as to how the throttle arm and cam works in relation to the chokes and fuel/air mixture? Ive been searching for hours but cant get my head around it still.

Hopefully the carb repair kit arrives tomorrow...

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2 hours ago, Mr Polson said:

 


Look at the front vac tree, two ports look open?

That won't help the idle.


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top one goes to the air cleaner(removed)
middle one is blocked (factory never cut the end off)

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On 24/05/2017 at 1:23 PM, MNTL.XD said:

Cheers, Ive seen that but doesnt really explain the operation of the cam steps etc.

And does anyone know about the idle screw in my photo? Surely it shouldnt be all the way in?

How exactly do i set the correct fuel/air mixture? Im thinking the lingering smell of petrol has something to do with this....

Sorry for all the questions, i really appreciate the help fellas!

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this should help.. the fast idle is set by the choke .. never messed with that, so cant really help

the idle speed screw i reached with my finger and thumb, its not usually tight.

mixture screw i haven't messed with ever

gGqUBmlh.jpg

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Mixture screw is meant to have a blanking plug over it.

Apparently constant adjustment of it can cause damage as it's actually in the a plastic bush which goes brittle with heat and age - and you can potentially end up with the mixture being sucked into the carb.

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19 hours ago, Mr Polson said:

Try this one mate. Hopefully it explains it well enough.

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/7026-Ford-Registered-Technician-Bulletin---34-ADAM-Weber-Carb

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That article is perfect, thanks a million. I thought i had searched all over for any Weber 34 info but never saw that. Big help.

Ill clean it up tomorrow and let you know how i go.

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That article is perfect, thanks a million. I thought i had searched all over for any Weber 34 info but never saw that. Big help.
Ill clean it up tomorrow and let you know how i go.


Only added it last night ;)

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Finally all put back together and seems like its running better...either way it was a good experience.

Im still not sure that its set up correctly but ill keep thinking about it. If anyone from Sydney who knows a bit about them wants to come and give me a hand, let me know what beer you like..

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Over a week later and im still got some issues...

The new spark plugs have all got carbon on them again. What could it be? Are they not getting fired correctly? Maybe i should change the leads? How do i check the ignition coil is outputting the correct voltage??

Still got a strong petrol smell coming from somewhere but cant pin it. And tonight a whole heap of black water came out the exhaust! Cant win. Im regrettably thinking id better get rid of this. Ive loved working on it but i cant enjoy it yet :(

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