Ando81 2,949 Posted March 16, 2017 Hi all, just wondering if someone can explain why my digital dash stays fully illuminated sometimes when I start my ute. Sometimes I have to remove one of the plugs from the bottom of the cluster to fix it and sometimes it goes back to normal in a few seconds. Sometimes if I turn the key off and back on again it resets back to normal too. It seems to be doing it more frequently lately. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,231 Posted March 16, 2017 you can have a look in this thread on xfalcon. but its probably cracked solder joints like i fixed .. copied this from my post there. http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/24537-arrrggghhh-need-help-with-my-dash/ fixed the flickering cluster brightness too which was what i was expecting.i pulled the cluster completly to bits, inserted some dust into it Do'h too lol.but it was a cracked solder joint on the small circuit board where that cluster dimmer button is. resoldered. FIXED.i also cleaned the old dust off the LED screens too, and they are much nicer now.heres a pic of the spot of where it was re soldered. 4 Crazy2287, Outback Jack, Ando81 and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,259 Posted March 16, 2017 awsome speed there 188kph ! 2 Outback Jack and thorne reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,260 Posted March 16, 2017 My ZL does that on startup, I'm guessing it's the TEST signal to all the gauges. Only stays on for a few seconds, unlike yours. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted March 16, 2017 Cheers Deankdx, I might have to pull it apart to check the joints. Thanks for the helpful diagram too 2 deankxf and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted March 16, 2017 Sorry bout the double post Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy2287 1,886 Posted March 16, 2017 Yeah, I reworked a dash recently also. I'd say 20% of the solder joints needed re working. Inspect them with a 5x or 10x magnifying glass and a bright light. Before you solder make sure the area ia clean, if not, wipe with a brush or cloth/tissue (like that super cheap toilet paper that kinda halfway between ricepaper and copypaper, or a "kimwipe") and pure ethanol, acetone or for best results use isopropanol. and add a dab of solder flux/resin to the joint before heating and re flowing it. That will give you the best reflow possible without having to add and remove the solder. 4 bear351c, Outback Jack, XFChris and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,260 Posted March 17, 2017 Did the trip meter in the ZL, same thing.......... old joints. I guess all the heat cycling (and 45 degree summers) is to blame. 2 deankxf and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted March 18, 2017 Thanks for all the great tips lads, will get onto it when work isn't so busy and hopefully get some feedback for you all 2 Outback Jack and deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted March 18, 2017 Thanks for all the great tips lads, will get onto it when work isn't so busy and hopefully get some feedback for you all Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Outback Jack 6,352 Posted March 18, 2017 Into her Ando! Hope ya find the culprit.... Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites