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Panko

Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

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31 minutes ago, deankdx said:

 

that kind of thing is the reason i won't be pulling down a good gearbox lol. i'm partly interested in pulling a broken one apart, but still haven't got anywhere near doing that job

 

Look, the Type 9, is an extremely simple gearbox. it really had me surprised really how simple they are. Initially I was scared to pull it down, but once I had, and working on it, they are so easy. 

 

As long as you have some equipment. You need a shop press, and thats really about it. otherwise basic hand tools you can strip and build one of these 

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Look, the Type 9, is an extremely simple gearbox. it really had me surprised really how simple they are. Initially I was scared to pull it down, but once I had, and working on it, they are so easy. 
 
As long as you have some equipment. You need a shop press, and thats really about it. otherwise basic hand tools you can strip and build one of these 
Most gearboxes are relatively simple, but lack of common knowledge seems to be what scares most people.

Same with autos, they're rather simple in how they work but because it's seen as a specialist thing people avoid them.


Bet you drove carefully with that glass in the back of the wagon!!

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1 minute ago, Mr Polson said:


Bet you drove carefully with that glass in the back of the wagon!!

 

Sure did haha. 

other than the wagon breaking down on me, it was good to drive it lol 

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I win! 

 

On Tuesday, I met with a club member from RSCOV who had a "dead" Type9 in his workshop, out of his rally car. He gave me the parts I needed to get mine fixed. Ive ordered a new set from Germany, and have offered to give him them when they arrive, in exchange for the ones he gave me. 

The funny part is, he was also having an issue with his recently rebuilt Type9, not getting into 5th gear, and was going from his meeting with me, back to the workshop that rebuilt the box to have his looked at. Turned out he ALSO was having issues with exploding synchros. they pulled it down, and similar deal, part of the synchro had failed, and the blocker bars had gone walking. Right after he gave me his spare ones. Thankfully they were found inside his extension housing, and were all useable, so he didn't need the spares he just gave me. 

 

Once I got the synchro mechanism back together, it took me probably half an hour to get the gearbox back together. I worked out what caused me to have issues last week. basically the selector rod was rotated off his home position, so it didn't locate in the extension housing properly. that is why i pulled it apart again last week, that is why i accidentally popped the synchro apart, that is why it broke. 

 

n1nTdgi.jpg

 

The engine and box are now together. The gearbox shifts like a dream, although like i said the other day, very close gear changes, but I am super excited about this. 

Still waiting on the head to come back though...

I just have a few small things to do on the box to finish it off...

- replace the temporary shifter bolts with proper length units with washers (and grease the shifter mechanism inside) 

- transfer the reverse light switch from the 4 speed box over

- pull the speedo cogs out of the two 4 speeds i have and count the teeth and decide which to run in the 5 speed. 

 

MYVZU94.jpg

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nicely detailed, i always look at the oil filters and think why didn't that get painted black also .. (then i remember how i wouldn't have bothered either) 

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Seeing as I have a fancy camera now that can do high quality video, I figured id set this up and put this little clip together. 
Gives you guys an idea how "short" the shifter makes the gear changes on the Type 9.. 

 

 

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4 minutes ago, gerg said:

Looks rifle-bolt precise.. that will be sweet to use now

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
 

 

I just hope its a bit smoother and quieter when I grease it haha. Its currently dry. 

These shifters are renown for being rattly when not under load, as in cruising in gear. Someone from the car club said to fit it, use an old steering rack boot, cut it down, it fits perfect over the stick, and cable tie both ends. 
You can see at the bottom of the shifter housing there is a recess for a cable tie. just needs the boot. 

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5 minutes ago, deankdx said:

wow they are amazing! 

 

 

 

Yeah he does awesome work. 

 

I am considering asking him if he is willing to do XF/ZL/FE door switches when I see him next. 

 

I still have 1 more to give him, because for some reason i left it in the car. its the dash light dimmer wheel/switch. so ill have to get him to that at a later date. 

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I picked up the head from the engine builder finally. 

 

It just needs a coat of paint, and it can go on. 

 

New valves, and steam seals. 
 

eK3crnb.jpg

 

lF66TJ8.jpg

 

 

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Just now, deankdx said:

surprised it wasn't suggested to surface grind that thermostat area.. be needing some silastic on that one by the looks

 

 

yeah unfortunately they all do it there. 

its rare to find a good one. 

 

Usually can get them to seal with silastic. 

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31 minutes ago, Panko said:

i might sit down and carefully clean it up. but otherwise it should be ok 

 

31 minutes ago, Panko said:

lF66TJ8.jpg

 

that looks like you could trace out the thermostat neck area.. and the head mob could set it up and surface it simply on a milling machine(separate  to the rocker cover part) @Thom do you agree?

 

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that looks like you could trace out the thermostat neck area.. and the head mob could set it up and surface it simply on a milling machine(separate  to the rocker cover part) [mention=43]Thom[/mention] do you agree?
 


It would be pretty easy to Machine separately from the rocker cover surface, but would probably be quicker to file it flat if you know what you are doing with a file

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might need to leave it alone due to that recess for the thermostat too i guess. 

and not many people even know what a file is these days. Unless it's on a computer

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Ok i attacked the thermostat area with a hand file today. 
 

I didn’t go right down to get rid of all the pitting but its better. It also have a bit more surface for the thermostat housing to pull down to. 
The new thermostat housing is a little different to the ones ive run in the past, in that the housing itself is smaller than the thermostat, so it actually pulls down on the outer ring of the thermostat itself, which makes sense to me, as it should help give a better seal and make sure the thermostat stays put in its spot. 
 

i think with the new gasket and some gasket goo it will seal ok. 

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i also cleaned up the tops of the pistons today

 

before

 

kyPPpE0.jpg
 

 

After

 

CzBsns0.jpg
 

 

The pistons are also .060” oversized. 
Im not 100% sure, but doing some reading on building these Engines, that means the capacity is approximately now 1660cc. 
 

.090” over Brings them up to 1700cc 

 

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