Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

[deankxf 20,287]

ordered the go pro yet?
would be an awesome video..
what are the brakes like for on the way down? My gemini being diesel gets by with its ordinary brakes..

[Panko 2,480]

well i lost my GoPro in Perth in August last year. But I do have awesome footage of the run going up Mt Buller, flat out (and i mean flat out. nobody on the roads that time of year) in Cal's Cooper S replica, which runs a 1330cc, big cam, head work, larger SU carby, extractors. ill replace my GoPro before the tour this year. 

 

The brakes are pretty good. they pull up pretty well, although I'm yet to really test them out hard. they should be fine though, even though they are solid not ventilated. 

[SPArKy_Dave 8,870]

Its flogged out big time. Unfortunately nobody makes replacement bearings etc for them,

 

 

I found these, in case it helps -

 

Hardy Spicer part no's. 17R-30-1110 (center bearing and rubber) and RUJ-1786R (Uni-Joint)

 

www.hardyspicer.com.au/pdf_files/driveline/b1_catalogue_2014-15lr.pdf

Page B1.6 and B1.53

 

edit -

a few more options

http://www.burtonpower.com/propshaft-centre-bearing-rwd-ford-65-95-propcb.html

http://www.burtonpower.com/propshaft-centre-bearing-rubber-propcbr.html

http://www.burtonpower.com/universal-joint-repair-kit-22mm-diameter-ujkit1.html

 

http://www.alliedbearings.com.au/datasheets/ford/universal-joints-centre-bearings

[Panko 2,480]

well thats new. the escort guys for years have been saying throw the 2 piece tailshafts away, they aren't repairable. 

[SPArKy_Dave 8,870]

Some of the early Escort tailshafts had peined in Uni-joints. (no circlips)

Hence those ones obviously take more effort to repair.

 

Maybe the past got mixed up with the future, somewhere along the line?

[Mr Polson 10,214]

RUJ is a Repco part number.

We have one on the shelf, here's a pic.

 

 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[Panko 2,480]

Its not the unis thats the issue, the bearing that sits in the centre carrier in the middle of the shaft.

[Defective 1,692]

Why would an escort need s two piece shaft anyway? I don't think any of my mk2's had one, they were all one piece.

[Panko 2,480]

Why would an escort need s two piece shaft anyway? I don't think any of my mk2's had one, they were all one piece.

 

 

some did some didnt. both of my Mk1s have had them. Some Mk2s have as well. 

 

people swap them out for singles all the time because the 2 piece are hard to service. 

 

apparently ford did it to quieten down the cabin. i.e. the 2 piece vibrates less etc etc. 

[Defective 1,692]

some did some didnt. both of my Mk1s have had them. Some Mk2s have as well. 

people swap them out for singles all the time because the 2 piece are hard to service. 

 

apparently ford did it to quieten down the cabin. i.e. the 2 piece vibrates less etc etc.

 

Yeah I've never had a mk1 but had a few mk2s. None however were factory standard lol so quite possibly all done after factory.

[Panko 2,480]

well, bam. I have an answer to the vibrating issue in the steering. unfortunately the remedy is more money, and quite a bit of it  

 

the cause? 
The Escorts (and Cortinas, Capris) have no caster adjustment what so ever in the front end. I have gone and lowered the car, which has given the negative caster (control arms have gone backwards). so whats happening now, at certain speeds the control arms essentially start to vibrate, because the struts are too vertical, and the sway bar also being the caster rods (and a giant spring) just makes the situation worse. 

 

The solution? 

a larger  AND adjustable sway bar. to pull the control arms forward again to about +3 deg caster and good, because the car will handle a lot nicer, and apparently be more responsive up front. but, being adjustable, and Kmac it is likely to set me back a few $$$. 
ah the things we do with our cars *enter face-palm emoji* 

[deankxf 20,287]

sounds like a good idea to fix that.. kill 2 birds with one stone.. good wheel geometry is priceless.. no vibrations are the side benefit

[winton 399]

Just an idea, would it be possible to fit a wedge shaped spacer between the strut and body? And I say just an idea never herd of it done before. If you can fab it yourself it would be cheep to do, just time consuming.

[Panko 2,480]

not a bad idea winton, but it wouldn't achieve anything sadly. because the sway bar is also the castor rods, so when you lower the car it makes it longer towards the back, pushing the arms back. if you did what you are suggesting, i reckon the geometry would be further out. thats where the adjustable bars come in, they have the ability to be spaced so the arms can be moved forward or back. 

good thinking though 

 

On that note though, there are dozens of companies that make camber/castor adjustable strut tops for the escorts. that is another option, in fact ill probably add them later in the future, so i can then have camber adjustment (yep Escorts, Cortinas and Capris have no camber adjustment either). plus i need to fit roller tops due to the original rubber ones knocking sometimes, so the adjustable roller tops would fix that too, but would not fix the caster issue alone. 

[Panko 2,480]

haha thought id post this, found this funny. i needed something to help get the new bearing cups into the back side of the hubs...50mm tow ball works perfect. 

 

[SPArKy_Dave 8,870]

sounds like a good idea to fix that.. kill 2 birds with one stone.. good wheel geometry is priceless.. no vibrations are the side benefit

 

Good Vibrations you reckon?

 

[winton 399]

not a bad idea winton, but it wouldn't achieve anything sadly. because the sway bar is also the castor rods, so when you lower the car it makes it longer towards the back, pushing the arms back

 

 

Ah I see

[winton 399]

One more idea then im done

IF the swaybar is at its longest point past it as it sits now, you could fit blocks between the chassis mounts pulling the arms forward. If its not at its longest point obviously just going to make it worse. Or pull the swaybar forwards. Adjustable swaybar mounts would be good

[Panko 2,480]

Yesterday I went and purchased 2 more tyres the same as the fronts (175/50R15s) to replace the oversized 195/50s that were on the rear and scrubbing my guards. 

 

Also turns out my wheels are Citroen alloys, not Saab. Cool 
 
so I'm pretty happy with the way she's sitting now. just need the sway bar to fix this vibration. 


 

 

 

[2redrovers 21,400]

That there is just some damn fine sexy

[deankxf 20,287]

paint the tail pipe black please ... and maybe the axel hubs?

[Panko 2,480]

paint the tail pipe black please ... and maybe the axel hubs?

 

haha yeah i have to do all that yet. 

 

diff will come out eventually do be painted up, same with leaf springs and the under body at the back. 

 

exhaust will get changed hopefully in the next month or so when i fit the extractors up. 

[XTREME KARTS XF 1,212]

So the diff is not square/ 90 degrees to the chassis rails? One way to square up/adjust the "lead" in the rear end is adjustable lowering blocks. If you mesure the wheel base it'll be different from one side of the car to the other AND one side will have "toe in" while the otherside will have "toe out"

 

 

Adjustable lowering blocks are commen in America in circle track racing and speedway.

 

 

Something like this

 

[Defective 1,692]

So the diff is not square/ 90 degrees to the chassis rails? One way to square up/adjust the "lead" in the rear end is adjustable lowering blocks. If you mesure the wheel base it'll be different from one side of the car to the other AND one side will have "toe in" while the otherside will have "toe out"

 

 

Adjustable lowering blocks are commen in America in circle track racing and speedway.

 

 

Something like this

 

That is fucking genius.

[dex 2,065]

Now hang on ,,

All it would be adjusting is the length of the outter " shell " of the lowering block ,, forward or backward ,,,

 

The center pin ,, and leaf spring bolt locating " hole "

Would still be instu ,,