Crazy2287

Bluebetty - Crazy2287's boring build.

171 posts in this topic

So laying in bed this morn thinkin about having a sleep in and the mind wandered a bit. And for some reason i suddenly recalled i had a built C series head sitting in the cupboard that was destined to be part of a turbo build some 10 years ago, but the car it was going in got written off. And a thought. Nahh it will probably be low comp. But it's C series and Betty has an E1/2..... I have a spare head gasket.... And i can just replace all the other gaskets with goop... and reuse the head bolts. Nekminnit i was googling chamber CC's then i got a bit excited and popped out to the shed and pulled the head off.

Looked like it was just the water jacket at the back of number 6 and didnt look as though it had gotten into the cylinder, So i'm doubtful the head gasket was causing the stumbling issue.
Now i've never really knowen what the comp was on this engine, It was build when i got it and i've since just upgraded things along the way. Never had the head off. I'm kicking myself a bit for never pulling the head now, Because when i got it off it revealed an almost stock E2 head with a bit of port work and 110lb springs. 54cc chambers. Comp figure came in at 9.2:1

I pulled the other head down and dusted it off. C1A head, ported with 47mm intake and 40mm ex valves, 46.5cc chambers. It's not berzerk, but should be an improvement over the head i was using, and it's been sitting in the cupboard, for... 9 years. Legit. Still in the box since i brought it 9 years ago.
Numbers came in at 10.1:1
CC'd block at 22cc (Piston dish and deck height) So that could be all piston dish but i expect a small amount is deck height as it measured in a 0.25mm.

Annyyywayyyyyy. I'm broke, So i'm not buying any parts (Read: gaskets) so it's all going back together (hopefully) with lots-a goop. Wish me luck.
But feels good to finally be making use of this head. Little silly of me not to have done it sooner. I always just assumed it would be a low comp head as it was purchased for a boosted application.
 
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Just needs more cam now!! Haha

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

scottly likes this

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so it's like 90% of all my head gasket changes.. it'll be fine! (intake gasket is important to seal well, rest ... she'll be right)

Crazy2287 likes this

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21 minutes ago, Crazy2287 said:

Yeah I'll butcher a cereal box or something and make  an intake one. 

fancy.. i usually gooped over the old one and stuck it back on.. 

2redrovers and Valvebouncer like this

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My old one came out in multiple pieces. In the end I gave the intake a hit with a flat Stone and gooped it on. Good enough.

Special mention to Arrow18who hooked me up with some exhaust gaskets.

Lifter preload was 0.8-1.2mm, bit on the high side but it is in the "norm" which is 0.5-1.5 and I only checked 5 as I didn't feel like fucking around too much. And I certainly didn't want to make shims. They need to make post shims, or shim washers to suit as making them out of sheet takes ages.

Got it back together run up to temp, retorque head bolts and changed oil. Took it  for a drive at 1030pm, (big day) and it's sill stumbeling and running like a bitch. Over fueling badly so I'll need to track that down. First point to check will be fuel pressure.

There is an issue with the TPS as well. Dodgy wire at the plug. Sends the ECU into flood clear and can't start the car. 

Was keen to got for a drive but it wasn't meant to be. 

Arrow18 and deankdx like this

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i know the pain, i'll be on "test drive if the car is finished" tomorrow, not doing dark test drive's anymore.. been burned too many times

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Well I got the flex fuel sensor and fuel pressure sensor plumbed in and hooked up. Pretty neat install, looks good but I had crazy fuel oscillations on the fuel pressure sensor.

Did some troubleshooting thought maybe it was fuel pressure regulator. So I plugged in a standard fuel pressure Reg in place of the filter pressure reg. That problem remained. 

After a bit of research and some questions turns out it's likely I have fuel pressure fluctuations due to the noise created by The Injectors.

Since my whole fuel system is now either PTFE flexible line or Hardline there is no rubber hose to dampen the effect of The Injectors opening and closing. And this pressure fluctuation makes the pressure gauge unreadable while the injectors are operating.

This situation is usually negated because of the fuel rail having the fuel pressure regulator close to or attached directly to it. And the fuel pressure regulator dampens these oscillations. since my fuel pressure regulator is installed near the tank and my fuel rail is a dead head system I've ticked all the boxes to cause this issue.

So if this diagnosis is correct the next step is to install a fuel injection dampener on the fuel rail. 

So i will fix this before I go ahead and fix the other running issue as they may be compounding.

Tps sensor fixed, it was a broken wire.

And that is that for a few weeks. I'll get back to it when money and mojo permits.

Slow250XC, ando76, Thom and 1 other like this

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Yeah, I'd never heard if it either but some of the EFI gurus pointed me in the right direction. 

Ordered a damper. Heard nothing for 3 days. Called em like "oi where's my tracking info" and they like, "yeah nah we didn't have stock so it's on order can expect it Thursday next week" 

Thanks for telling me cunts. Fkn shit humans. 

Anyway. Got the Innovate ECF1 wired in and wideband into the ecu. Reflashed an old map from Feb onto the ECU and set a heap of settings to make it all good.  (Thanks Dan) Took it for a drive and it's running good again. So it might have just been something wrong in the tune. Annoyingly the wideband is throwing low voltage errors so that's thing. 

In the arvy I might get it put back together, do some more tweaking on the ecu and have another attempt at taking it for a drive. Use it for work duties.

deankdx and Valvebouncer like this

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 i ripped into an ebay mob last week because i bought something i expected them not to have.. asked in advance, do you have "this" in stock now i need it for the quoted delivery time(dyno booked) yeah it's fine, we have multiple suppliers..
pretty much get a message on the last day of the delivery window saying they can't supply it FUUUU.. left them a negative feedback and they've messaged me about 5 times trying to get me to reconsider(they had a lot of similar feedback, so fuck them, should have it in stock if it's for sale)

rant over, 
hope it goes well, what's likely to be the low voltage error cause?

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Yeah Dean ist fkn dishonest and pisses me right off. I paid more to buy it from an Australian seller so I'd get it sooner. And the cunts are importing it anyway. Makes me bonkers.

Additionally, the first person I tried to buy from was an eBay seller, and they refunded me the next day and said it wasent in stock so that was another delay there.

I'll name and shame too, it was this mob:

https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/fuel-pulse-damper

 

As for low voltage error cause, I really don't know. I am very fussy with wiring so it shouldn't be that and a quick check with voltmeter showed it was getting 13v so I really am not sure. Kinda hoping it sorts itself out. Kek

deankdx likes this

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Successfully completed daily drive duties today and will be employed in much the same tomorrow. Seems to be going well. Can't tell if it's faster but seems to get to 6krpm easier. 

Feels good to he rolling in it after so long. And no permit restrictions.

Thom and deankdx like this

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Did not do anywhere near as much driving as i'd have liked to. had to go to the shed and pull 4x4's apart, doing a rodeo up as a farm rig and it's got issues with it's RH Front CV Axle. though i had spares but turns out the older Jackaroo driveline had thicker axles, Ended up wasting most the arvo chasing that.... Moving on.

Couple of piccys for what ails ya.

Finished the fuel level sensing circuit:
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New head:

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Going on

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If anyone cares, The thermostat mod (4 holes) so it works properly with electric water pump
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and some brackets and what not for fitting the flex fuel.

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what's the need for the 4 holes on the elec water pump? does it cavitate when no flow at all ?
what's the restrictor fitted for? on the heater return hose

i hadn't taken enough notice of the ports and throats on heads to know how different it is(can see it's been hand ported) but i do notice the XR GLEN stamping though.. 

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It allows a small flow past the thermostat to get to the temp sensor for the water pump controller. Without the thermostat it won't warm up fast enough to satisfy the controller and the pump goes into failure mode. Pump on full. Thermo fans on. And the car will never warm up. Additionally, it improves the response rate of the thermostat.

Additionally, the thermostat creats the pressure difference required to get hot water to flow through the heater core. 

The restrictor limits the water flow through the heater core, otherwise it can cause issue 1, or cool shock the engine when you turn the heater on.

deankdx likes this

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I'd be interested to know if the OEM factory thermostats had a jiggle pin in them - like your bypass holes.

I know with e-series, the originals (Made in England by Waxstat) had a jiggle pin, but the 'genuine' Ford stats available now,
do not have a bypass hole of any sort.

Never trust thermostats these days... I've tested a few aftermarket brands, in a pan on the stove.
Their tolerances in both opening temps, and physical operation, are quite varied - even with several of the same specs from the same brand.

Interestingly, I too had a funny issue with some QFM pads a few yrs ago. They had some funny extra pins on the backing plate, which stopped them from fitting.
In my case, QFM sent out replacements without any fuss.
They used to be Australian made, but I think they're made in Thailand, Malaysia or similar, now.

bear351c likes this

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I had never seen em with jiggle valves in them till the last few years. The jiggles are just for air bleed, as soon as the air is finished bleedin, the water pushes the juggler into, and blocks the hole. 

Crossflow never needed this jigglepin because the air bleed is the top bolt of the thermostat. And it's procedure to bleed air out of the system at this bolt whenever air is in the system.

I'm always careful when I assume to know more than the Engineers that design things. But this is it one of those things I'm confident with.

If it has a jingle pin cut it off and leave the hole. If it doesn't have a Hole or a jigglepin, drill a small 2 mm hole. A single hole will do for a standard system I only drilled 4 holes because of the electric water pump.

It allows water to slowly flow through the system and will give the thermostat a more accurate representation of engine temperature and improve it's response. Every time I have done this when having issues with thermostats lagging this has fixed it and I've had this problem several times in the various Falcons I've owned over the years. as long as you install so the hole is uppermost, It will have the bonus of bleeding the system as well so you don't have to worry about pulling the top bolt to bleed anymore.

bear351c and deankdx like this

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I to have always drilled a hole opposite the 'widget'. Never had an issue on the race or burnout car. The ewp instructions didn't sit well with me. No thermostat at all is not the go.  I'm doing a similar thing to you on THOR as I want the engine to actually get some heat in it. I seem to recall that they have amended their instructions on the latest kits to exactly what you have done.  

Crazy2287 and SPArKy_Dave like this

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