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Panko

Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

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12 hours ago, deankdx said:

wheels look amazing!

 

interested to see it sitting in position regarding the other mounting tabs. 
but i'd go with this method 

 

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yeah that was my original plan. still might try it. 

 

If i remember correctly there was 2 tabs that bolt to the 1300 rocker cover, i assume would then bolt to those threads on the edge of the housing. will need to go find a photo of the stock engine bay 

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ok, so 1 tab bolted to the rear of the intake manifold, one towards the front of the intake manifold maybe, and then there is one that cant be seen, on the rocker cover. 

 

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Well the wheels are sorted. 

I had the tyres fitted and balanced, this morning. and got all new wheel nuts to suits. for $285. 

Unfortunately I had to be at work an hour earlier today, so I didnt have time to get the wheels on the car. I was planning to fit them and drive the escort to work today, but ran out of time. so they will be on the car this afternoon :D 

 

I also got a throttle cable to suit the new carby setup, but I am going to have to get it shortened. Its exactly what i needed (Mk1 inner cable Mk2 outer case) but it is about double the length that i need it, because it is an RS2000 cable (Pinto 2L into Mk1) 

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well here it is. 13s finally fitted to the car. 

 

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Ok so I am pretty wrapped with the way its come up. 

When i first fitted them and lowered the car down off the jack, i immediately wanted to put the 15s back on. i did not like them haha. 

but the more i look at the car, with the ride height, and the dish on the wheels, and the negative camber up front, the more I really like these wheels :D 

 

It has opened a new can of worms however :( 
Im going to remove the drums and paint them. it looks shocking now that I can see the rusty drums, and I desperately need to sort out some centre caps for the wheels. 

 

It drives much  much better. the vibration/shudder is 99% gone. its so minor now it feels like the road surface being rough is the only thing causing vibrations. however I am going to loosen all the tapered wheel nuts, and carefully do them up to make sure the wheels are properly seated and central on the hubs. otherwise, I am happy :D 

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Ha yeah! first thing i do with spoke wheels is paint everything black behind them(including brake calipers) 

does look good, i don't miss the interceptor look already either

 

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11 hours ago, deankdx said:

Ha yeah! first thing i do with spoke wheels is paint everything black behind them(including brake calipers) 

does look good, i don't miss the interceptor look already either

 

no im not entirely over the interceptor look either. and they are significantly lighter than the RS wheels too.  

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and this is why. the driver's side, i was like yeah its a noisy bearing or two, thats fine its been like it for as long as ive had the car...

 

 

 

 

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but then i went and check the passenger side....and holly shit i was not expecting that...

 

This noise explains a LOT. for some time now, ive not liked driving the car over 110km/h, and i dare say now, its probably because of this vvv. 
It also explains why when the wheels are hanging, the car prefers spinning the RH wheel, because the LH wheel is quite tight and hard to turn. 

Leading me to also think that it explains why recently the car has sometimes been hard to get moving, like the handbrake was nearly jammed on etc. and sometimes good. 

 

SO im pretty bummed right now. 10 days until the RSOCV Show and Shine in Geelong, and im chasing down a diff to try and get changed over with what little time i have during the week with work and all. 

 

 

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definitely doesn't sound happy .. i'd love to see what its issue is, i'd probably pull it apart.. wouldn't take long to get the axels out and diff cover off for a look 

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11 hours ago, deankdx said:

definitely doesn't sound happy .. i'd love to see what its issue is, i'd probably pull it apart.. wouldn't take long to get the axels out and diff cover off for a look 

 

its getting the axles back in that would be the issue lol. i suspect its bearings...i dont think its a broken axle...or is it? lol 

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the left one has symptoms of broken axel but i wouldn't expect the car to drive if so.. i'd say the spider gears are stuffed in the center if that's not making the tailshaft turn when other wheel is on the ground and you can rotate it..

what's so hard about putting axels back in? they aren't hydratrack ones(double splined)

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11 hours ago, deankdx said:

the left one has symptoms of broken axel but i wouldn't expect the car to drive if so.. i'd say the spider gears are stuffed in the center if that's not making the tailshaft turn when other wheel is on the ground and you can rotate it..

what's so hard about putting axels back in? they aren't hydratrack ones(double splined)

you might have hit the nail on the head. it might be the spider gears stuffed. 

 

i just remember when i popped the axles out of the old xf diff, it took forever to get the splines to line up and axles back in 

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Yeah but im not convinced its the bearings. 

 

Considing when i was spinning the lhr hub, im pretty sure nothing else was turning. To me i think something is broken. 

 

And it wouldnt turn when i was spun the other hub, or when i had the engine running and it in gear idling 

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11 hours ago, deankdx said:

i reckon pull it apart and take pics.. 

 

 

I havent got the time lol. And I do need to be able to put it back its wheels yet. because if i pull it apart now, I cant get the trailer out to go collect another diff. 

 

Nor can I get the wagon out, which is going off to the panel shop next weekend. 

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before i left for work i had another really quick play with the diff. the issue is definitely in the diff centre, not the axles. I locked 1 rear wheel at a time and spun the opposite wheel, and sure enough on both side there was the same noise and feeling. so Im guessing the gears in the centre are stuffed. 
as i said above, i cant pull the diff apart now, because i need to put the car back on its wheels, and even if i did, i  dont have the parts to put it back together, nor can I get the replacement parts now because I am working the rest of the today, and most of tomorrow. 

 

I do have some good news though :D 

 

My throttle cable for the new carby setup is ready to be picked up. I dropped it off this morning at the place in Croydon to be shortened, and they called me on the way to work to say it was ready. unfortunately I cant pick that up until monday now either :( 

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Ok so i put the car back on its wheels last night, washed it, and took it just around the block after drying it. 

 

it drives horribly. it feels like its got a locker in the diff. can hear it clunk and knock then all of a sudden like it unlocks. so im suspecting ive stripped some teeth, or broken something inside the diff and its floating about in the housing. 

 

doing some reading and talking with a couple guys from the RSOCV last night, it seems my car SHOULD be a 3.89:1 diff ratio. Manual sedans (and coupes) should all be 3.89:1, other than twin cam which were 3.77:1. Autos, and panelvans were all 4.11:1. BUT, it is known that they could be optioned with the 4.11:1 diff with the manual box. 

So i am definitely on the hunt for a 3.89 diff now. 

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ok diff sorted. 

 

picking up a 3.89 diff on monday night. 

 

catch is, i currently dont have a tow vehicle, so im leaving my car at my brother's place, and borrowing his LR Discovery 2, so i can tow my trailer to pick up the diff haha. 

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19 hours ago, deankdx said:

would have fit in the back of a mazda 6 probably.. 

 

you need to pull the old one apart though we have a need to see the blown bits

 

100% it would fit in the boot of the mazda. But im going to be doing this on my own. with a bad back, getting it out of the mazda at my house, on my own would be impossible pretty much. 

i figured in the trailer, i can lift 1 end down at a time onto stands, bolt a couple wheels onto it, and roll it around on its wheels. 

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