CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted May 22, 2017 yeah only takes a few mins to gut the head Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slow250XC 1,512 Posted May 22, 2017 Tube socket and a hammer is faster. No good for putting them back together though haha Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted May 22, 2017 yeah then play find the locks when they go flying 1 Slow250XC reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted May 24, 2017 Perhaps you should have a read of the Aussiespeed website before old mate 'port matches' the intake manifold. My skin crawls when I hear this on an i6 engine. Good way to f..k a great manifold. 2 Valvebouncer and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted May 24, 2017 yeah Aussie speed told me that I told him not to touch the manifold problem atm is cant find stainless single grove valves Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted May 24, 2017 Performance wholesale should have plenty. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted May 24, 2017 nah no one has nuthin in crossflow size I was gunna ask you about it,pw said use a 2v clevo valve but olm8 said hours of work trying to turn them down to fit so I might have to just go with new stainless efi valves ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted May 24, 2017 Yes. You won't find anything of good quality that is direct fit into a crossflow. Well the chev exhaust valves will go in but on the intake, yes you have to turn them down. Welcome to the world of modifying a xflow. Nothing is a simple, bolt on like clevo or chev. You have to use your brain and skills and machine stuff to suit. That's why they are expensive to do. But when they are done right they are a ship load of fun and very rewarding. 1 Valvebouncer reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted May 24, 2017 i have found a buick 1.6 exhaust is that the one you are talking about,and they said at pw,they can supply blank valves to modify Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lord_fahrquhar 2,580 Posted May 25, 2017 Ferrea 1.6" Windsor exhausts ferrea 2.125" che inlets 11/32 f1220P Have brought both recently, and yes my wallet has been packraped. But both are beautiful looking things. 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted May 25, 2017 ok i will check them out today but late yesterday afo we looked at a windsor valve and the assembled height was to short,the head diameter of intake im looking for is about 1.800,the leghnth of the valve is 5.293 you must have done some serious work to make those 2.125's fit Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lord_fahrquhar 2,580 Posted May 25, 2017 They haven't been fitted yet but will need to be turned down to fit 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted May 25, 2017 is the legnth correct,it would save me a lot of hassle trying to find the intakes Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lord_fahrquhar 2,580 Posted May 26, 2017 Valves out of a C1A head In 1.798in head diameter, 5.288in total length from valve face to tip, 0.340in stem diameter Ex 1.505in head diameter, 4.950in total length from valve face to tip, 0.340in stem diameter https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/tfs-51400215/overview/ Brand:Trick Flow Specialties Manufacturer's Part Number:TFS-51400215 Part Type:Valves Product Line:Trick Flow® Replacement Valves Summit Racing Part Number:TFS-51400215 UPC:842645109812 Valve Head Diameter (in):1.600 in. Valve Head Diameter (mm):40.640mm Undercut Stem:Yes Swirl-Polished:Yes Overall Valve Length (in):4.960 in. Overall Valve Length (mm):126.492mm Valve Stem Diameter (in):0.341 in. Valve Stem Diameter (mm):8.66mm Valve Tip Length (in):0.250 in. Valve Tip Length (mm):6.350mm Valve Material:EV8-Z18 stainless steel Lock Groove Quantity:1-groove Lock Groove Style:Conventional Valve Head Style:14 degree dish Quantity:Sold individually. In-Store Pickup:Choose In-store pick-up (OH, GA, NV) on our web site. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted May 26, 2017 ok they look good,just trying to find intakes Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lord_fahrquhar 2,580 Posted May 27, 2017 F1220p these aren't avail from summit or jegs but easily seen on eBay get a good rap rap from Ando so have been leaching all the old xflow threads on here and the other site Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted May 28, 2017 what about the 3 and 4 bolt balancers ,i have my eye on buying a romac steel unit for my build but it says 3 bolt,the crank olm8 is doing had a 4 bolter on the 84da block,powerbond do single pulley as well,will the 3 bolt go on my 84da crank ? or must i use the 4 bolt,i thought i read somewhere once that either can be used ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FORD_MAN 1,026 Posted May 28, 2017 From what I know they have the same snout size. PB1007ST is 3 bolt PB1021ST is 4 bolt Powerbond Street balancer Part number Crank bore Nose diameter Outside diameter PB1007ST 31.74mm 44.45mm 174.5mm PB1021ST 31.71mm 44.45mm 174.5mm Romac 0222 is the part number for 4 bolt http://www.romac.com.au/pdf/Balancer List Pictures 2005.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted May 28, 2017 ok thanks ,but i mean will the 3 bolt one go on a later crank ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted May 28, 2017 OPPPS yep your right i should have looked first ,both are there,just the xf one has 2 pulleys the powerbond has a few different ones as well as im not running air or steer i was just gunna get a single but ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted May 29, 2017 i picked up some of the stuff ol m8 cleaned up and i noticed they had different timing marks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted May 29, 2017 also orderd the exhaust valves 1.6 stainless single groove Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
broken-wheel 659 Posted May 29, 2017 On 25/03/2017 at 2:12 AM, SPArKy_Dave said: My advice, would be to keep that engine complete, for the new owner of the car. Especially if it's all matching numbers - block/head/bolt-on's. Getting an EFI head, would be much better and more efficient, IMO. (use a very late casting if possible, or even a very late Carby head casting) Then send the head to Sean Burns in SA, to be ported/flowed, etc. http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/1868-crossflow-porting-results/ For every day driveability, I'd recommend a turbo personally. Hot NA, means a big cam, which lowers the around-town and in-traffic driveability. A supercharger sucks a fair lot of power, just to turn itself IMO. I'd run thermo's maybe, rather than a mechanical fan, and yeah that pump is the factory fitted one, or at least an OEM Aussie made one. (cast impeller) I'll jump in here and say this, don't bother with EFI heads, the chambers are too small. If you want to make a snappy and very drivable xflow you need to start with a set of pistons with the smallest dish possible and use the unmarked head as it has the biggest chamber and still have some squish for good recovery. This will net quite a bit more torque than the same compression ratio with those big dish pistons and EFI heads. It will also require less timing and make a way more efficient engine. I quite like the unmarked heads and the E2 heads. I would use the unmarked heads for Premium Unleaded and the E2 head for E85 with flat tops. Don't waste money on rods or anything else if you don't spin it astroturfing 6k. Good luck with the build! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
broken-wheel 659 Posted May 29, 2017 On 24/05/2017 at 4:22 PM, ando76 said: Perhaps you should have a read of the Aussiespeed website before old mate 'port matches' the intake manifold. My skin crawls when I hear this on an i6 engine. Good way to f..k a great manifold. Nothing wrong with opening up the ports on the 4bbl manifold if the engine needs it. The 4bbl manifold was probably made for a small 4bbl to keep the airflow high but with a 1.8" valve the curtain outflows the aussie speed 4bbl port by a long shot, enough to choke a 350HP motor, 1mm of porting is enough to liberate quite a bit of flow. Port matching on an flow is stupid, the ports from the face of the head to the vale are so bloody long that even 2-3mm makes fuck all difference. The aussie speed 4bbl manifolds are not as great as one might think. They are essentially a 2bbl manifold with a flange and a bit of sculpting of the flange to the manifold to make it fit. It's way small for a the requirement of a 4bbl carb, say 650 or 700 but if you're planning to keep it under 5.5k then don't touch the manifold and don't go 4bbl, keep it 2bbl and save money Share this post Link to post Share on other sites