Ball joint seperators

[SLO247 1,713]

What type of ball joint seperators are you using on your X Series?

 

I've always used a fork type and it worked perfectly until today. I can't get the upper joint out of the upright.

 

Is it worth trying the claw type with the threaded bolt? This one is bloody stuck.

 

It's already had a good belting which hasn't helped.

[winton 399]

I've always just give cast metal a good wacking with a hammer. Could be time to apply heat.

[Crazy2287 1,886]

hmmm. i usually try to remove with hammer and dolly. If that dont work i go fork separator. if that don't work i get a bigger hammer. if it still don't come off i get my biggest hammer and belt it till something brakes... The joint, the fork, the hammer, or me. Something always gives 100% of the time Guaranteed something will separate.

 

I've never had to go as far as using heat but that might be what you gotta do if it really is that stuck? You have taken the nut off right? =P

[SLO247 1,713]

Yeah I checked the nut was off like 5 times haha. Fucking thing. I don't have heat, I'll try more belting tommorow.

 

I even put another bar over the fork handle and stood on it. Still didn't move!

[hendrixhc 10,918]

Go for a light tap all around the cast part to break the taper and then focus all your energy on one sharp blow to the thread and it will pop.

 

You need to focus though.

[FOMOCOHO 882]

There's an old fitter's trick with tapers. It works on tie-rod ends every time I find. Don't need a bigger hammer, just need two hammers (engineer's 2 pound is fine). I'm not sure if you can get to opposite sides on the upper ball joint from memory but if you can shock it at the same time with a blow from each side... this should expand the cast housing momentarily and break the seal. Then use your usual tools/method & it should come out.

[Valvebouncer 2,389]

Put a pipe through the lower arm and into the castor rod, get your fattest friend to stand on it. Now belt the living f&@k out of that top joint, it'll pop.

It's easier with the caliper and disc removed too- less things to hit with a stray hammer

[gerg 10,871]

+1 hammer & dolly. You can't just whack it from one side though. I like to get a decent thump-o-meter on the opposite side to where you're hitting so there's some inertia to hit against, otherwise the whole lot just bounces. If you must apply heat, don't go any more than a couple of hundred degrees otherwise you'll weaken the high strength metals.<br /><br /><br />Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FOMOCOHO 882]

+1 hammer & dolly. You can't just whack it from one side though. I like to get a decent thump-o-meter on the opposite side to where you're hitting so there's some inertia to hit against, otherwise the whole lot just bounces. If you must apply heat, don't go any more than a couple of hundred degrees otherwise you'll weaken the high strength metals.<br /><br /><br />Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

That's what i was trying to say gerg... 2 hammers be better than one, you 'ol fitter you! 

[Panko 2,480]

My grand father made a good one up. its a piece of running tube thread, with a bolt out each end. sit it between the two ball joints, and load it up by turning it, works as a spreader, then whack the ball joint housing your trying to crack with 2 hammers, 1 each side of the ball joint. it doesn't often crack the first time, so once you've got it to move a bit, load the spreader up again, and hit it again. usually cracks after 3 hits. i got all my original balls joints in the xf to crack in 1 or 2 hits. if it was in my garage id go grab a photo of the tool, but i think its in my grandfather's garage. 

[bear351c 10,270]

Bears motto

 

Long hammer - Short temper   

 

Dan, I have a butane torch here, and a fork, if you need it. 

[SLO247 1,713]

Torch may be the go, I'll try two hammers and or a dolly today. Need to grab that door handle off you anyway.

[SLO247 1,713]

I'll try again today, thanks for the all the tips.

[SLO247 1,713]

Well the two hammer trick worked, after a few good knocks I belted it out from underneath. Thanks

 

Now what do I use to knock the hub seals into the new discs? I can't remember how I used to do it, been many years and even then I think I used to damage the rubber a bit fitting them.

[FOMOCOHO 882]

Empty tomato/soup/whateva tin... upside down (ie open side against seal). Whichever you can find that sits in the middle of the seal. I think the 'champignon mushroom' tins are good (with or without butter sauce, doesn't matter! ) as they're only half height (so stronger). You'll need a new tin for each seal though as they will crush some.

[bear351c 10,270]

Or a large socket that "just" fits into the hub without the seal there. Or a piece of water pipe, or a stick......

[SLO247 1,713]

Turns out the seals had a flat rubber lip that fits over the outside of the hub. Just knocked them on with the dead blow, done perfectly. Don't look anything like the e series ones I've done in the past.

[hendrixhc 10,918]

Well the two hammer trick worked, after a few good knocks I belted it out from underneath. Thanks

 

Now what do I use to knock the hub seals into the new discs? I can't remember how I used to do it, been many years and even then I think I used to damage the rubber a bit fitting them.

 

 

What discs are you using?

[SLO247 1,713]

Just standard RDA.

[hendrixhc 10,918]

I gotta get some new brakes on the ute.

 

I been looking at  brand called Tora. They seem to be reasonably priced and get good reviews.

[SLO247 1,713]

I've just always used RDA as they are cheap on eBay. Never had a problem and have bearing cups already fitted. Usually fit slotted ones but the ute is light and has no power so I didn't bother.

[adrianphu123 73]

I used a pitman arm puller, broke it, sent it back under warranty and got a new. Used it again and it worked second time around