deankdx

Dean's Gemini wagon. from barn find to club reg etc

794 posts in this topic

Definitely... Um...expert??

Next time you need to glue cracked plastic like that, use the slow setting araldite and a mesh like flyscreen or plasterboard joining mesh. Rough up the surface and vee out the back of the crack a bit so the glue can get in. Clean with wax n grease remover or similar, then lay on the glue. Drop a section of mesh onto the glued area and push it in with an applicator etc and a bit more glue on top. Leave alone until fully set. Should be job done but always be cautious when fitting as the bastards may crack again if under too much tension.

deankdx likes this

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i have a severe case of "use whats here itis"  my wish list would have been fibreglass matting.. but i haven't got any and wasn't planning to do anything else with it yet.

 

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Just now, 2redrovers said:

Even a scrap of oven weave fabric will work as long as the glue can ooze through it

yeah i did consider other options. i chose the fix it now with whatever is here solution.. its the current trend, no one will be able to tell once its all detailed..

i am betting it will be fine.. even if it cracks its not going anywhere

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grille update..
DONE! .. till it cracks.. then maybe fit the other after painting it black or finding a good one.

even fitted a NOS grille badge that came with the diesel when i bought it..

headlights are clear lense/shaped reflecor.. not sure i like the look yet, but i have been told they work well

XAXmvf5.jpg

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today i was out picking up a reco steering rack and 2 better discs(spares are always handy)

so while out that way stopped in at Campbelfield pick a part. where the ever depleting sole rwd gemini is running out of useful things to offer..

particularly of interest to Me was a bent mudguard i was eying off last time to mess with.. surprising its lower section is still pretty good (better than whats on the wagon i bet)
i plan to treat this guard similar to BGDAVs F100, but definitely different.. i've given Rod(2redrovers) an idea of what i want to do.. so will see if it turns out as planned..

will definitely bring out the comments.. i did get offered a straight guard for $50 that had usual rust, but chose the bent one due to half progress already and bit cheaper($30) it will get some red paint on it.. not sure if i can bring myself to waste colour match paint on it..

 

 

xLHoCof.jpg

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8 minutes ago, 2redrovers said:

Go with off the shelf touch up paint, if it's out a shade or two I reckon it will add to the effect

i'll steal some monza red paint from Dave if i can be bothered setting up the spray gun.. actually.. probably should, can do some touch ups on the XE..

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well todays plan of brakes got postponed again due to stubborn mudguard bolts. the gemini must use the guards as a structural part of the car.. there'd be double the bolts than an X series holding them on. 2 of accessed behind the kick panel and under the dash.. (naturally the under dash ones were pricks, one had a rounded head Just barely good enough to undo with perfect alignment of the socket, and the other had the nut part come off the captive clip thing.. great..

painted most of the quarter panel .still rust on the very lowest part.

had a look at the tag after seeing the shifter area with pop riveted fill panel fitted. suspected it was an auto.. code says yes.. / M40 three speed 'Tri-Matic' (option)

IxMdlBY.jpg

 

 

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rubbed the tailgate down for the last time, and primed over the metal and bog.. let it dry and then got one coat of red on before the can ran out of paint.... one more can will get the rest done.. good enough for now.
 

jD54wzN.jpg

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well,
weekend has passed and there'd normally be an update on this and the F100.. a few distractions interrupted progress..

well, at some point i mentioned i wanted a better bumper.. and other parts no doubt..

came across a gemini panel van that needed to be bought. has the style of bumper i wanted bit bent, but i'll roll with it.
 

bonnet is so rusted, i tied over it so the skin wouldn't peel off on the highway.. even latched down lol..

HoaR4mq.jpg

i got it going.. it was sold as not running, so a bit of a gamble.. been parked 4yrs roughly. bush mechanic for the win.. sanded the points, rotor button, and cranked it over for a while before resorting to the start ya bastard(has no choke assy in the carby) fired up and idled pretty soon after

 

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due to the nut being wrong on one of the brake lines, i damaged the fitting in the flexible hose union.. i could use the panelvan's 36yr old hose to patch it, but will replace every brake line and hose with new stuff.. brakes that work seem overrated when you want to go fast...

the panelvan has pedders front springs, 15" wheels and some other bits and pieces i might want to play with.. rear looks way too low for My liking i didn't notice coloured springs.. ..
motor seemed healthy.. good chance i'll be doing a compression test next visit.. if good, its going in the red wagon as its a rodeo 2litre with a cortina weber on it.

and then i'll decide if its getting a date with a 9" grinder or whether the shell is worth anything at all(has a welded lock diff in it, i'd like to use this.. but not sure i want to die just yet either)

interior is mouldy. not much usable on it at first glance.. seat frame maybe for My daily if not twisted also

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video of the hope its still good "after a 4yr wake up call"  engine.. has a "stage 3" cam as it says in an old ad that came with the car.. not sure what stage 3 is? crow cams website lists one cam, but i had heard of others with different numbers(think the cam in the other head i have is a 2507, and i had heard of a 2508).either way it idles with a slight lope that i initially thought was just running rough(no choke/4yrs of parked in the beach) seems good..

i had thought i'd like to get a permit and take it round the block... but rusted through fuel tank and brakes that need a few pumps to get a pedal aren't going to fit the "safe for highway use" part of the rule for permit.
 

i'll need to rig up a separate fuel container to move around if its not getting the flick soon. cant keep pouring good fuel on the ground.. also a fire risk.

.ideally i'd like to be able to sell the wheels and some other stuff off it to cover the entire cost(BGDAV has claimed the steering wheel for the F100, i had considered selling it for above reason).. still not sure if its worth anything as an almost complete roller  Vs chopped up for parts(most parts are not very saleable.)

 

 

Edited by deankdx
might pay to add the video

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43 minutes ago, 2redrovers said:

Could be a way to make the van more appealing after you pull the 2L out...chuck some mounts in it and call it "set up for Ls conversion"

lf it doesn't fall in half on the hoist.. its good to go..

 

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well..
rocked up this arvo for a quick garage session..

glad i paid part's donor value.. even still i don't think i'd want to use anything under the car. exhaust maybe... but not seeing value elsewhere.

pics speak for themselves

 

under the car is fucked.. ..rust is severe..5yYoJeO.jpg

DUWcnRX.jpg

 

 

 

 

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photobucket will have a lot of haters from this day forward..

anyway..
side cutters and 10 and 12mm spanner got a workout this arvo.. bloody cold outside, think around 6 degrees outside when we packed up.. i expect it will be just as cold when its time to lift the hoist for all the underside stuff in the morning.(down to 1deg at the moment..)

 

HDVmnMQb.jpg

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Well, today was supposed to be rusty parts donor ready for scrap.. usual distractions and priorities meant it's close but not quite ready.(Daves F100 went back on the hoist for a good wash with oven cleaner and some welding done while on the hoist.)

i took the tailgate off due to the hinges being perfect .. pretty sure the the wagon ones have movement. might stash the tailgate

dash is stuck in eleventy million times stronger than a falcon one.. decided that i don't need to remove it not even for practice..

pedal box was simple..3 bolts..unclip brake and clutch cable and pin and brake switch.. done. 5min job.

heater core was the easiest i have ever heard of.. undo hoses.. 2 screws holding the cover on, and slide out the core.. (and move out of the way of the white tail spider that was in there)

external door handles are way advanced compared to XD.. have adjustment in the rod(might take a pic later.) still fail in similar ways.

pulled the fuel tank out mainly so it wouldn't be a fire risk if i start chopping with the grinder.. surprised it wasn't rusted through..

only took 2 pics, was on a mission to get as much done before dark

 

 next time you see surface rust.. and think its just surface rust.... give it a kick... just to be sure..(i was going to remove this door.. .not anymore)
iUgFouxK.jpg

pulling a car apart has to be the best way to figure out how stuff works or to be repaired.
9qrEEvvs.jpg

2redrovers, Outback Jack and Ants like this

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