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Ignition issues

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Have just replaced the ignition coil on the xd (302 Cleveland) from a Bosch GT40 to a Bosch MEC717.

 

Car started first pop and was idling really well (best it has sounded since i've owned the car!).

 

About 10 min's later it started hunting for revs then died.

 

Tried to start it and it now won't fire!

 

Turns over fine but just doesn't seem to have any spark..swapped the old coil back in and same issue.

 

Also noticed that the voltage guage on the dash is now showing 0..wtf?

 

Left it at that as I was on my way out and went back to it the following day..now I don't have any indicators..again,wtf??

 

All other dials/lights/horn etc...work..any ideas please?

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Bosch GT40 and GT40R coils are for points ignition. They'll cause voltage (9-10 volts or so due to the ballest resister inside the coil) as points only needs 9 to 10 volts to work. The module on the side of the distributor could be on its way out so i would recommend replacing it. Wont need to pull the distributor out to replace it.

 

As for the indicators i can only think that it could be a dodgy earth or the flasher can unit is supect.

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check the wiring connections as i had a similar problem once,im usung the 717 also with a e bay dizzy all went together very easy,contact dsm motorsports at harris park in sydney he makes and sells all that clevo gear.

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MEC717 work well, used them on my Clevo's. As stated, the 'R' in GT40R, is to be used with a ballast resistor and points. Assume you've got electronic dizzy?

 

Prob be the ign module. I'd say indicators are just a coincidence. Low battery from cranking over.?

 

Dont know much about the dizzy you linked, but, if it sounds to good to be true, it's probably too cheap to be good,  :)

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MEC717 work well, used them on my Clevo's. As stated, the 'R' in GT40R, is to be used with a ballast resistor and points. Assume you've got electronic dizzy?

 

Prob be the ign module. I'd say indicators are just a coincidence. Low battery from cranking over.?

 

Dont know much about the dizzy you linked, but, if it sounds to good to be true, it's probably too cheap to be good,  :)

 

yeah..electric distributor.

 

battery has a full charge.

 

the plot thickens!!..took the coil off and it actually has the model number HEC715 which is for a Ford Telstar 2.0l (1985-87 or Nissan Bluebird 2.0l (1983-85)...wtf???

 

the other number on the sticker on the coil itself matches the one on the outside of the box which also has MEC717 underneath it..totally confused!

 

have taken back to the auto shop and they have ordered me a new one so will see what happens when it arrives Monday or Tuesday.

 

I have real issues trying to upload photo's on here (keeps telling me I can only upload files upto 121kbs which are tiny!!)

 

anywho!..will try and see if i get one of these and see if I can get the whole ignition system tidied up.

 

http://www.sparkshop.co.nz/Catalogue/Product/Product/40-364

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716 is female and 717 is male i think,i have been through this as well,the problem is these parts places just give it to you because they think ah they all work the same just different numbers,,i sent mine back as well it was for late model mitsubishi,inow have the correct 717,

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716 is female and 717 is male i think,i have been through this as well,the problem is these parts places just give it to you because they think ah they all work the same just different numbers,,i sent mine back as well it was for late model mitsubishi,inow have the correct 717,

717 is the female,standard connection..718 the male connector for the HEI style leads.

 

http://www.sparkshop.co.nz/Catalogue/Product/Product/69MEC717

 

I think my main problem is the whole ignition setup is all a bit shit!!

 

here's a link to my Flickr page and a pic of the engine bay..you will see what I mean!

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/82713055@N08/32449537050/in/dateposted-public/

Edited by ```

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 The module on the side of the distributor could be on its way out so i would recommend replacing it.

 

no module on the side of the distributor

 

am thinking it has a seperate ignition module (far left of picture) and am not sure what the silver box is/does on the drivers side shock tower (I am no expert!)?

 

turns out the ignition coil is the correct one,just labelled wrong..auto parts shop have tested and has same resistance etc.. as the MEC717

 

sorry I am having to add a link to the pic, can't upload anything larger than 121kbs which is miniscule!!

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/82713055@N08/32865926116/in/dateposted-public/

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Coil looks different to my MEC 717, thing just above it looks like starter solenoid. Silver box looks like an energy polarizer...... :blink:

 

Sorry mate, not helping..

 

definitely MEC717..is a newer version and a different shape to the older ones.

 

http://www.sparkshop.co.nz/Catalogue/Product/Product/69MEC717

 

do you think if I went back to a Bosch electronic distributor with the ignition module built into it I could do away with the other bits on the system ie. the 'starter solinoid and energy polarizer'?

 

really want to tidy the whole thing up but am certainly no electronics expert (infact,quite the opposite!!).

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You would have to change the starter motor for a Bosch type one, (with a solenoid piggy backed on top) before you could lose the other. 

Yours looks like it has the old 'rat-trap' or 'clapper' type, so will have no solenoid on the actual starter.  I actually prefer these, as I've found them more reliable, in the long run. They are more $$ though.

 

The original Bosch dizzy just has 2 wires. If you find an old one, get it overhauled and regraphed for your engine. 

 

All takes money, but worth it for reliability, and originality.

 

Just my thoughts.  ;)

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So I have my new distributor to fit..what type of grease do I put on the gear on the shaft?

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Ok..so I got a new Bosch distributor with a built in ignition module and got rid of the old setup.

Put what i thought was the old starter solenoid back on, new plug leads and success!

Took it for a drive and whilst it drove ok it still needs sorting out (timing etc..)

Parked it in the garage until I could get it to a work shop to sort it out for me.

My son came to visit and hadn't seen it running for quite a while so I tried to start it up..took a couple of cranks and fored but then cut out (oh the joys of no choke).

So tried to start it up again and it wouldn't fire but the starter just kept on turning even whith the ignition off!!!

Had to pull the battery leads to stop it from cranking over.

Any ideas as to what went wrong?

this is how the setup now looks with what I assume is the starter solenoid on the drivers side shock tower?

35144750173_70f5a17fcc_h.jpg

35144743543_52d9f9e909_h.jpg

35144740373_ce824f5c11_h.jpg

 

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Either the contacts inside the solenoid arched and welded itself together or there is something wrong with the ignition switch.
If you pull that green wire off when it's stuck cranking and it stops, it's the ignition barrel.
OR
If you give the solenoid a whack with a screwdriver when stuck cranking and it cuts out it's the solenoid

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On 16/07/2017 at 9:30 PM, Valvebouncer said:

Either the contacts inside the solenoid arched and welded itself together or there is something wrong with the ignition switch.
If you pull that green wire off when it's stuck cranking and it stops, it's the ignition barrel.
OR
If you give the solenoid a whack with a screwdriver when stuck cranking and it cuts out it's the solenoid

I have a new starter solenoid I could fit..might give it a try and see what happens.

Are these any good?

35913013176_c05d0bfda9_h.jpg

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18 hours ago, bear351c said:

Yep, thats the one. Fitted to all the old Clevo's.  Mounts under the battery tray, or next to shock tower, usually.

cheers..will give it a go and see if it solves the problem.

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