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Panko

Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

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Agreed I've fired up engines in way sketchier situations last one I did i fired up my xflow balanced on bricks, radiator hoses are usually stiff enough to hold a radiator in place, I have cable tied a radiator to a chair once to stop it moving
That's full farmer spec there Thom, surprised you didn't stick-weld some star pickets or tie it off with fence wire or involve a tree stump somehow

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That's full farmer spec there Thom, surprised you didn't stick-weld some star pickets or tie it off with fence wire or involve a tree stump somehow

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

This is a quick video before bricks or radiator were added

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not if you have a FIXED Fan on the engine i found out.. gave the transit van a rev .. Bllliiiiingggggg, 3 tubes needed soldering up .. whoops (ziptied to a chair.. yes, do this if a fan is fitted)
Thats a good point, the stray radiator i have for start-ups has a electric fan on it

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11 minutes ago, Thom said:
2 hours ago, deankdx said:
not if you have a FIXED Fan on the engine i found out.. gave the transit van a rev .. Bllliiiiingggggg, 3 tubes needed soldering up .. whoops (ziptied to a chair.. yes, do this if a fan is fitted)

Thats a good point, the stray radiator i have for start-ups has a electric fan on it

gemini engine sitting on 2 wheels .. aka "run stand" ?

 

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I started getting the engine prepped ready to fire up, but I have hit a snag. 
 

I did all the valve clearances, fitted thermostat and housing, fitted the heater outlet fitting, picked up a new PCV and installed exhaust studs in the head. 
 

I went to fit the extractors, and they don’t fit with the gearbox mount in the new location. The way they are shaped, they hit the rear crossmember now. 

They need a pin hole welded up anyway, and they are old. I also noticed that my exhaust guy, when he extended them backwards, he stepped the outlet down from 2” to 1.75”, which is annoying because going back to 2” for the 1600 isn’t really going to be possible now. 
So, i think I will replace them and the entire exhaust, start from fresh with it all. 
 

For the purposes of firing the engine up at home, I will be able to just remove the rear crossmember for now to make it work, but none of it will work in the car :( 

 

Well there’s your problem…

 

gqsiTv5.jpg
 

JX6wQb9.jpg
 

PCZu81Z.jpg
 

So there are a couple of factors here that could be causing my issues. 
1st possible and most likely is that the crossmember is now further back where the extractor extension is closer to the middle of the car. 
2nd is that the extractors are now higher. Because the 1600 block is about an inch taller, it means everything sits higher. Its possible the extractors used to see under the crossmember, whereas now they sit next to it.

 

 

I have this soaking in petrol over night. The amount of oil and s*** built up inside is bad. So going to clean it out before using it on the engine. I will install a catch can also between this and the engine
 

rvmmPjF.jpg

all in the details. Nice stainless bolts for the rocker cover 

 

rnfflSy.jpg

new heater outlet. I had to cut the barb fitting shorter because it was too long to screw in while the water pump is fitted to the engine. 

 

VXH4TPy.jpg

Valve clearance done, studs installed, rocker cover on, thermostat on. Just need manifolds, dizzy and PCV and she’s ready to fire up 

 

2kRrcHc.jpg

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3 minutes ago, deankdx said:

bend it like bender

 

9kKG6hR.jpg


Yep id already had that thought. 
 

But from reading, 1.75” is too small really for a 1600 (1660), with a cam and weber. 2” seemed to be the standard for anything from 1300GT and up, maybe 1600. 
 

You can see the step down in that photo, so yeah i think start a fresh with 2” system front to back is the way to go. 
 

Ill just remove the rear crossmember for now to test the engine. 

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yeah might need a complete rejig in that front area due to taller deck height also so probably not a bad idea to upgrade it all at once. 

i've had Quick 250 crossflows with 2" exhausts, I'm a bit sceptical when i see a NEED for a big diameter pipe, especially right to the tail pipe

 

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Watching The Skid Factory (youtube) I've seen them use heat gun to winkle up the winkle paint,

*after a bit of looking back through your thread, as a temp exhaust, cut through the expanded part on the collector & rotate to the left (guessing 4-7mm) then reweld, should work

Those extractors also look to tapper down to fit in that small "collector" that looks to just be a flared bit of pipe from when they were made,

if so, I'd cut them back where they are still round (maybe extend the secondary's a bit & put a pair of mandrel bends from where you cut) then put a twin 1 ?/?" in to 2" out collector, also with the extractors does the 4th cyl pipe go into the side of the 1st cyl, or is the collector just hidden by 2&3 (hard to tell from photos).

 

As to pipe size Vs engine as a EG. VE SV6 3.6lt has 2 1/4" twin from factory, 1800cc per bank, so 2" will be fine for a 1660cc.

also to 2" single on 4.1, from memory BF E-gas utes have 2 3/4" exhaust, & EA onwards were always 2 1/4".

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14 hours ago, FORD_MAN said:

Watching The Skid Factory (youtube) I've seen them use heat gun to winkle up the winkle paint,

*after a bit of looking back through your thread, as a temp exhaust, cut through the expanded part on the collector & rotate to the left (guessing 4-7mm) then reweld, should work

Those extractors also look to tapper down to fit in that small "collector" that looks to just be a flared bit of pipe from when they were made,

if so, I'd cut them back where they are still round (maybe extend the secondary's a bit & put a pair of mandrel bends from where you cut) then put a twin 1 ?/?" in to 2" out collector, also with the extractors does the 4th cyl pipe go into the side of the 1st cyl, or is the collector just hidden by 2&3 (hard to tell from photos).

 

As to pipe size Vs engine as a EG. VE SV6 3.6lt has 2 1/4" twin from factory, 1800cc per bank, so 2" will be fine for a 1660cc.

also to 2" single on 4.1, from memory BF E-gas utes have 2 3/4" exhaust, & EA onwards were always 2 1/4".

 

My problem is im not geared up to weld exhaust pipe lol. 
Im hopefully picking up a replacement set of 4-2-1s on tuesday. 

 

Yes you are correct, they taper down from 2" to 1.75" which suits the 1300 (1289 to be exact) 

 

Number 4 does go into the same collector as number 1, then 2 and 3 share. 

 

XF was 2" from factory, ive stepped it up to 2 ¼" up to the diff, then 2" straight pipe from there out the back. 

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So this is where I am at with the Exhaust/extractor thing. 

For the purposes of firing the engine up, I have removed the gearbox mount so i can fit the extractors. basically where the end of the extractors are, is right where the passenger side of the gearbox mount sits. 

 

falFDIe.jpg

 

They have a fantastic shape to them, but the back of the gearbox being a little wider, and the mount being located a good 100mm further backwards, they don't clear. 
Also with the 1600 block being taller, it has brought the extractors up. im certain the exhaust ran under the gearbox mount. its not level with it. 

 

YSdLVVy.jpg

 

After soaking in petrol for about 48 hours, then attacking it with degreaser, a screw driver and a hose, the PCV canister has been restored back to as good as new. 
I am going to plumb in a sealed return catch can between this and the intake manifold, but for the purposes of firing it up at home ill plumb it straight into the intake. or maybe let it vent to atmosphere for now 

 

olUQtbF.jpg

 

All fitted up and looking schmick. 

 

ic3YRfn.jpg

 

I also pulled the top off the fuel pump to have a look inside. I knew it wasn't a genuine Ford one, so it has been replaced at some point. Turns out it is brand spanking new. its never had fuel in it. so that was a nice little surprise. 

 

 

Yesterday I picked up my restored switches, and at the same time bought 3 of the 4 reproduction engine bay and (inside) boot lid stickers I need to bring the car back to 100% factory look. 

 

AqpFdK5.jpg

 

Glenn who has supplied the stickers and done my switches is a legend. and I had some serious shed envy going on. Currently he has 4 Escorts in his shed, 5 at his place in total. 4 of them are his personal cars. 1 of them, the jewell of the collection, a genuine, 1 of 25 Australian delivered Mk1 RS2000. It was a race car for a long time, then retired and sat stagnate for a long time before he bought it in 2001. He is almost finished doing a full nut and bolt restoration on it. so it hasn't been driven in around 25 years, and should be finished and ready for the road by the end of the year.  

 

His shed, can comfortably fit 4 escorts in with room to work on them all, and at a squeeze fit 6. 

 

As I was getting ready to leave, he also offered me 1 and a half sets (6 wheels) of wide steelies....for free. one of the sets were genuine Lotus Escort slotted 13x6 wheels. the other 2 were a bit unknown. After i spent years searching. 

 

I didn't take them yet. I need to check mine out for condition, and then compare to his set. they all need restoring either way. 

 

and the last little surprise from him, was the price for the switches and decals. I totally read his quote wrong. I read it has he was charging me half price, at $50 per switch to restore, so x 3 would be $150. Plus decals $175. 

When I went to pay him the $175, he says no mate, you're $100 over. 🤨 huh? he then showed me his original quote, he charged me $50 for all 3 switches to be done. 

We have known each other for a few years, and I gave him a 4 speed gearbox a while back, which id forgotten about, so that was why he was helping me out on the price. 
I am just waiting on the 1300HC decal, which he had unfortunately run out of, and will need to get more printed. 

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3 hours ago, deankdx said:

are the 1600 ones definitely different to the 1300?(deck height taller) 

 

Good question, which I don't know the answer to lol. 

 

Given these are also .2" larger diameter, id imagine they are suited for a 1600 over a 1300. so the header pipes on this come in at 1.6" the old ones are 1.4" 

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59 minutes ago, Panko said:

So all that is left now to get the engine running is fuel and oil. 

can you fit the cross member on now? hard to see in the pic if it's any different currently

 

need to go find a hotdog muffler or similar sports muffler for running it(sweeter sound :) ) 

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8 minutes ago, deankdx said:

can you fit the cross member on now? hard to see in the pic if it's any different currently

 

need to go find a hotdog muffler or similar sports muffler for running it(sweeter sound :) ) 

 

I haven't fitted them. 

 

They are still the old ones, which is what im going to test run the engine with, because I have the exhaust to match. 

 

After ive run the engine ill take the old ones off. 

 

The new ones should definitely clear, because they dont go back nearly as far. they haven't been extended like the old ones. 

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Houston, we have a problem. 

 

I have had concerns about a weird issue with the gearbox since i finished it. 

 

Ive spoken with a couple of guys from RSOCV that know these gearboxes, and it is potentially a massive step backwards. I may need to remove the extension housing for a 3rd time and realign a locating fork on the selector shaft. I am 99% sure i got it lined up, i marked it a marker so i could make sure it was straight. but there is enough doubt in my mind that makes me think I may have got it wrong again. 

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Well my fear has come true. 

I do have to remove the extension housing again on the gearbox, but it is not as simple as realigning the neutral return spring on the pin. 

 

The pin appears to be too short, allowing the spring and fork to actually move forward enough and slip passed the end of the guide pin. So im not sure how this is happened, but I will need to remove the pressed in pin, and replace it with a longer one somehow. 

 

I should explain what is going on....

 

When I run through the gears, after shifting into 2nd gear, then out of 2nd gear, the gearstick will not return to neutral. Rather is under spring load to move the lever to the right, where it should be in neutral. but moving it left, back to the 1st/2nd gate, there is no spring load at all, and once it gets all the way to the left, and audible metallic *clang*

 

If I shift into 4th, I can manage to realign the neutral return spring and fork with the pin again, and it will return to normal. 

 

Essentially whats happening is the fork travels far enough forward to slip off the guide pin, then comes back down the side of it instead of inline with it. 

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Well here we go again. The gearbox is in bits again :(

 

O5Ovgku.jpg

 

You can see here on the side of the brass fork, the score marks where its been slipping off and down the side of the centralising pin 

 

JlGyvjs.jpg

 

And here the dent where it lines back up going into 4th gear and slips back onto the pin. 

 

3SHp54P.jpg

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For reference, this is the Pin that i keep talking about. 

 

2g1jjKM.jpg

 

So this fork in the circle should centralise on the pin. the fork slides forward and backwards along the pin with the selector rod as i change gears, but it should never slip off the end, allowing the fork to rotate. But that is exactly what is happening. it moves forward enough that is slips off, then as i select second gear, which is at its most extreme forward position, and off to the side, the fork moves off, and when i take it out of 2nd gear, it returns down the side of the pin. Once this occurs, I have no spring loading on the gear stick and it flops around like one of those balloon mans 

 

CL6p25Z.jpg

 

 

So now, I need to derive a way to pull  the pin forward out of the extension housing. Unfortunately due to the shifter relocation, the access from behind the pin to potentially push the pin out, is not accessible, so pulling is the only way to do it. 
I have NFI how.

 

As s*** as it would be, if I get super stuck with this, and cant get this pin out, I am prepared for the worst case scenario, which is to revert back to the 4 speed to get the car on the road, and until I can afford another extension housing to start over with. 😕 

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1 minute ago, 2redrovers said:

Do you remember if there was any sign of wear on that fork before going back together?

 

There would have had to be some, but not like that. You and I both worked pretty intimately with the selector rod, I feel I would have seen those marks on it. Plus, they are fresh, with the nice gold colour, while the rest of the fork is a dirty brown brass colour  

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There would have had to be some, but not like that. You and I both worked pretty intimately with the selector rod, I feel I would have seen those marks on it. Plus, they are fresh, with the nice gold colour, while the rest of the fork is a dirty brown brass colour  

Yeah I recognised that the marks there now are obviously fresh. Was thinking if there had been rounded corners on the edges along with what looks like a worn tip on the pin, that would have been why it's failed now. Like we said, it was probably worn before but didn't know because you couldn't test drive it. Wonder if the old guy did anything to the pin? Maybe was going to replace it but didn't and moved it out of position?

I think I've got the answer to pulling the pin but I will have to draw you a diagram. Won't make sense otherwise.

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2 minutes ago, 2redrovers said:


Yeah I recognised that the marks there now are obviously fresh. Was thinking if there had been rounded corners on the edges along with what looks like a worn tip on the pin, that would have been why it's failed now. Like we said, it was probably worn before but didn't know because you couldn't test drive it. Wonder if the old guy did anything to the pin? Maybe was going to replace it but didn't and moved it out of position?

I think I've got the answer to pulling the pin but I will have to draw you a diagram. Won't make sense otherwise.

 oh whoops should have specified. the photo of the pin is not mine. its someone else's housing. 

 

Notice in the pink circle it has that oil tray that mine is missing. I was talking with the owner of the box in that photo, and he said dont worry about the oil tray. it wont make a difference to oil supply to the back of the box. 

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