Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

[SPArKy_Dave 8,869]

Sucks when that happens.

All told, it's probably better to happen on your watch, rather than a passenger doing it?

 

I believe that colour is available (or an extremely close reproduction).

It's the same as XB vinyl isn't it - Escorts being locally produced at the time?

I've not long been through the entire vinyl catalogue, looking for a match to F-truck scheels.

 

What about recaro's, done in original vinyl, or the RS Escort chocolate brown cordruoy material?

(called Beta Cloth)

 

 

 

[deankxf 20,278]

35 minutes ago, Panko said:

So what do i do? 

 

Recover the original passenger seat, knowing i cant get the correct trim now, and will be cheaper than the recaros to cover how i want (Recaros @ $1500 per seat) or spend the money and get one of the Recaros done, and run with mismatched recaros until i can afford to have the second one done? 

 

for Me.. 
for that small rip, i'd put up with it some more.. 

bit like the clock bezel.. its not perfect, but its damn close.. leave it

 

there are tutorials on how to pull apart a recaro seat.. i wouldn't even be surprised if you can buy a brown seat trim for them even (far cheaper than $1500)

 

[Panko 2,480]

26 minutes ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

Sucks when that happens.

All told, it's probably better to happen on your watch, rather than a passenger doing it?

 

I believe that colour is available (or an extremely close reproduction).

It's the same as XB vinyl isn't it - Escorts being locally produced at the time?

I've not long been through the entire vinyl catalogue, looking for a match to F-truck scheels.

 

What about recaro's, done in original vinyl, or the RS Escort chocolate brown cordruoy material?

(called Beta Cloth)

 

 

 

 

Its Saddle, and its already available. 
in the correct pattern and all. 

 

5 minutes ago, deankdx said:

for Me.. 
for that small rip, i'd put up with it some more.. 

bit like the clock bezel.. its not perfect, but its damn close.. leave it

 

there are tutorials on how to pull apart a recaro seat.. i wouldn't even be surprised if you can buy a brown seat trim for them even (far cheaper than $1500)

 

 

 

the clock im not worried about. the seat, really really upsets me. the passenger seat was perfect until then

 

that photo was when it first happened, within a few minutes of sitting on it, it tore even further. now its let go, its just going to continue to rip. 

 

Im probably going to look around and see if i can get it done a little cheaper. ill probably get a price to recover the passenger seat, rather than doing the Recaro. 

[2redrovers 21,399]

Just needs a little duct tape for that "period correct" repair

[Panko 2,480]

who am I kidding? I have no money to justify recovering the seats lol. 

Especially with my work start date getting pushing back another month. 

[2redrovers 21,399]

Repco had a sale on... A pair of cheapskin seat covers, job done

[Panko 2,480]

Gauges all done, and I am wrapped with  how its come up. They look fantastic, and i think suit the car really well. 

 

 

 

 

Unfortunately, its the same old story. fix one thing, break another. 

The dam misfire has come with a vengeance. it is running like a complete pig again. dropping a cylinder, no power to accelerate  

 

i think this time, I am going to drain the fuel tank entirely, flush the rest of the fuel system and clean out the carby all over again. 

 

Dad and I are starting to think it could be condensation on the inside of the tank. I have previously noticed how the outside of the tank has gotten quite wet on cold days from condensation, so perhaps its happening on the inside of the tank too. 
Why now is it a problem and never before you ask? 

 

2 possible reasons. 

 

1, i have changed the fuel tank breather to a pre-emissions car style breather, where the breather pipe comes out right at the back of the car behind the tank, instead of going through the charcoal canister. 

 

2, the car is spending more time out in the cold weather, but under a carport, as opposed to being in a sealed shed or garage like it has in the past couple winters. 

 

I am otherwise lost as to what could be causing this issue 

[deankxf 20,278]

2 hours ago, Panko said:

2 possible reasons. 

 

1, i have changed the fuel tank breather to a pre-emissions car style breather, where the breather pipe comes out right at the back of the car behind the tank, instead of going through the charcoal canister

why did you change the setup? they may have even changed due to this issue? 
the gemini gets it's vapour/fuel tank breather from the rocker cover/via the air filter its an interesting setup.. i considered fitting a charcoal canister if i fitted the falcon weber. 

 

gauges look NEAT AS! love the tacho matching the stereo illumination too. 

what's up with the oil pressure on the second pic, off the scale?

[Panko 2,480]

34 minutes ago, deankdx said:

why did you change the setup? they may have even changed due to this issue? 
the gemini gets it's vapour/fuel tank breather from the rocker cover/via the air filter its an interesting setup.. i considered fitting a charcoal canister if i fitted the falcon weber. 

 

gauges look NEAT AS! love the tacho matching the stereo illumination too. 

what's up with the oil pressure on the second pic, off the scale?

I changed it because I removed the charcoal canister, and it was not breathing haha. on warm days it used to pressurise and push fuel back out the filler. classic example was a club run with VicMini, on a warmish day, parked in Healesville i think, id just filled it up, parked it and had lunch. came back an hour later and there was massive amounts of fuel on the ground and down the carpark. it pushed about 10L of fuel back out the filler. Same thing happened the first time i ever put a full tank of fuel in it when I got it on the road after buying it. 

The reason it was changed in the later cars was due to emissions laws. pre-1975 Escorts didnt run charcoal canisters like mine. 

haha the second pic was actually taken before the first. it didnt have the sender hooked up to it at that point. 

[deankxf 20,278]

i kind of think the charcoal canister is a good idea.. there's a very compact Hyundai one i saw on a thread on FFAU recently. could fit it under the car(wonder if they filter moisture out? )

 

[Panko 2,480]

1 hour ago, deankdx said:

i kind of think the charcoal canister is a good idea.. there's a very compact Hyundai one i saw on a thread on FFAU recently. could fit it under the car(wonder if they filter moisture out? )

 

Look to meet emissions yeah i should have one, but tbh how much cleaner are they? 
the engine certainly is cleaner internally. I know from oil changes. 
 

Whether or not they would filter out moisture, doesnt make a difference. Because the fuel breather into the canister doesnt affect the feed line to the carby. 
what i would need is a water separator, or an old style fuel pump with a bowl on it, where they seperate the water and fuel 

[deankxf 20,278]

i wouldn't care about emissions part of it.. i've blocked them off on falcons before many times.

the pcv is the thing that should keep the oil cleaner, not sure the charcoal canister would have much affect on it if working correctly. 

i'm genuinely interested in what is causing this issue, and what you do to fix it, because it's nothing i've had YET.. 

[Panko 2,480]

44 minutes ago, deankdx said:

i wouldn't care about emissions part of it.. i've blocked them off on falcons before many times.

the pcv is the thing that should keep the oil cleaner, not sure the charcoal canister would have much affect on it if working correctly. 

i'm genuinely interested in what is causing this issue, and what you do to fix it, because it's nothing i've had YET.. 

well my thinking is the reason engines with emissions controls are dirtier inside is because they are reburning engine emissions, in this case it would have been oil vapour. The charcoal canister is meant to filter out what it can, then recycle back into the engine. Its the unburnt shit that goes back into the engine that makes them go yuck. 
Similar to a catch can, but a catch can actually catches oil and nasties which means having to drain them from time to time. 
 

1 thing i have not tried that a mate just suggested to me in a fb messenger chat group was perhaps power supply to coil is breaking down. 
so i need to test voltage at coil supply. 
 

My dad suggested (after the debacle with the XF’s new engine head) perhaps the valves on one of the cylinders isnt sealing. After all, ive only had this issue with this head. The suggestion has merit, but i did pick up 10psi compression on all cylinders with this head. 
 

when i flushed out the carby, then ran the metho through the fuel tank, it came nearly 100% good again. Its now sat for a couple of weeks, its been cold and wet, contaminated fuel again? Moisture? Condensation? 
I got NFI, and its frustrating. Ill drive it tomorrow, see if it clears. If it clears, it suggests fuel problem again. For such a simple car, this is crazy. 
 

on a side note, been watching lots of MCM, and they were talking about spark plugs in an episode i was watching. Did some googling, and with the weber carby, ive generally still run standard Escort plugs. Ive realised i should possibly be running slightly hotter plugs, to help with the rich AF mixture.   

[deankxf 20,278]

are the valve lash settings correct still? as it warms up, the valves grow longer, and could be held open if the lash is set tight 

definitely a shit situation, would frustrate anyone. 

 

might be able to remove the carby top and see water in the carby bowl again in the current(running shit right now) situation

[Panko 2,480]

32 minutes ago, deankdx said:

are the valve lash settings correct still? as it warms up, the valves grow longer, and could be held open if the lash is set tight 

definitely a shit situation, would frustrate anyone. 

 

might be able to remove the carby top and see water in the carby bowl again in the current(running shit right now) situation

Yeah perhaps i could try taking the valve lash back a tiny bit. 
although previously its tended to run better as it gets up to temp, not the other way round. 
argh i dont know anymore lol. 

[SPArKy_Dave 8,869]

PCV, EGR and blowby, are what soot's up the intake and contaminates the oil.

 

A stuck open EGR will make a vehicle run lean/poorly. (normally only opens under load)

A stuck closed PCV will pressurise the crankcase, causing oil leaks.

 

The opposite of both will do nothing, except cause a slight rich condition with the EGR - if it's expecting exhaust gases in the intake under certain conditions.

 

Charcoal canisters are just a storage tank for fuel vapours, so raw fuel doesn't get drawn directly into the engine, from the tank.

The charcoal absorbs any raw fuel, which then slowly evaporates under manifold vacuum.

A car that's tuned to expect fuel vapours under certain conditions, will run slightly lean without it.

 

In this case, the carby is different from stock and tuned as such,

so the presence or absence of a canister, shouldn't affect anything IMO.

 

adr27a (emissions) was introduced 12/74.

Before then, fuel tanks (via fuel cap) and oil caps vented direct to atmosphere.

12/74 onwards -

fuel caps had one-way valves (air in only), to allow the charcoal canister evap vent/system to work.

 

[Panko 2,480]

well ive had some luck today. 

 

After driving the car this morning and it running like utter shit, i changed the plugs this afternoon to BP5s (from BP6s). so one step hotter. after doing this, it feels so much  better. idles better, runs on all 4 cylinders, pulls really well, BUT, it still has a decent misfire cruising at an RPM range between about 2700 and 3200rpm. so cruising, the throttle only part way open, around those RPMs, it is still not happy. give it a little more throttle than cruising throttle, and its ok, and RPM outside of that area its ok. 

 

when I was changing the plugs, there was subtle hints of dried moisture, what i thought to be coolant, on top of the pistons. so i immediately thought head gasket. i think its just condensation building up over night, so if thats it, im hoping the hotter plugs will help. 

The old plugs, came out looking right. usually when i pull them out, i get 2 that look ok (#1 and #4) and 2 that are as black as anything (#2 and #3), which are the two that the primary barrel runs on. 

Well since the last time i pulled the plugs out, ive spaced the carby up, and now the plugs look very close to even across the board, and they are a good grey colour, clean and dont smell like fuel, and not oily. so im hoping that means my mixtures might be pretty close now that ive spaced the carby. that was the reason for spacing it. 

 

So tomorrow ill fire it up again in the cold morning, and see what happens. its pretty low on fuel now, so i might drain the tank tomorrow completely, replace the bit of old fuel line coming out of the tank, then put some fresh fuel in there. 

[deankxf 20,278]

if it's just fouling plugs, it might be rich from an issue with the power valve or other diaphram leaking? 

 

sounding less electrical though, and can rule out valve lash i would think if it runs same when warm

[Panko 2,480]

25 minutes ago, deankdx said:

if it's just fouling plugs, it might be rich from an issue with the power valve or other diaphram leaking? 

 

sounding less electrical though, and can rule out valve lash i would think if it runs same when warm

 

well thats the thing. previously I would have said the plugs were definitely fouled, but they looked good today. nothing out of the ordinary, which is a first for this engine. 

 

i knew it wasnt ignition on the basis that i had swapped the entire ignition system from coil to distributor, plugs, leads, the whole lot. 

 

flushing the carby last time worked. now fitting hotter plugs has seemed to significantly improved it. ive possibly been running the wrong plugs for a long time, since fitting the weber. the BP6s are good for stock, but my understanding is due to the bigger carby and bigger rush of fuel and air, i should have been running hotter plugs all along. 

I did a test also today before fitting new plugs, trying to compress the cylinders. number 1, sealed well enough, that with the car in gear and handbrake on, it still moved the car. all 3 other cylinders had plugs removed. however, it does have blow by. head seems to be sealing fine, but the rings are not hence the comp test only returning 100psi peak lol 

[deankxf 20,278]

check your valve lash.. to be sure

[Panko 2,480]

After finding another manual pedal box on Gumtree, with the correct throttle pedal, i was wrapped. then the guy went cold on me, and stopped responding to me, after arranging freight to me from Adelaide and all, he went quiet. thankfully i hadnt paid anything before he dropped off the face of the earth. 

So today, i decided to "adjust" my original pedal, to get it into a more useable location. 

 

First iteration 

 

 

Then i decided i wanted it a little closer to the floor, a little lower...

Second iteration, where it will stay. 

 

 

Obviously i had to correct the angle of the pad too. 

I drilled out the spot welds holding the pad on, then after bending the pedal above to get it to where I wanted it, while i had the pad off, I bent the last little bit to get it back in the right position, relative to the rest of the pedal arm. 

 

 

after a bit of trial and error, tack welding the pad back on, bending the weld etc 3 times, i finished it. 

 

Then gave it a polish to a nice chrome finish

 

 

because my pedal seemed to be incorrect for the (manual) car, it didnt have the return spring hook either. 

So, i made one. an old hose clamp, some fuel hose and presto, i have a return spring. 

 

 

Here it is, installed. 

Its heaps closer to the brake now, but even with my biggest boots on (in pic) i still dont seem to hit both pedals at the same time. In saying that, I havent driven the car yet out on the road. 

 

 

The final installed position im pretty happy with. With the return pedal stop i added previously, and this pedal arm being a different shape to the one i removed, i have gained huge amounts of cable adjustment now. The pedal is sitting maybe 10-20mm lower than the brake pedal, and i still get full throttle, so this could be interesting to drive now. 

Cant wait to try it tomorrow. 

 

 

 

[deankxf 20,278]

be careful driving.. cops are fining people in big numbers this last week 

[steve mcqueen 1,796]

On 7/4/2020 at 10:15 PM, 2redrovers said:

Repco had a sale on... A pair of cheapskin seat covers, job done

 

That they did. 

I agree tho. Duct tape and a seat cover. 

[Panko 2,480]

1 hour ago, deankdx said:

be careful driving.. cops are fining people in big numbers this last week 

 

yes they are. 

however this time in lockdown, the DHHS has stated (and its on their website) we can go for a leisure drive providing we only get out of the car for 1 of the 4 essential reasons 

[deankxf 20,278]

4 minutes ago, Panko said:

 

yes they are. 

however this time in lockdown, the DHHS has stated (and its on their website) we can go for a leisure drive providing we only get out of the car for 1 of the 4 essential reasons 

woo! had to check. 

 

Can I get out of the house and just go for a drive?

Yes, however this can only be undertaken within metropolitan Melbourne or Mitchell Shire, and should not involve leaving your vehicle for any purpose except for the four reasons (shopping for necessary goods or services, care, caregiving or compassionate reasons, exercise, and work or study).