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LJDB

EFI Xflow with EL ecu

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Yeah my car is a ghia with the digital dash. 
 

Above i read it as the ECT sensor, TPS, knock and ISC valve would work fine with the EL computer, only needing to swap the vane meter for Air temp and HEGO and MAP sensor. 
the wiring pinout is the same xf to EL for EFi cars. And there is a lot of redundant features of the EL computer i wont need in the XF 

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You are probably correct in regards to the sensors. One thing on the knock sensor is xflows that came with a knock sensor in the head bolt also have a slightly different rocker cover with extra clearance to suit. So if you adding it you need to allow for that. 

It's all pretty straight forward once you have it all out infront of you. Even my corty had the same colour wires as el for some things.

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3 hours ago, LJDB said:

You are probably correct in regards to the sensors. One thing on the knock sensor is xflows that came with a knock sensor in the head bolt also have a slightly different rocker cover with extra clearance to suit. So if you adding it you need to allow for that. 

It's all pretty straight forward once you have it all out infront of you. Even my corty had the same colour wires as el for some things.

Haha yeah mine has the knock sensor. 
 

you know whats funny, my genuine ford workshop manual for the XF doesnt talk about the knock sensor at all. But the ELs do obviously 

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Haha yeah mine has the knock sensor. 
 
you know whats funny, my genuine ford workshop manual for the XF doesnt talk about the knock sensor at all. But the ELs do obviously 
Really? Mine does.

But there are two different part numbers for the XF manuals, one for first release, and an updated version that included unleaded models.

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OK I'm digging this one up again lol :P

 

I have just finished converting my XF Ghia to EL injection today, and it runs great. 

 

Im just after some advice though from any of you who have done this conversion to an existing EFi XF..

 

the install instructions for the J3 mention you need to set the base idle speed down to 500-550rpm with the ISC valve unplugged. I tried this, but the idle screw on the front of the throttle body did basically nothing to affect the idle, even when it was wound in almost all the way. 

 

Is this normal with this conversion? 

Or am i likely to have done something stupid like adjusted the throttle cable up and its holding my throttle open? 

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Hey mate, I can not help you myself but, there is a fella on face book bill hooton ( I think that’s his name?) he runs the every thing barra page! 
 

He seems to be the wizard when it comes to ford electrical’s and conversions, weather it be barra or sohc possibly CROSSFLOW. Send him a message and see what he replys. 

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23 minutes ago, scottly said:

Hey mate, I can not help you myself but, there is a fella on face book bill hooton ( I think that’s his name?) he runs the every thing barra page! 
 

He seems to be the wizard when it comes to ford electrical’s and conversions, weather it be barra or sohc possibly CROSSFLOW. Send him a message and see what he replys. 

 

thanks for that. 

 

Ill also get in touch with Ti Performance to see what they say, but they dont really support crossflows. they have been great thus far helping me with this conversion 

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@LJDB

 

Hey mate, 

i seem to be having more issues than anyone else with this conversion 😂 

 

Ive had mixed issues with it and mixed results. I had it perfect for a bit, but now got issues again. 
 

when you did this conversion what did you do for the ISC valve? Ive remote mounted an E series unit and made an adapter plate and piped it back to the engine. 
 

i just replaced the EB unit i was running with an EL unit, fixed a vacuum leak, and now I can’t seem to get the cold start happy. 
 

bonus if anyone can tell me which side of the EL ISC goes to which side of the TB, that would be ace.

EB and EL are reverse i think, so i need to be sure ive not got it piped backwards

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EB/ED wiring-solenoid is facing motor, the large end towards the fender.

So holding solenoid up, holes away from you. Left is the outside of throttle plate (free air but filtered), right is inside the throttle plate.( used as air bypass to manifold at idle).

 

 

Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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48 minutes ago, Outback Jack said:

EB/ED wiring-solenoid is facing motor, the large end towards the fender.

So holding solenoid up, holes away from you. Left is the outside of throttle plate (free air but filtered), right is inside the throttle plate.( used as air bypass to manifold at idle).

 

 

Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 


Does that apply for an EL unit as well? 
 

Im hoping its just a matter of getting the base idle right, at this stage im thinking it needs to go up quite a bit. 
 

interesting point there about the air bypass. 
 

the XF throttle body has an air bypass in it, which is how the idle speed is set. 
im wondering if it is causing issues? 
bah maybe im thinking too much into it. 
 

i believe ili had it setup with a vacuum leak I didn’t know i had, which is most likely why i could never get the idle 100% right. 
 

now the vac leak seems to be fixed, perhaps the base idle is miles too low. Vac leak means higher idle. 

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ok guys who have been playing along. this is the conclusion ive come to. 

Well guys, after 3 days straight trying different things, i still couldn't get the car to run right. I still dont get what went wrong, what started all this and caused these problems, when I had it running fine until June. 

 

Anyway, i know it was directly related to the ISC valve, and today in trying every possible solution, I tried plugging in the original XF unit. which generally speaking it should not work, and doesn't work properly with EL injection. 

 

Well, the original XF unit, is by far giving the best result. So i have plugged it back in, and put the original pipes back in, and took it for a drive, it seems happy. Granted, it was tested at full running temperature. So tomorrow morning, when its bone cold, I will fire it up and see how it goes on cold start with the XF ISC valve. 

 

It isn't 100% with the XF ISC, but its definitely bearable. 
What it's doing is, it holds the idle at around 900-1000rpm for a couple seconds before settling down to normal idle. but it is consistent. it drives really well, fine changing gears etc. but the idle hold before resting is something i guess ill just get used to. 

 

I still intend to get my brother to CNC cut a solid billet alloy block to mount the E series ISC to, and test it again with a much better built mounting block, and go from there. but at this stage, the XF unit with EL injection seems ot be the best result. 

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Hey, @Panko i had my isc remotely mounted also with the xf throttle body. it was a long time ago but i recall screwing the throttle bypass on the xf throttle body shut or almost shut and playing with the idle screw to get it right. The rev hang is pretty common on e series if the idle isnt set correct. i remember reading something on the TI performance website about how to set it. How have you set base timing. The ecu need to be in diag mode to set it and from what ive noticed is the vehicle responds differently afterward which i suspect is everything is relearning. its really a lot of trial and error with the idle. i would suggest disconnecting the battery after adjustments and driving it for 5 min to let it adjust. With the j3 tuner you can set your target idle speed. Does your j3 have a tune or just the smartlock bypass?

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1 hour ago, LJDB said:

Hey, @Panko i had my isc remotely mounted also with the xf throttle body. it was a long time ago but i recall screwing the throttle bypass on the xf throttle body shut or almost shut and playing with the idle screw to get it right. The rev hang is pretty common on e series if the idle isnt set correct. i remember reading something on the TI performance website about how to set it. How have you set base timing. The ecu need to be in diag mode to set it and from what ive noticed is the vehicle responds differently afterward which i suspect is everything is relearning. its really a lot of trial and error with the idle. i would suggest disconnecting the battery after adjustments and driving it for 5 min to let it adjust. With the j3 tuner you can set your target idle speed. Does your j3 have a tune or just the smartlock bypass?


thanks for that. 
 

exactly what i went through. Air screw all the way in. Idle stop screw down. 
 

the base timing for E series is like 0 degrees or something which TI tell you to set the timing to because the ECU is looking for that. And i ran with that for a bit, but ended up going up to about 5BTDC. I eventually went back to crossflow specs of 10BTDC and it seemed ok. And drove better. 
 

What im getting now is more than rev hang, it just holds the revs. So thats why im stumped as to what has changed for it to start holding revs. I obviously found a couple vacuum leaks which seemed to help but hasnt stopped it. 
 

going back to using the standard ISC vs a remote mounted E series unit has brought me better drivability. 
the E series setup was causing me all sorts of grief. 
it was causing it to stall and then not want to start straight back up, losing power etc. 

 

but yeah running stock ISC in conjunction with EL computer its back to being reliable. 
 

my J3 has a base tune on it. With the new engine it will need a retune. 
 

To be honest, i think the final issues im having is with my very roughly made remote mount for the ISC. It has appeared to have developed a leak that I can’t solve. 
 

So i am planning to get my brother to CNC cut a billet one, and use AN screw lock fittings instead of barbs with hose

clamps and have another go with the E series ISC unit. 
 

I haven’t given up on it yet. Thanks for the information 

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