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SUPER CHARGER VS TURBO

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Totally agree with xpt. Turbo is way easier, cheaper and will produce more hp and torque than a blower. I've set my shop,ute up for the m90 blower kit that aussiespeed will be doing. Why. 2 reasons. First is purely because it is different. Secondly because I want to use the ute to tow and the grunt off the line will be important. Is it the easiest and cheapest way. No. But I have all the gear for a turbo crossy so why not a blown one. My problem as always is time.

Google 'little italy' for a tough blown crossy.

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Totally agree with xpt. Turbo is way easier, cheaper and will produce more hp and torque than a blower. I've set my shop,ute up for the m90 blower kit that aussiespeed will be doing. Why. 2 reasons. First is purely because it is different. Secondly because I want to use the ute to tow and the grunt off the line will be important. Is it the easiest and cheapest way. No. But I have all the gear for a turbo crossy so why not a blown one. My problem as always is time.

Google 'little italy' for a tough blown crossy.

Oh yeah I totally forgot the Frankenstein build. I stand corrected, there's at least one blown Ford 6 on here. A blown crossy will be right in it's element being used in a tow vehicle, if a little thirsty lol.

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That would be perfect with the 1.06 A/R turbine housing. There's cheaper options which are decent quality, you won't go wrong with a Garrett though.

 

What's your opinion on going a small rear on a standard lower revving engine (ie standardish cam's) especially when using chinese turbo's that are slower to spool up? 

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Oh yeah I totally forgot the Frankenstein build. I stand corrected, there's at least one blown Ford 6 on here. A blown crossy will be right in it's element being used in a tow vehicle, if a little thirsty lol.

It's not finished yet so technically it's still a not going aspo pain in my side. Mark at aussiespeed has all but finished the kits. The blower drives etc etc. using the m90 is going to take some finesse on my part as I want to keep it under the bonnet. Yeah I think it will be a fraction thirsty, it hard to tell.

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the I6 is more suited to turbo, long stoke with bucket loads of torque down low and the right airflow for a turbo application but a roots blower is cool too, specially with a cam and carb on top, sometimes the silly things make you grin more than the general concensus 

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What's your opinion on going a small rear on a standard lower revving engine (ie standardish cam's) especially when using chinese turbo's that are slower to spool up? 

fuck the Garret or Chinese ... HX40 for the win, cheap, spools plenty fast, costs under $100 to rebuild and will outlast any Garret or the coke can Chinese ones 

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What's your opinion on going a small rear on a standard lower revving engine (ie standardish cam's) especially when using chinese turbo's that are slower to spool up?

 

It's hard to say, if it's a decent Chinese copy with the same wheel sizes as the Garrett gt3582r, it should be reasonably close in spool time. I kind of like having a bit of rev range above idle to putt around off boost when you aren't giving it stick. Given that you have 250 cubes of goodness pushing you around, off boost performance is good and can spool even quite a large turbo without too much lag. Spooling up a GT3582R with the largest 1.06ar housing isn't a problem. Ford went with the 1.06 on the BA-BF XR6T and they come on boost in the low 2000RPM range from memory which is ideal for me even with the smaller rev range of the xflow. Going smaller on the turbine housing would bring the boost threshold lower (when it comes on boost) and choke top end power.

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+1 for 6 boost if you are after all out performance. They can't be beat. If budget is an issue, just scan FB swap and sell sites as they do come up often. I got my snort Performance manifold with a Chinese turbo for $400 off gumtree. Off loaded the turbo for $200 so it ended up being very cheap. Having said that you could make something that worked well enough for a low boost low budget build for next to nothing if you are handy with a mig.

 

Intercooling is a good thing but really only necessary when you start pushing the boost, or you live in far North Queensland where it's stupid hot most of the time. But the gear is cheap,enough so why wouldn't you do it.

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Intercooling is a good thing but really only necessary when you start pushing the boost, or you live in far North Queensland where it's stupid hot most of the time. But the gear is cheap,enough so why wouldn't you do it.

 

What boost limit, would you set for non-intercooled?

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personally I think when you are getting above 10psi I reckon it's time. You have to factor in the "some is good - now I want more factor"

You know how it goes. That 10 feels nice - lets go 14, 18 boom. Of course proper tune comes into it here and that's probably where a lot of home grown turbo set ups fall over.

Money is spent on all the bits, if it's auto - then a nice full manual box and then right at the end there is no money left for the thing that's actually going to make or break the set up. A proper dyno tune. Road tunes and auto tune are fine for base maps but when your up the business end (where stuff usually goes to s..t) you just can't beat a Dyno.

Of course that's only my personal opinion. Like everything - and particularly when you talk about boost, everyone has their own ideas. Factor in fuel type as well in that level. Alcohol based fuels bring in a whole different set of rules. Cooler inlet temps help in all applications so it's probably a personal preference thing. Underbonnet clearances and even the intake manifold position and design also need to be considered.

I'll say this tho - if your lumping for a 6boost manifold, you'd be looking at the upper end of performance so intercooler would be mandatory

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with my next xe project is it easyer to not have p/s and a/c as there will be more room to play with,im planning on building a GRAND PRIX look-alike,i figure its going to be cheaper going a aftermarket turbo system than the original gear fitted to that model as its quite collectable and i always like buying new stuff,so it seems for a street driven car 10psi is plenty and may as well fit a intercooler but now what about an intake manifold ? with a carby i assume .

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with my next xe project is it easyer to not have p/s and a/c as there will be more room to play with,im planning on building a GRAND PRIX look-alike,i figure its going to be cheaper going a aftermarket turbo system than the original gear fitted to that model as its quite collectable and i always like buying new stuff,so it seems for a street driven car 10psi is plenty and may as well fit a intercooler but now what about an intake manifold ? with a carby i assume .

 

If you're not going for the original look under the bonnet....... go for straight gas.

Gas loves boost, and is usually quite cheap to set up - compared with carby or EFI.

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I spoke to a bloke at a car show over the weekend with a XE gas research xflow turbo. Stock motor, only valve springs. XE mech ignition with redline manifold, Steam pipe runner turbo manifold and t66 turbo( looked ebay spec). Made a safe 180kw at the wheels. Told to upgrade his ignition and retune.   

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I spoke to a bloke at a car show over the weekend with a XE gas research xflow turbo. Stock motor, only valve springs. XE mech ignition with redline manifold, Steam pipe runner turbo manifold and t66 turbo( looked ebay spec). Made a safe 180kw at the wheels. Told to upgrade his ignition and retune.   

 

180rwkw is nice but NA can make that quite easily, if you go Turbo you might as well aim for at least 300rwkw or just drop a cleveland in and enjoy 

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