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Panko

Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

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Is there a way you can drill into the back of the pin to push it out of the housing? This would allow you to drill/tap for a screw-in one and have an external locknut to keep it tight. This is only if you can get access to the back of it.

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4 minutes ago, gerg said:

Is there a way you can drill into the back of the pin to push it out of the housing? This would allow you to drill/tap for a screw-in one and have an external locknut to keep it tight. This is only if you can get access to the back of it.

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not really unfortunately. 
could try but would be like finding a needle in a hay stack. 
and then getting the drill in there too. 
 

its all covered now by cast housing and weld 

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not really unfortunately. 
could try but would be like finding a needle in a hay stack. 
and then getting the drill in there too. 
 
its all covered now by cast housing and weld 
One last clutch at a straw... Is that detent fork installed properly? As in, is there another way it could go onto the shift rail that puts it further up into engagement with that peg so it doesn't fall off the end? Something doesn't seem right here. Is there a spacer or shim missing, circlup in the wrong spot... I dunno, I always go back to basics when I'm finding myself scratching my head

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18 minutes ago, gerg said:

One last clutch at a straw... Is that detent fork installed properly? As in, is there another way it could go onto the shift rail that puts it further up into engagement with that peg so it doesn't fall off the end? Something doesn't seem right here. Is there a spacer or shim missing, circlup in the wrong spot... I dunno, I always go back to basics when I'm finding myself scratching my head

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Well it definitely can’t put anywhere else. 
 

I did some measurements yesterday and where the fork sits in neutral, is towards the tip of the pin. Now why, I have no idea. 
i have one more thing to check, which is inside the gearbox itself. Considering i can get every other gear, i think its right inside the box but i will check it. 
 

i need to do some more measuring, but there maybe room to add to the thickness of the fork on the back side. For example braze a bit of alloy onto it or something. Otherwise i am just about out of ideas. 
 

i do have an idea of how to pull the pin, but i don’t think i have the bits here to make up the tool im thinking off 

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1 minute ago, 2redrovers said:

I could be wrong but I don't think the fork was removed from the shaft so it should still be as original.

100% i never removed it. And it doesn’t look like the roll pin has ever been removed 

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do you have to pull that pin out? is that the issue?

i can't make sense of it otherwise.

 

if so, if there's something to grab onto there'd be a way to make a tool to clamp it to remove it surely. 

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do you have to pull that pin out? is that the issue?
i can't make sense of it otherwise.
 
if so, if there's something to grab onto there'd be a way to make a tool to clamp it to remove it surely. 

Not all the way out, just forward enough to keep the fork on the pin.

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14 minutes ago, 2redrovers said:


Not all the way out, just forward enough to keep the fork on the pin.

looks like something like a small drill chuck could grip an pull out with a slide hammer

 

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looks like something like a small drill chuck could grip an pull out with a slide hammer
 

Yeah that's the first option I said, or a collet chuck, same thing. I'd use a thread /bolt to pull it out slightly like a gear puller.

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Homemade tool to the rescue. 

After doing some googling, there are tools available for this exact job, but only go down to 8mm. so i had to make something smaller. 

 

Vp1TGGf.jpg

 

Step 1: make the device to clamp to the pin 

 

3gc5xCN.jpg

 

 

Step 2: Drill and tap a 10mm hole in the opposing end (thank christ for the drill press) 

 

jopb0cn.jpg

 

Step 3: drill an 11mm hold in a solid bar to pull against

 

3tMdcLT.jpg

 

n4fWhfd.jpg

 

So far the pin has moved about 5mm forward. I think it still needs a bit more but i need to do some precise measurements before I know exactly far how it needs to come out as a minimum 

 

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I separated the engine and gearbox to make the box easier to work on. 

But also to allow room on the front of the dolly to mount the radiator too if I do want to run the engine in properly. 

 

yMtqg5e.jpg

 

qPSjFX5.jpg

 

I am concerned about my replacement extractors though. My shitty luck, i didnt see this written on the lower side of them the other day. it reads "1300? Hit floor of rally car" which is a 1600. bugger :( 

 

glbAdLV.jpg

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Once you get that pin in the right place, is there a way you can cross-pin it or stake it, seeing as it's now sitting shallower in the hole than before, with less interference fit holding it into the casing?

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Once you get that pin in the right place, is there a way you can cross-pin it or stake it, seeing as it's now sitting shallower in the hole than before, with less interference fit holding it into the casing?

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If it hasn't been pulled past the original casting then you could drill and tap the case to run in a lock/set screw. Another thought I just had, drill a pin hole behind and pump in some epoxy glue to fill the void so it can't push back in.

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36 minutes ago, 2redrovers said:


If it hasn't been pulled past the original casting then you could drill and tap the case to run in a lock/set screw. Another thought I just had, drill a pin hole behind and pump in some epoxy glue to fill the void so it can't push back in.


I was thinking once i got it, i could put a tiny amount of the steel in a tube around the base of the pin. That will bond it to the case :P 

 

I wish i knew how long the whole pin is. 
 

i did swing off it while the puller tool was attached, and there was a bit of flex. Im think it will be ok. Because i can rotate that spring by hand and holding the selector shaft in the other. So it can’t be a super tight spring load 

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From directly behind the pin? 
I don’t know how? With it welded together it would have to come from inside the shifter housing. 
 

Or do you mean from the side? 

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11 hours ago, 2redrovers said:

From the side, I'd probably aim for where the back of the pin used to be.


I could try. But it will currently be covered in weld. Could be a challenge. 
 

Looking back at your photos above, i reckon ive moved it about the distance that it was sticking out the back. 
 

Once I measure how far it has to travel in both directions, I will know if it needs to go any more. 
 

Also looking at the casting, where the pin comes out of, that surface is nearly 10mm further forward that the surface in which the selector rod comes out. 
My point here is that part of the casting looks a lot thicker, ie there is more support for the pin than it appears. 
perhaps it’s designed to be adjusted hence originally it had scope to be pushed from behind, or room for it to be shorted and pushed out the back. 
 

I think im close, and if so, i suspect there will be enough support. 

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Put your straight edge on the end of the case, use a ruler or a straight length of wire/rod and measure the depth of the inside of case to the spot next to the pin. Line up the ruler/wire on the outside of the case perpendicular to the straight edge. Hey presto.. You now know how thick the casting is in that spot.

BTW the weld is the same consistency as the the cast give or take a little difference in density. Physically drilling it won't be difficult, finding the right spot would take an educated guess. I'd probably go just behind the round bump in the casting support and 3-4mm up from the fin surface. That should find the void, go slow and you should feel the bit fall in to it. Poke a wire in the hole to find the end of the pin and that will give you the measurements of the pin when you add the thickness of the case plus the visible length.

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Ok ive done some quick measuring of the casting thickness, using the method Rod mentioned above with the straight edge. Its approximately 20mm thick in that spot for the pin, so i should have plenty meat to pull the pin out a bit and not weaken it too much 

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