Give me a shopping list - XG turbo ute

[hendrixhc 10,918]

Ive been toying around with the idea of chucking a snail on the ute cause basically its slow as fuck and well it would be a lot more fun to drive.

 

Ive sourced an EL computer to suit the engine as it allows for better tuning with a J3 chip.

 

Im also in the process of getting an AU engine cause ive read the bottom ends are better and it means i can build up the engine while keeping the ute on the road,

 

Now im not interested in a high budget build but i am not likely to do it on the cheap either. Only thing is i have no idea what way to go with a parts list so i asked my learned colleagues to add some advice here to point me in the right direction.

 

I do know there will be some braided line, shiny allloy intercooler piping and the odd aeroflow fitting but other than that who knows - all a learning curve.

 

 

[Lord_fahrquhar 2,580]

James

 

Snort performance manifold

 

Walboro 255

 

Cooler

 

3" stainless piping

 

T3-t4 or similar

 

El Comp I'm not sure the maf will be good for boost

 

The ute manifold would be fine

[Lord_fahrquhar 2,580]

Keep the au bottom handy and see if you can get a leg out of the block on the xg one

[JoshXH 42]

Can't help you with an exact shopping list, but basic Borg-Warner hairdryers are cheap

http://gcg.com.au/petrol-performance/performance-4/turbochargers-borg-warner/borg-warner-s200sx-turbocharger-detail

http://gcg.com.au/petrol-performance/performance-4/turbochargers-borg-warner/borg-warner-s300sx3-s360-turbocharger-1-detail

[scottly 475]

I'm pretty sure there is a face book page, a guy makes cheap kits I can't remember the name of it some one else here might know?

[hendrixhc 10,918]

Is that the J pipe thing for the stock manifold for bout $395.?

[hendrixhc 10,918]

First part bought today - AU engine complete!

[scottly 475]

That sounds wright but I'm still a little unsure I remember it being a kit!! Au motors are a kick ass for boost should be a fun project

[blu xe 825]

Mate of mine has one of the cheapy kits with the up pipe set up on an el xr6. Made 300rwhp with the supplied generic tune without the inter cooler hooked up yet and only low boost. Went to the drags and ran a 13 flat at 112mph on way to skinny street rubber to get any form of traction. Not a bad effort I thought for a thrown together non intercooled kit that cost him about 3 grand that hasn't had a proper tune yet. Oh and a 50 shot of NOS to help it off the line which probably hindered it come to think of it traction wise. He's intercooling it shortly and turning up the boost once it had some dyno time to sort it out.

[hendrixhc 10,918]

Im thinking with the AU motor of stripping it down, getting the block tanked - cleaned and checked, honed if necesary and reassembling it with new rings, oil pump and gaskets.

 

Head will get checked, surfaced and up the valve spring pressures and a cam upgrade.

 

Ive been told the log manifold off the XG is the way to go with boost, is this correct?

[Thom 6,650]

Log manifold makes intercooler packaging easier make sure you use a genuine au head gasket and bolts a vernier timing set is a good idea as well, if you track down a au e gas engine they have better rods I'd send ando a message about an oil pump and someone who's played around with turbos more than me may make a suggestion on changing the ring gap if it for a boosted application, series 1 xr6 heads were non vct had a bit better port design and had larger exhaust valves you may find one in a fairmont ghia, 6 cyl Fairlane or xr6 at a wrecker if you're lucky

[slydog 7,873]

First thing...if you have ball's ? Build a man's engine...if not,put a turbo on it.

 

 

Just playing. Exciting news bro,not just a stocko work ute all the sudden and something not seen all that often. Good luck cuzzy,I'll be subscribing.   

[XPT 673]

Buy a header flange, a T3 flange(depending on turbo choice), some sched 40 1-1/2" steam pipe bends, 4 tees and about half a metre of straight pipe, make yourself a log manifold with a Mig.You should be able to do the manifold for about $150. I'm happy to run you through it, it's a piece of piss.

 

A good second hand Garrett gt3582r from an xr6T, sized perfectly with it's 1.06 ar turbine housing and it's internal wastegate for simplicity.

Second option would be a Holset HX40 which are available with an internal wastegate, if you have to plumb in an external wastegate it's not hard to do. There are many options for turbos, you can probably go a cheap Chinese copy and be fine your wallet is the limit.

 

Some Bosch green 42lb (440cc) injectors will do the job easily, or you could get a set from the wreckers out of an L67 supercharged V6 Dunnydore (36lb) and have them serviced. The stock fuel pressure reg should be fine, Walbro 255lph in tank pump will be fine.

You should get a pile of 3" mild steel exhaust tube mandrel bends for both the exhaust and intercooler piping and a 500mm length of 3" silicone hose for joining your intercooler pipe.

With the engine out and pulled down you should drill & tap your sump for the turbo oil return above the oil level obviously. I'd go for -10 AN minimum for oil drain. You can tee off the turbo oil feed from the oil pressure switch. If going with a water cooled turbo which the gt3582 is you can run it from before the heater tap and back into the heater return.

A cheap electronic boost controller would also be worthwhile. If going the btr auto I'd do the "shift kit" mod to firm up the shifts and run a decent oil cooler. Engine management is up to your wallet, a J3 chip and 10PSI would be a lot of fun, it just limits you if you get a bit greedy later on.

 

That's the most of it I think

[hendrixhc 10,918]

Thanks XPT. plenty of advice there.

 

I was thinking of making my own exhaust manifold. I have tracked all the bits down on ebay already!

 

Was just tossing up ( not off) whether or not i could it it. Wast sure if i needed to have all 6 runners of equal length.

[hendrixhc 10,918]

First thing...if you have ball's ? Build a man's engine...if not,put a turbo on it.

   

 

 

You mean a Clevo - yeah got 2 of those already!

[XPT 673]

Thanks XPT. plenty of advice there.

 

I was thinking of making my own exhaust manifold. I have tracked all the bits down on ebay already!

 

Was just tossing up ( not off) whether or not i could it it. Wast sure if i needed to have all 6 runners of equal length.

For a street car a log manifold is fine, equal length manifolds have their place, but in this case not needed . Remember the factory xr6t cast manifold is a log and can support over 400rwkw. If you can weld half decent you'll be fine. You can get the steam pipe bits from Blackwoods or a steel supplier, you should be able to buy a laser cut header flange from an exhaust shop.

[FORD_MAN 1,026]

to compere pricing I've found ECS engines fairly good for exhaust prices,

http://www.ecsengines.com.au/extractor-header-flange-plate-ford-ea-au-6-cyl-mil

http://www.ecsengines.com.au/exhaust-manifold-pipe-products/?rf=va&va=224

 

Spoolin Boost make the cast J pipe to suit stock manifold, look them up on facebook

[hendrixhc 10,918]

I recon i could weld up the manifold ok.

 

Something like this would work!

 

[slydog 7,873]

My god who welded that ? It's the best welding I've ever seen !

[LJDB 103]

Im planning on doing the same with a xflow. I have ordered steam pipe/buttweld from blackwoods delivered to my door. 2 2.5" short radius 90 degree bends $32. Il probably just get a 2.5" 90 degree bend welded just above the collector and use the original outlet for an external waste gate location depending on what type of turbo or block it off. The xflow outlet is between 2 and 3 on the manifold not toward the rear like on a e series.

The mob that make the j pipe kits are called spoolinboost and they are on facebook, They sell complete kits for falcons.

I spent a day walking around pick a part with a bosch fuel injector part number list and found Saab turbo injectors are the same as xflow and flow 32lbs. So il be using them, problem is they are a 4 cylinder so u need 2 cars.

Good aftermarket Fuel pumps and adjustable regs can be found cheap on JDM pages and similar turbo sites. I hope to use quality on the fuel system and not go overboard with the tune to make hopefully make it last.

Il also be using a el ecu with J3.

XR6t parts are easy to find also for stuff like intercoolers ect.

[Lord_fahrquhar 2,580]

Fucking awesome penetration on those welds.

 

It's like having sex and bashing the dick around the hole and not getting a decent plunge in

[hendrixhc 10,918]

Any opinions on which way the T3 flange should sit - vertical or horizontal?

[hendrixhc 10,918]

I found this article on the Spoolinboost page and thought it might be worth copying to preserve for for use

 

Making the stock BTR falcon auto live with boost and increased power.

 

 

The Btr Auto fitted to ea-au is a much under rated box. With a few basic mods they are happy holding over 300rwkw. We have even put down 430rwkw with an internally stock ef trans. The two biggest killers are heat and slipping which causes more heat, keep these two things in check and you will have a happy trans.

 

For fluid temperature control run a big trans cooler with lots of airflow to it. The stock radiator trans cooler just dosnt cut it. Frequent oil changes are also a good idea, especially after dyno work as the oil gets very hot.

 

The biggest issue is slipping on gear changes, this will kill a good trans quickly. The factory trans tune gives soft shifts to enhance comfort. As soon as more power is put through the car the auto will slip noticeably on changes until it gets to the point of hitting the rev limiter before shifts occur. Again this is caused from the factory tune commanding low trans pressures for a gentle shift. Even 200rwkw will bounce off the limiter 2-3 times before shifting. This is due to slippage between the change. You can modify the signal to s5 solonoid via J3 tuning or common resistor shift kit setup. This will help marginally but is still no were near enough line pressure in our opinion. The next option is to delete s3/s4 solonoids which gives full line pressure all the time and is the only way to make them hold decent power.

 

Firstly this is not our idea full credit goes to Turbotrana on the ford forums. We have been doing this mod for 4 years with good results. Shifts are always crisp and instant, the downside being that driving around normally the shifts are a bit rough but once you learn how to drive it the shifts are acceptable and well worth it. We havnt tried this but it may be possible to use a 5 pin relay to trigger via boost switch so full line pressure is only used under full throttle.

 

To set it up all you need to do is cut the signal wires going to s3 and s4 and wire them to dummy solnoids or resistors so the ecu dosnt go into limp home mode and stick in 3rd. It basically thinks its still controlling the solonoids in the gearbox but its just controlling the ones wired to the outside of it. The solonoids in the trans are left in untouched. On an ef the wires are the yellow wire with green stripe and pink wire with yellow stripe and brown dots. Both wires are next to each other at the bottom of the round plug on the side of the trans. They can be reconnected at any time to go back to the factory tune peramiters. Sorry for the poor quality photos.

 

 

[XPT 673]

Yep that's the shift mod I was talking about. I reckon model your manifold off the factory XR6T which sits it vertically. If you're going to get the gt3582r turbo from the xr6t then you won't have to reclock the housings or muck around with the actuator rod which can be a pain. Also means less bends. One thing I will say is try to make the manifold so that the front/back 3 cylinders are split into 2 banks and then merged at the turbo flange. There are log manifolds that basically have all 6 cylinders going into one pipe with the front and back exhaust pulses flowing against each other, and then shoving a flange somewhere on the side of the log, yeah it would make boost but it's far from the best design.

[hendrixhc 10,918]

I was looking at their J pipe kit which includes everything for $2k. That might be a good option.