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Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

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11 hours ago, deankdx said:

wonder why the diff blew.. all that NA power of the 1300

 

Or the embarrassment of having those poxy chaser rims on!

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Well ive heard these standard diffs are pretty weak, and i dont drive it hard, but ive been told the 1300s will break them. 

 

As for the wheels, they maybe look a bit poxy, but cant go passed them for how light they are. 

 

Just as i thought i couldnt have any more issues, i was wrong. I now have carbie issues. I swapped the carbies today, and fitted the 32/36. Well, its got problems. 

The weber i had on the car, turns out the fuel jet for the secondary wasnt pumping fuel into the barrel at all. May explain why its been leaning out up in the rpm under load. 

So my options are, revert back to the smaller weber and try get the second fuel jet working. 

Try get the 32/36 running properly, or, 

borrow Michael's 32/36 (rebuilt) for the short term to get the car running again...Michael's is a 2.5hr return trip :( 

 

and im being told if at all possible i need to have the car in geelong in a week. So i have essentially 3 days (taking into account work hours) to get the diff changed, and the engine running again. 

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small carby worked.. put it back on for now..

bolt the diff in.. probably a half day job if you take your time.. .. how old are the wheel cyls.. if they are reasonably old i'd buy new ones because i've had them leak when disturbed.

 

first thing i'd do is loosen all the brake lines now to make sure if you break one because it's rusted in you have time to get that fixed alsor

buy the new oil and brake fluid to have on hand .

 

for leaf diffs i now undo the shackle rubbers at rear to save lifting the diff over the springs.. depends what's easier(betting escort one is much much lighter than a disc brake falcon one though.)

 

should be possible. 
i'd be more thinking the secondary venturi is loose and not drawing fuel rather than being blocked. but if so, that should be easy fixed.. jet comes out easy.. they are probably 1.4mm jets on the secondary.. whats going to block that? 

sure it's not too rich on the secondary and bogging down?

 

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I believe ill get it done. The issue is, those 3 days of time is split between what time i can spend before leaving for work at 1230 each day, then what i can get done after work at night. 

 

The diff change im not too concerned about. Ive been planning it out in my head for days now lol. Everything to do with brakes ill probably swap straight over, its all not too old. 

 

The reason i think the second barrel is getting no fuel, is because when turned the carby to WOT, there was a nice stream of fuel from the primary, and nothing from the secondary at all. 

Closer inspection made me realised how filthy and how much carbon was built up on the secondary butterfly, vs the spotlessly clean primary butterfly. 

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need air speed through a carby to draw fuel, unless it's high revs you might not see it(i thought My gemini one was blocked also for same reason) 
could try the rag over the carby top at wide open, to suck the crap through.. this is what got mine going when it blocked up in Geelong and i limped it home(was primary that blocked) 

 

there isn't much to those carbys, i think i put a link in My gemini thread that shows the circuits. i'll go find it later

 

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if you have time to read, this is pretty simple to understand compared to others i've read. 

 

its for the 38/38 weber (main differences are that it has 2 idle circuits and both throttles open together) i was told this is the next step up from the falcon carby.. bolts straight on where a 32/36 or 34 ADM came off but may need linkage/cable adapting again..

 

it will show the circuit for the jets to venturies etc 

 

http://www.theguestroom.net/manuals/38-38.pdf

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already ahead of you on that one :P 

i thought, fuck it have nothing to lose, so ive pulled the 32/36 apart while its on the car haha. bought a can of carby cleaner, and pulled all the jets out, and cleaned them. ive got a rebuild kit sitting there for the 32/36, so im doing a very rushed, impromptu rebuild of the 32/36 to make it run. if no luck, THEN ill revert back to the old carby.

 

ill chuckthe pics up when i get to the office.  

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so this is what i found in the fuel bowl. lots of dirt :o 

may explain why i couldnt get the car to run  nicely with the 32/36. 

FbYyCQX.jpg

 

these jets, in the circle were only finger tight, not even. i literally unwound it hand. possibly explains why there was fuel going in all random directions yesterday, because it wasnt sealing where it was supposed to be. 

 

KbTn4tB.jpg

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if i get this carby to work. i still have to work out the return for the choke. this is the carby i converted from automatic (water) to manual cable choke. the automatic choke doesnt need a return spring, but the manual does. and that thing that looks like a return spring on the inside of the choke lever/shaft (to the left of the carby body) is not a spring apparently 

 

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11 hours ago, deankdx said:

i'll lift the bonnet on mine later today and see if the secondary accelerator pump jet squirts.. i had a feeling it doesn't? 

 

bv4WQk0.jpg

 

 

yeah ok my venturis both just lifted out without force. they do however only back in one way. i tried just for science purposes, and they wont go in any other way. however that video you linked above, same deal the guy just lifted his out without force. I do know there is a special took that youre supposed to use, like a pulling tool to get them out. 

 

My accelerator pump jet definitely does have 2 nozzles. so squirts down both barrels, the other carby only has the one. 

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new diff good to go. just gotta swap them out and work out what bits ill retain off the existing diff.

KNJOVso.jpg

 

i got the 32/36 all finished and up and running sweet. BUT, the throttle cable, which I had shortened, is still too long...but in this case it has too much travel at the carby end :angry:

can see the shaft, and how much passed the cable end goes. 

WwBMcAE.jpg

 

funnily enough it lines up with a second hole in that plate, that second hole lines up with where the primary shaft for the smaller carby is. so im still out of luck with getting the 32/36 up and running. 

 

I have one more thing i can try. i can try using the stock cable, with the other rocker cover and looping it back around like i did with the other carby, but with the 32/36. so furious im still having issues. 

 

n7N88xA.jpg

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11 hours ago, hendrixhc said:

Time to be inventive with the throttle cable and work with what you have young Fella.

yep. i think im going to try going with Capri rocker cover like i had, and run the full length stock cable. 

 

ill just have to get a custom made cable at some stage. 

 

the whole idea behind going the short cable was so it would neaten the engine bay up, and hide the throttle linkages. 

 

at this stage, knowing i can go back to my original setup if need be, i need to get cracking on the diff tomorrow. 

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not sure what you mean? 

 

either way i think id have too much trouble with length of cable still. all i need to do is shorten the inner cable travel, and there isnt enough adjustment in the winder to back it off or take the slack up 

 

i still dont have a return spring for the choke either lol. so it doesnt go off at the moment

 

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i don't understand what you mean by having too much cable travel.. 

eg.. if you unclipped it from its current holder(that i circled) and held it lower and to the driver side a bit more.. would that take up the slack.. and if so.. it just needs a new holder "there" (make a bracket)

 

or does the current contraption change the pedal to carby ratio? 


actually, on My spare carby it's got a modded linkage, it might be exactly what you need?
back in a few mins with a pic

 

 

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11 hours ago, deankdx said:

not sure what the guy said this was off? but it was advertised as from an escort.

 

ZkfEJf1.jpg

he's welded so the original escort throttle thingo. 

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i hope that pic kinda of makes sense. basically if i hook the cable up as it is now, the pedal has huge slop in it inside the car, because i cant get any tension on it due to excess cable length

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can you still get full throttle with the pedal?

 

has the accelator pedal got a stop on it to adjust it down a bit(to take up the slack?) 

 

if you moved the cable holder further out, would it get full throttle before the floor(it would take the slack up if you made another cable holder further away)

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