Measurement required

[ando76 4,354]

Fellow corty people. I need a measurement off a stock TD corty.  Mine has some dodgy solid engine mounts and I need to know the clearance between the sump and crossmember/ steering rack.

 

 

 

Photos to show the area I am talking about. Thanks in anticipation.

[gerg 10,871]

Sorry Ando mine's long gone but I know V12 Jag mounts bolt in, and they're just fatter versions of the stock round ones, you know the ones that look like hockey pucks with a stud top and bottom.

[gerg 10,871]

Another thing, those engine brackets don't look Cortina. I remember mine having the bracket wrap over one or two of the bolts and how much of a total bitch it was to remove. Could be wrong as mine was TF.

[ando76 4,354]

Cheers mate. I'll be making a Cortina version of the 'Ryno' XF engine mounts. Don't think stock ones will cut it in this application. I want to raise the engine up a bit on the corty cause I'm running webers so bonnet clearance isn't an issue.

 

The mounts on it now are how I got the car and to me the engine seems to be sitting a bit too low. Was just after the stock measurement so I could work out where I'm at.

 

Jag parts finally being useful - love it.

[gerg 10,871]

I know the clearance was pretty tight from sump to crossmember, less than an inch from memory.

 

Yeah you need to make them strong, I broke 3 lots of stock mounts before going to the Jag ones (which also fitted Range Rovers) then no trouble after that. The Ryno ones use spring shackle rubbers right?

[ando76 4,354]

This one is just about sitting on the sump. When I did the prototype for Brendon's new race sump (Te corty) there was way more.

 

Yeah ryno mounts use a shackle bush with an 18mm bolt thru the centre. Rob hasn't broken his yet so I reckon I'll be right. I want a solid style mount cause I think the torque twist will be huge. Well it better be or I'll sack the engine builder

[wagoon 2,429]

The Ryno ones use spring shackle rubbers right?

Yeah they were landcruiser 60 series shackle bushes but only cause that's what was around, you could use a smaller size bush as the 18mm high tensile bolts can be a pain to source as 18mm bolts aren't all that common.

 

Ando is there enough room to get at the bolt from underneath? Could you use the cylinder than holds the "rubbers" then weld on a solid block then drill and tap the block underneath for that hidden bolt look? Pair of 1/2 inch bolts should hold it down as it might strip the thread if only one bolt is used due to the torque.

[wagoon 2,429]

Cheers mate. I'll be making a Cortina version of the 'Ryno' XF engine mounts.

I think these cortina mounts may be more popular than the Ryno mounts

[ando76 4,354]

Yeah is was looking at something like that, similar to the ones they do for the LS engines.

 

I just need the stock measurement so I can have a play. It's going to effect what I do with the stud girdle and tray on THOR. I could just bolt on the asr corty sump I have here for the dyno but that's not my style

[gerg 10,871]

 

The Ryno ones use spring shackle rubbers right?

 

 

Yeah they were landcruiser 60 series shackle bushes but only cause that's what was around, you could use a smaller size bush as the 18mm high tensile bolts can be a pain to source as 18mm bolts aren't all that common.

 

How about a Falcon one (crazy I know).... it would take about 5000Nm of torque to snap a pair of those shackle pins lol.... The through-bolts on a Falcon mount are only 7/16" and never heard of them going. 18mm is a bit of overkill really

 

I want a solid style mount cause I think the torque twist will be huge. Well it better be or I'll sack the engine builder

 

Careful you might have the little Corty spinning and the crankshaft sitting still

[ando76 4,354]

Yep overkill but the main issue is Chs nominal bore sizing to suit the OD of the falcon bush. Trust me I just looked at this as I have some new neo shackle bushes for the shop ute and the OD does not correspond to anything commercially available. It's looking like I am going over to Allan's lathe to make some to suit smaller NB CHS.

Most of the speedway boys want the shit as light as possible but still strong enough to do the job so I think I'll just spend a day over on the lathe and turn a heap of bushes up.

 

BUT I still need the bloody measurement.... Might have to post on FB. Seems as tho it's the quickest way these days. Bloody modern tech.

[PRO250 1,506]

From the centre of the sump to the rack is 2 inches I will also add the factory crossflow sump in a late factory crossy Cortina is not the same as all Cortina sumps theres a pressed section to clear the rack you fit a stock sump theres less the a inch there

my blown car has spun alloy mounts and a bolted straight thru it. my last one was chained and ended up ripping the mount points off the block so its mounted so it will not move at all

webbers fit the engine bay fine if you don't run ramair pod style filters I run trumpets and they clear fine althow in a TE you need to mod the section the heaterbox sits on just a little tap sorts it out

as for twisting fit a antiroll bar it will also stop the chassis eating the power the engine makes mine went from 1.68 to 1.56 with this mod and I was still running 3.5 diff gears at that point so it boggied out of the hole for a stock corty rearend

 

[wagoon 2,429]

18mm is a bit of overkill really

Yes it is, just how I like it. I would rather the extra couple of hundred grams in weight for the thicker bolts and thicker bushes for the knowledge that they will never ever need looking at again.

[ando76 4,354]

I'm cool with the chassis twisting at the front as that will be part of th fun. I don't plan on running a front sway bar for this reason and also to allow a bit more capacity in the sump.

 

Ok mine has 3.5 inches from pan rail to the rack (as shown in the first picture) but it appears to be hanging on the rack. Think I'll just lift it to the point I need and be done with it. As long as it has some clearance around the trans tunnel I guess it will be fine.

 

Thanks Dave.

[PRO250 1,506]

That's a fair bit the engine must be poking out the bonnet LOL

The twist will kill the body fix the issue straight up and it will not damage it that and it will 60 harder and if its gains 1 10th in the 60 it will gain 2 10ths up the top, all mine have gained a few MPH from it as well, its a must do mod there not like a falcon where the body can support the power they cant take more then a 2litre these things, that or a footy ball in the drivers side I did that for a few months, simple and stops the body diping on the launch mine kept poping the ball and is why I changed to the bar LOL

Has it had the top arm mounts reinforced? do that to. its very hard to save them after it rips the bolt thru the rails ive fixed so many its not funny, so many I make a repair kit for them  3mm angle stiched into the floor, and a 3mm plate on the other side of the rail so if it pulls the mount off the floor it cant pull the bolt thru the rail


The only thing better then a corty is a capri  





 

[gerg 10,871]

That stupid heater box... About 2.7 seconds after I found out my core was leaking, I threw it as far as I could. Installed a boat engine bay blower fan and an auto trans cooler as a heater core, it actually worked!

 

18mm bolts... Not so much about too much strength but I just have bad memories of accessing things in the engine bay, making things bigger just cramps it all up a bit more that's all.

[gerg 10,871]

the OD does not correspond to anything commercially available. It's looking like I am going over to Allan's lathe to make some to suit smaller NB CHS.

 

At a pinch you could bend up some 8 x 50 flat bar into an outer sleeve for the shackle bushes to go into... Just a thought.

[wagoon 2,429]

That stupid heater box... About 2.7 seconds after I found out my core was leaking, I threw it as far as I could. Installed a boat engine bay blower fan and an auto trans cooler as a heater core, it actually worked!

 

18mm bolts... Not so much about too much strength but I just have bad memories of accessing things in the engine bay, making things bigger just cramps it all up a bit more that's all.

That heater idea is a cool one.

 

As for 18mm bolt the engine mount is almost the exact same size as the factory falcon mount. Obviously the cortina mount is different to the falcon mount but only in the lower half. The top half which attaches to the block is the widest part of the mount.

Its not to hard to make your own mounts as the tuff mount brand prove as they are a really basic design.

[Thom 6,650]

You could go for some flathead engine mounts

We've run them in my old man's a model for years they seem to be up to the task

[slydog 7,873]

This car leaves on stock style mounts and no anti roll bar and runs bottom 1.5 60ft's and goe's bottom 11's.

 

 

 

Stoodley's undercar with a anti roll bar...

 

 

 

Jason's car with the bar fitted goe's mid to high 1.6's in the 60ft to run mid 11's but leaves ALOT squarer and more consistently.

 

I know Mossy is keen on a anti roll bar but only to tame the car and assist launch as it's blowing the tyres off it with the new engine HP currently. A 90/10 like a Calvert or custom unit from Comp Engines used with a soft long travel spring and proper rear end set-up will see it run fast consistently.

[ando76 4,354]

The engine actually sits really low in the bay and it dead set looks like it is resting on the sump. With my stud girdle I'm going to need a bit more height, but it's looking like I won't be able to run the complete stud girdle. No biggy.

 

I'm far from getting the car set up for racing but I do appreciate all the help and assistance. Yeah Dave the top mounts have been strengthened already and the lowers boxed. It has been set up as a drag car and raced before I got it. It ran some decent times by all accounts.

 

I have some adjustable QA1 rear shocks for it and I will throw it on the scales as I'm building it. I have a pretty good idea on where I am going to place stuff to try and get the best weights I can and to help it hook up.

[PRO250 1,506]

a stock corty rearend will go 9s if the engine can push it and most will run in the 1.5s with next to no work it will be hard to push the car with such a small engine but you should still see 1.7s 1.6s easy enough if its geared and convertored right

the fact it was a drag car just run with it it may 60 hard as it is and good the rearend is already fiddled I fixed one last year it had not been raced big wizzor it riped the top left arm off the floor good thing he can use a welder

[ando76 4,354]

THOR the roller cam is going to live in the corty bud. It's by no means small. Should be god for over 400@ the crank. Time will tell