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bear351c

ZL or XF front disc pad replacement.

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First up, find a hard, flat surface and after loosening the wheel nuts, jack up the front of your beloved beast, and rest it on some jack stands.

If you have a dirt drive, borrow your neighbours concrete, when they go to work, should only take you an hour...

 

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You'll need some lock wire, a 19 and 21 mm socket, a G-clamp, some pliers, a little tube of Loctite,  Oh....and some new pads, of course....duh.!

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Rip the snowie off, and gaze in wide, eyed wonder at the 1980's technology from FoMoCo.......

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Bit hard to see, but, you must remove this locking wire from the 2 caliper bolts. If you dont......good luck trying to get the socket on.!

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21mm socket here.....

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This is a bolt.

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19mm socket on here, and push down. This is the passenger side.

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Here they is.  The blue stuff is medium strength Loctite. Still one of the best products ever made. (Shameless plug)

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Lift the caliper off, it will be tight, due to the lip on the edge of the rotor.

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Now it's off, rest it on the suspension arm. Try not to let it hang from the hydraulic hose.

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Hmmm,...says Bear. Wonder what that funny grinding noise is..? Well, numpty, it's this.........

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Make sure the slide pins are free and glide back and forth. Also check the rubber boots are in good nick, when you pull the bracket off.

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Separate the 2 pieces, clean and lube the slide pins.

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Throw a socket in the guts of the piston. This will save you winding the G-clamp for 3 minutes.......

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Do some physical exercise...........

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Slowly push the piston back into it's housing. You will feel it get tight, when it hits the bottom. It will almost be flush.

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NOTE:  Check your brake fluid reservoir. If the pads are badly worn down, like mine, someone should have topped up the fluid. As the piston gets pushed closer and closer to the disc rotor, more fluid is needed behind it. When you push both pistons back in, all the way, it will overflow the resevoir, on the booster.

 

Nice new bits, you can see the rusty marks where the old pads were.

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Again, make sure the dust boots go on correctly.

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Check for cracks, or perished rubbers. 

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These pads are DB1075 Bendix, the anti rattle spring goes in the top of the caliper, and you need to push them down to install the pads.

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Apply a drop of Loctite blue, and Re torque the bolts. Then put on some more lock wire. Doesn't matter what type, just as long as it fits in the holes in the bolt heads. The Loctite and torque setting should hold everything. It's just an added safety mechanism.

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Twist the 2 ends together with pliers, and cut off the excess. 

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Shove the snowie back on, and gently pump the brake pedal, to allow the pistons to settle against the rotor.

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Test drive..!!

 

20 - 30 slow and easy applications of the brake, to bed them in.

 

I'll be getting the mobile disc machining guys out, soon. The disc pad backing plate has scored the rotor, on the back of the passenger side.

Need to get to work on the morrow.....

 

Have fun, enjoy working on your Ford. They dont make them like that anymore.   :lol:

 

Bear.

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pretty sure i use a 3/4 and 13/16 socket on those bolts..(got a pic of your tool box, looks the metric version of mine if its only metric?)
could add to take a look at the possibly 35 year old brake hoses in the process also.. even My XG ones are a bit old at 20yrs (assuming originals)

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pretty sure i use a 3/4 and 13/16 socket on those bolts..(got a pic of your tool box, looks the metric version of mine if its only metric?)

could add to take a look at the possibly 35 year old brake hoses in the process also.. even My XG ones are a bit old at 20yrs (assuming originals)

 

Mines half 'n' half, 'cos i'm old.......  Left side is A/F, right is Metric. 1/2" drive at the top, and 1/4" at the front. Had it since I was an apprentice, back when Sidchrome were made in Australia. Not that polished shiny shit, that slips out of your hands if they're covered in oil....

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Mines half 'n' half, 'cos i'm old.......  Left side is A/F, right is Metric. 1/2" drive at the top, and 1/4" at the front. Had it since I was an apprentice, back when Sidchrome were made in Australia. Not that polished shiny shit, that slips out of your hands if they're covered in oil....

mine is a mostly original old set, had a few replacements over the years.. imperial 1/2" drive only. over the years i have bought single metric sockets as needed, i should have just bought the same set in metric(i bought this set from cash converters to replace my apprentice (4 weeks pay)bought cantilever tool box set with metric and imperial ..mate begged me to sell it to him for cost price when he had borrowed it(suspected he hocked it for instant cash and then paid me back when it was gone)

 

cant do anything without tools.. wish i had the original set, was still portable(heavy) but had near everything needed in it

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Great article bear, i took my calipers off a year ago and couldn't remember which side the bleeder went on so this helped a lot haha.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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