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Panko

Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

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11 minutes ago, 2redrovers said:

Hopefully it helps when I say that it's all repairable and if they do it right it should only require minimal paint, thus preserving the original look/condition.

 

Hopefully yeah. 

 

Ive already got the ball the rolling. lodged the claim, and Mark from RSOCVIC, who owns a smash repair, quoting on it tomorrow. 

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5 minutes ago, hendrixhc said:

For Fuck Sake is all i can say.

 

Long as youre all right thats the main thing.

 

This is why i drive my cars less and less on the road.

 

 

Yep. 

 

Ive been driving this for the last week as a daily, just to give it a good run. hadnt been out in 2 months. and its been so much fun, driving around the streets etc, and in the heavy rain (that was an experience) 

 

Since 2016 now all 3 of my cars have had damage to the back. the Land Rover was my fault though. 

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4 minutes ago, Mr Polson said:

That's really shit news mate.

Hope you're alright.

I agree with James, especially this time of year. I avoid driving my older cars a lot of the time just because I'm worried about someone else running into me

 

you think id learn. 

 

yeah I dont think ill ever want to drive either car ever again after repairs :( 

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you think id learn. 
 
yeah I dont think ill ever want to drive either car ever again after repairs  

That's the point when it becomes a track car with a wild engine, at least then if it gets bent it will be while doing something fun.

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the car will be back on the road hopefully. 
I have already started considering the better financial decision, if it is (i doubt it) a write off. 

 

I get to keep the car either way, but if its a total loss, it maybe be a better financial decision to replace it with another car, and sadly strip this for parts to recoup some of the costs, rather than attempt to repair it. I should know by next week, or the week after the cost and what Shannons wants to do. 

 

Its insured for $16500. surely with that value it will be repaired. And im certain Mark will do everything in his power to avoid it costing too much, that Shannons wont repair it. 

 

Ah the nervous waiting game starts all over again :( 

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I think Shannon's has a 75-80% marker for write off's. Might be higher on the vintage stuff I'm not sure, haven't been around the insurance stuff for ages. The repairs are fairly basic from what I can see in the photos but call that an educated guess, there's always more to find under the skin. Nothing looks crushed enough for me to call it unrepairable.. A few pumps and the boot would be just about back in position.. Front needs a careful tug to pull the guard back out with it. Hard part is high quality trim pieces which are rare as you already know but you could come to some sort of agreement with the agency to repair the car minus those trims and source them yourself. I follow a guy on fb that repairs stainless trims to perfect condition, Carl mills I think is his name.

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5 minutes ago, 2redrovers said:

I think Shannon's has a 75-80% marker for write off's. Might be higher on the vintage stuff I'm not sure, haven't been around the insurance stuff for ages. The repairs are fairly basic from what I can see in the photos but call that an educated guess, there's always more to find under the skin. Nothing looks crushed enough for me to call it unrepairable.. A few pumps and the boot would be just about back in position.. Front needs a careful tug to pull the guard back out with it. Hard part is high quality trim pieces which are rare as you already know but you could come to some sort of agreement with the agency to repair the car minus those trims and source them yourself. I follow a guy on fb that repairs stainless trims to perfect condition, Carl mills I think is his name.


yep i believe its 80% of cars value is what they will spend to repair the car. 
 

the chrome trims are actually ok. Well the side corner bits, or “hockey sticks”, didn’t cop any more damage than what was existing already. 
 

the one on the boot, well thats a different story. Given it hasnt kinked, it might be fixable. 
 

whats lying under the skin? 
the LH chassis rail is bent right at the back, immediately inside the rear panel. And the floor is slightly bent also immediately inside the rear panel. But the rest of the floor is straight (looking from underneath, havent opened boot yet)

There might he a slight bend in the RH chassis rail where it goes up over the diff (more inspection needed) 

 

but otherwise, 1/4s are straight, doors open and close perfectly, exhaust is bent i think, RH reverse light smashed. I think the glass number plate light (hidden under rear bumper) survived though somehow. 
 

all the panels damaged (other than boot lid) are available brand new. So depending what Mark comes back with, and how crazy he wants to go on it, there is the option to replace the rear panel, and the front ¼ panel. Although big job. 
 

Talking with my partner tonight about the accident, i cant remember if i had my hands on the steering wheel still or not when i got hit. Id be interested to see if the wheel is bent from the impact or not. 

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Most of what I saw and what you described (I already guessed most of that list and a bit more) will unfold when it's pulled out on the rack. From what I'm looking at, I wouldn't be cutting any panels off until the cosmetics could be assessed after the pull was done. It's possible the back panel will tear/separate from the floor a little but that's minor.

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4 hours ago, Panko said:

This date, the 10th of December is definitely jinxed for me.

Damn, hopefully works out ok, and you don't get any issues yourself..
My cousin had 2 BAD crashes the same day one year apart(was around this time of year also..) he definitely stayed home the following year.. both times for him he was in hospital for the rest of december into the new year so you wouldn't take that risk again..(GTR LJ torana coupe into a tree..asleep and Motorbike into a VW beetle with roofracks and skis on the roof = bad injuries also.. wasn't happy about leathers being cut off either)

i forgot about driving at this time of year, it's actually been bad EVERY time i've driven this year(once a month since march on average.. morons everywhere.. suspect on something ...)

 

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1 hour ago, deankdx said:

i forgot about driving at this time of year, it's actually been bad EVERY time i've driven this year(once a month since march on average.. morons everywhere.. suspect on something ...)

 

My theory, is alot of folk are avoiding public transport atm, due to fear of china virus.

Hence a massive amount of extra traffic.

Add in people working 20bazillion multiple part-time jobs for 2hrs a day, due to still no work around.

 

I back up my theory, by the higher price of new/used vehicles at the moment.

Supply and demand?

 

One day last week, I went out, but turned around went back home, and did after hrs instead.

The traffic was THE WORST I can ever remember seeing it.

Ridiculously long lines.

This wasn't at the height of peak hr either - something like 3-4pm or so.

 

Even traveling home this evening at 9.30-ish, I noted a high number of vehicles on the road.

 

Traveling through the Warrandyte/Eltham corridor earlier, wasn't pleasant.

In a few cases, there were lines of traffic km's long, leading up to intersections or roundabouts.

 

My work productivity has definitely fallen, due to travel times.

 

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I have the quote and list of repairs to be done on the car. 
 

@2redrovers, as you said above, you wouldn’t be cutting any panels off, and I understand. 
Mark has come back with both the LHF ¼ being replaced due to prior damage and repair before accident, and being filled with bog, and replacement rear panel, due to the risk of tearing. The rear support inside has already torn away and torn the floor open. Plus there is a rust showing in the lower valance. 
 

List of repairs as delivered to me by Mark; 

- new LHF 1/4

- new rear panel

- replacement boot lid

- all damaged chrome strips sent away for repair and chrome

- replacement bumper and over riders

- replacement grill (which i have) if existing cant be repaired

- straighten front panel 

- straighten boot floor

- straighten rear chassis 

- repair boot hinge mechanism 

 

Now the paint is the bit ill admit im a little concerned about, but I will be pretty hard on the guys to do it right. 
 

Mark has come back with; 

- LH side of car painted

- rear of car

- (i think) RHR ¼ 

- boot lid

- bonnet 

All to be painted to match the paint best. 
 

I explained that in doing that, id have the RHF ¼ not matching due to prior (rough) repairs. 
so we will discuss a cash price to continue on to paint the remainder of the car. 
 

Its certainly not what i wanted to hear, or do, and ill be super disappointed if it doesn’t come back with the same glass like finish on it. But, in reality, if its done properly, it means the car would not longer be patchy. It just means i wont be its original paint anymore :( 

 

so lots to think about. 
I haven’t heard back from Shannons yet to get my claim going, but the quote is sitting there ready to go. I should know by next week the outcome for the car. 

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As far as the quote goes it's fine and reasonable, covers all the bases and goes a little further than usual with the whole side painted instead of blended at the door and quarter.

For paint look at it this way, I know it won't be original any more but it's the cheapest way to get a full respray in quality products. As I read the list I was already thinking, hope you can talk about doing the rest, and yep there it is . Cut the cost by doing the removal of handles etc yourself if he let's you. If you want it like glass, talk to him about dropping an extra layer of clear so that you can wet sand and buff afterwards. If you feel that you are able to do it that is, it's not really difficult but time consuming.

I understand why he's cut panels and in person I might have done that too. He knows the cars well and it's easier and quicker than chasing old damage that they aren't technically allowed to repair on the insurance dollar.

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2 hours ago, 2redrovers said:

As far as the quote goes it's fine and reasonable, covers all the bases and goes a little further than usual with the whole side painted instead of blended at the door and quarter.

For paint look at it this way, I know it won't be original any more but it's the cheapest way to get a full respray in quality products. As I read the list I was already thinking, hope you can talk about doing the rest, and yep there it is emoji106.png. Cut the cost by doing the removal of handles etc yourself if he let's you. If you want it like glass, talk to him about dropping an extra layer of clear so that you can wet sand and buff afterwards. If you feel that you are able to do it that is, it's not really difficult but time consuming.

I understand why he's cut panels and in person I might have done that too. He knows the cars well and it's easier and quicker than chasing old damage that they aren't technically allowed to repair on the insurance dollar.


Exactly right. Ill never be able to afford a full respray on it, so this is definitely my cheapest option. 
One thing I will be doing post respray is sending it straight to the detailer that did the wagon, to have it polished right up and ceramic coated. Rather than waiting 2 years post respray to do it like i did with the wagon. 
 

i dont feel as bad about the Escort as I did the wagon, but still hate that its happened, and happened twice. 
 

 

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12 hours ago, Fingers said:

It sounds like you have the right shop on the job.

Good luck with it

Yeah i sure hope so. he is a member of RSOCV as well, so i know him personally, and he has just finished building his own bubble arched Mk1 panel van. as well as another member's Capri. so yeah fingers crossed it comes out good.

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Add to that the availability of parts, and I'm sure you will end up with it back on the road, one way or another.

If the right people fix it, it will be fine.

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