gerg

The Gergwagon Revamp

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5 minutes ago, 2redrovers said:

Nah Dean, acrylic's not that bad...just knock it back with 36# and it'll come right off.. easyemoji106.png

i'm good with 40grit flap discs on the grinder... might need a guide coat for clear though

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now you'll see how much harder clear is to sand compared to undercoat... got a power sander? 
Yeah it's the "Armstrong" brand

But it does have quite a bit of peel in it. No matter what gun I tried... 1.4, 1.7, my one that I gergified and I punched out to 2.0 all gave varying degrees of peel.

That's with or without retarder, increasing thinner, playing with pressures, fluid, air, fan, poking my tongue out, standing on my head, I tried everything until I ran out of paint.

I put it down to a combination of warm weather, cheap guns, my inexperience, and It just being a characteristic of acrylics.

I'm only wet sanding down to the swage line so it's not too bad. The rest I'm going to just buff.

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do a buff on a section you plan to wet sand first, i think you'll find it will leave the shallows of the peel still dull.. (this is what mine did at least) 
if you have tons of clear, you could guide coat it say in undercoat(easy to see and sand) and rip into it with 1200 see how bad it is (away from edges)
i'm not a painter and never will be, but when i was wet rubbing the clear it was too hard to see how far i'd gone untill i guide coated it. 
happy to be corrected , and looking forward to it to be honest. 

Edited by deankdx
edited incase it confuses someone in 10yrs or so
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yeah we want skids,add some rubber into the basecoat b4 putting the clear
Lol preserve the shreds of tyre stuck to the guards forever... Bogan styling complete

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do a buff on a section you plan to wet sand first, i think you'll find it will leave the shallows of the peel still dull.. (this is what mine did at least) 
if you have tons of clear, you could guide coat it say in undercoat(easy to see and sand) and rip into it with say 600 or even 400 (away from edges) to get it flat faster. 
i'm not a painter and never will be, but when i was wet rubbing the clear it was too hard to see how far i'd gone untill i guide coated it. 
happy to be corrected , and looking forward to it to be honest. 


Good advice there, though first I might try some 1200 while it's still nice and soft, then step up to 2000 before buffing.

I know what you mean by leaving the valleys behind. It's like cutting the tops off the little mountains and can make it look even worse.

Re: 400 grit, I'm not confident that 4 litres of clear is thick enough to go that aggressive in any case. I don't want to go out and buy more paint either. I just need to make do with what I have. I have to keep reminding myself that it's not a show car and not to get bogged down in the details.

I think 800 is as course as I'll go when blocking the clear down. I did an in-between sand with the 800 and I could definitely feel through the paper when the peel was gone. I might use this method and see how I go.

The guidecoat idea is ingenious but I just can't bring myself to slap a different colour over my nice new clear. Just seems wrong to me. Maybe with a bit more experience I could accept it.

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mt druit was the original bogan town of sydney,and we used to call a car painted in primer (mt druit metlic lol):wacko:
I thought only Sydneysiders knew about the Druitt... Or Mounty County... Or 2770 represent

(all could possibly be tattooed on one's chest or sleeve, or forehead if you're hardcore)

I used to live there BTW

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Acrylic takes longer to dry if i was you i would let it dry a week so it hardends up then start with your 8 hundy with plenty detergent then 1000 and so on,i only use 2k these days as its good enough off the gun.

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Use the black graphite powder guidecoat, it does work when its wet too. Start sanding with 1200 wet, I usually use hot water with a little detergent. Leave the paper to soak in the bucket until you need it to keep it a bit soft. A firm but flexible sanding block, keep it clean and uniform. Drop down to 800# if needed but the scratches will take effort to get rid of.

Use fluorescent light to show everything easily. I used the side of my sanding block to squeegee the water off and show the peel left behind, keep going till happy.

Good quality lambs wool buff pad is supposed to be best on initial work. Waffle pads work well too.

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Acrylic takes longer to dry if i was you i would let it dry a week so it hardends up then start with your 8 hundy with plenty detergent then 1000 and so on,i only use 2k these days as its good enough off the gun.

What he said... leave it as long as you can stand to let it shrink and harden up. I've done it on reasonably fresh acrylic and you can overdo it and chase your tail a bit. Scratches go deeper than you intend.
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I grew up in blacktown and the hills district
Wow small world. I grew up in Quakers Hill but my first house was in Whalan.

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Acrylic takes longer to dry if i was you i would let it dry a week so it hardends up then start with your 8 hundy with plenty detergent then 1000 and so on,i only use 2k these days as its good enough off the gun.

What he said... leave it as long as you can stand to let it shrink and harden up. I've done it on reasonably fresh acrylic and you can overdo it and chase your tail a bit. Scratches go deeper than you intend.
Ok cheers I'll let it sit for a bit. Plenty of other things to get on with anyway. Oh and I still need to finish the beaver panel

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A tip I picked up and should of used is put some masking tape on all the sharp edges and corners so you don't sand through the clear. 

I'd also go through all the grades of paper,  so if you start at 800 do 1200 1500 2000 then 2500. Might need to go to a paint shop to get 2500. I'd even get 3000 if they have it. My biggest problem has always been getting all the scratches out. 

Looks fantastic already. 

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On ‎4‎/‎02‎/‎2018 at 10:03 PM, gerg said:

Borrowed some guns off a mate who got them as a set from Supercheap. Blackridge or something is the brand. Has a 0.8 touch-up gun and 2 identical top-feed guns with 1.4 and 1.7 tips. He rates them quite well as far as cheapies go so i take his word for it. One thing I noticed was that the fan doesn't adjust as wide as on some better quality guns. Probably better than my $30 Craftright from Bunnings lol


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HI Gerg

I have the Supercheap gun set the same as yours and found when spraying the father in laws Ford Trade truck cab, I had tons of orange peel, So much so after 3 coats we left it for a week came back and gave it a rub back and clean, then used a Star S770 suction gun I bought at a garage sale, So much better then the supercheap gravity fed guns. All adjustments worked (Fan, Flow and Pressure). Colour laid on better and seemed to be thicker as well without runs.

 

Bit late now but next time give me a shout and you can borrow it.

 

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