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Panko

Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

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11 hours ago, deankdx said:

does it leak because the needle and seat is crap? or or other reasons

 

seals or gaskets i suspect. 

 

 

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11 hours ago, Panko said:

seals or gaskets i suspect. 

 

 

cant see it leaking out of anywhere unless it overflows out the bowl personally.. 
you should speak to or visit Nigel at the carby shop( just make sure you have an hour to spare.. he's not there Thurs or Fridays)

Address: 1/5 Sherwood Ct, Wantirna South VIC 3152

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seems to come out the top gasket. down onto the throttle shaft. 

 

i might have to take the 32/36 to him and see what he has to say 

 

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i took mine to him on the pretense of getting it there for dyno tune.. 
something along the lines of can you check this for shaft wear etc and see why it didn't run so i can drive it here to be dyno tuned(he was booked 2 weeks in advance for tuning anyway and probably still is.)

to RECO one of those carbs is near cheaper to buy a NEW one ... i had in My mind if he can make mine work and tune it cheaper than just buying a new carby it would be miles better.. the time on the dyno made my car behave a heap better.

oh, by the way, My 32/32 in the car only squirts out of one of those pump jets.. i'm now going to check the other one(maybe that's why it has a stumble at times, it does have a accel pump issue also though)

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11 hours ago, bear351c said:

I 'liked' your post.....not because you got into trouble, but, your working through it. 

Get the diff swap done, and then concentrate on the carby/cable episode. 

i honestly started the carby conversion because i figured while the diff was dead, now would be the chance to do it, and really didnt expect it to be so hard haha. 

 

yep ill go back to the carby setup when i can be bothered. 

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well, I made massive progress today. I am wrapped with how much i got done. 

i got a bit done this morning before going to work, arrived home from work at 530pm, and by 8pm, i had the new diff in position ready to bolt in tomorrow. 

 

before work, I got all the brakes off the new diff, and stripped it down to just the diff. no brakes, lines, handbrake stuff etc etc.

0S5Nf9h.jpg

 

then gave it a clean and scrub with wire brush. 

 

U3MOlMe.jpg

 

as soon as i got home from work, I pressed in 2 studs each side of the diff so i could fit a couple wheels up and roll it around. makes life so easy 

 

hVAZcKI.jpg

 

 

starting to disconnect the old diff, i come across this beauty. thats all that was holding my handbrake cable to the actuator on the diff. definitely a home made job. its mean to be a pin with a clevis pin through it, not a bolt that someone has drilled the side out of and pushed a split pin through just the side of it. makes me think even moreso now that this diff is not the original diff, which again is a little upsetting give the condition of the rest of the car. so thats now the engine thats not original, nor the diff, perhaps the entire driveline, because it came with a spare manual gearbox, possibly the original. :( 

 

oh well, i still love the car no matter what, just maybe its not as original as i was lead to believe. 

 

z8dbrkq.jpg

 

old diff be gone! :D 

 

36hoh8w.jpg

 

new diff in, and leaf spring shackles bolted back up. Unfortunately i couldnt bolt the diff in place tonight because one of the U bolts was stuffed. couldnt get the nut to come off with my big breaker bar, so as much as i was hesitant, i had to use a cordless impact gun to get it off...

 

nF06je8.jpg

 

and this is the culprit. its probably a good thing this happened, because I had not bought new U bolts, and i was just thinking id re-use the old ones, all the while my heart was saying "dont be fkn stupid, fit new U bolts. Dont you remember when you snapped one on the XF?" 

yep, I learned my lesson a couple years back when i snapped a second hand U bolt on the XF, not even doing it up that tight. 

 

IyAlzzB.jpg

 

So tomorrow morning, ill be up and out the door first thing to pick up a new set of U bolts. the Nolathane ones are fantastic. have used them on the XF, and are awesome quality. I believe Bursons carry them on the shelf. 

 

the plan is to have the diff bolted into place, and hooked up to the tail shaft before i have to leave for work tomorrow at 12:30pm. Unfortunately I may have to work extra hours tomorrow night, until around 10pm, which means i dont have tomorrow night to be home working on this. I wont know this for sure though until about 6pm tomorrow night :( 

 

this leaves only Friday morning, and saturday until about 3pm to get the car finished. 
challenge accepted :D 

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13 hours ago, deankdx said:

non original.. like a 1600 and 5 speed... yeah wait till the XF is finished then do that.. 

But at least i would know ive done that. 

I have the original engine. I did know about that. 

 

 

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well, the enthusiasm has died today. I knew something was going to go wrong, it had all been going too well haha 

 

it started when i was running around trying to get the U bolts this morning. Mk1s use 60mm opening u bolts. could only get 65mm off the shelf. Pedders didnt do them, nor did a spring manufacturing place in Dandenong. I ended up over in Bayswater at Yesterford to get them again. 
When i went to fit them, after cutting them down to the right length, they wouldnt fit over the axle tubes. all of a sudden the penny dropped, the diff is a fucking Mk2 diff :angry: so basically they have these extra plates welded to the top of the axle tube, which means they use a 65mm u bolt :( 

 

my options were to buy 65mm u bolts, and mk2 spring plates and hope the shock mount is the same, or modify something to make it work...

 

see the extra plates under the bump stops? they're the issue. they're also only tacked on. so tomorrow morning (my next chance to work on the car) ill drop the diff out of the car again, and cut the welds and knock those plates off. it will then be a mk1 diff again :D so ive just lost pretty much a whole days work on the car. ive already called it and said i wont have the car at Geelong this weekend :( 

 

Frv225d.jpg

 

 

 

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14 hours ago, deankdx said:

i was just having a look, it's only needing a bit of clearancing at that area on the edge.. get the round file out? or grinder?

cHNMpFC.jpg

i had that thought also...

 

i posted the photo on facebook group. and someone suggested that these plates are some aftermarket mod. they dont seem factory, so cutting them off shouldnt be a problem 

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11 hours ago, Panko said:

as in grind it off, or grind some grooves in to make it work ? 

knowing Dave.. 
whatever get's it going the quickest.. only so many hours in the day(that aren't spent for a job or sleeping..)

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grind the grooves on the side, if it still doesn't sit right cut it off - dont make work for your self if not needed 

 

its not the body of the housing it will be fine 

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11 hours ago, deankdx said:

knowing Dave.. 
whatever get's it going the quickest.. only so many hours in the day(that aren't spent for a job or sleeping..)

you speak the dave way of life very well :P 

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11 hours ago, BGDAV said:

grind the grooves on the side, if it still doesn't sit right cut it off - dont make work for your self if not needed 

 

its not the body of the housing it will be fine 

haha  well two tack welds per plate vs cutting grooves. i reckon it would take similar time to do either. and dont need to be precise cutting them off lol

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cut the grooves first as it will have a thicker plate .. thicker = stronger, if still doesnt work then fuck the thing off, getting a tack weld behind wll be a pain off ? grinder wheel 2 seconds to make the grooves fit to test it - could have the thing installed in 5 mins :P 

 

whatever works for the cheapest option and safest is my theory 

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that plate looks like it could be there for 2 reasons? 
to prevent the axel tube getting squashed by 4 ugga duggas from the 18V 1/2" drive rattle gun(yes BGDAV... looking at you) 

or stop it getting worn by the bump stop plate? 
 

going by the one you took out, if it's not munted, then copying the old one should be more than fine.

i'd have done it by now lol(with a hack saw if the noise late at night was an issue.. ) 

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i got stuck into it early today. 

Cut the plates off, because it was confirmed last night by someone in the know that there were not meant to be there from factory lol. 

As I thought all along, there was a shitload of surface rust under them, so cleaned the areas up while i had the angle grinder out. 

 

lurepEO.jpg

 

i then decided i couldnt leave it looking shitty, so gave it a quick single coat blow over of rattle can matte black paint :D 

 

9RGE3BF.jpg
 

by 11am i had it all bolted in and hooked up to the tail shaft. 

 

x9nbE9Z.jpg

 

I fired the car up and had the diff turning over at idle speed in top gear. to say im concerned and annoyed is an understatement. 

General bearing noise, its quiet as a mouse. :D 

But a couple days ago when i was mucking about with it outside of the car i thought it had a similar clunking noise to the one i was pulling out of the car. but wasnt too concerned then. 

Today while it was turning over, yeah its making some interesting noises from the diff centre, just like the old one...FUCK! 

My only hope is that its partly because the thing is just freewheeling with zero load on it. Yes its going to need a set of bearings at some stage, i knew that all along, but hey i got it for free and i knew it had been sitting for a fair while. 

When i inspected it at the guys house on monday night, it seemed good then. maybe i wasnt paying enough attention to it...oh well, lesson learned. 

When i gave it a bit of throttle and got "road speed" up a little, there was a vibration enough to get the leaf springs bouncing slightly. It was hard to pick, but looked like the hubs were moving up and down. Again, i can only hope this is due to there being zero load on the diff. 

 

I only have the brakes to do tomorrow and its ready to drive. So the moment i drive the car ill know if its fucked or not. at least this diff is the correct ratio now, so even if it does need a reco, i have another one i can steal axles from, stick new bearings through it, and it should be a perfectly good diff. 

 

If i wasnt trying to get it done for sunday, I wouldve done it properly in the first place, reco the diff, rebush the rear suspension which has been on the TO DO list for a while, paint all the suspension etc etc. so, tomorrow will be the make or break day for the car :) 

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13 hours ago, hendrixhc said:

Did you at least whip the diff hat off and check the fluid inside?

 

Come on man haha. 

Fresh fluid and Nulon G70 additive was the first thing i did 

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