Lord_fahrquhar 2,580 Posted December 8, 2016 Would it be wrong to say that shit should be on pornhub? 2 slydog and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy2287 1,886 Posted December 8, 2016 The injectors don't need to be bottomed out to seal, Even from factory you can move em up and down. Think i got about 1mm or so in mine with the new rail. It probably helps seat them, having them floating as opposed to having a tight longitudinal fit and potentially loaded when things are bolted down, changing temp and/or flexing. 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted December 8, 2016 Yeah crazy, it's more the fact that when the rail goes on now the first two injectors get screwed around and don't seat nice. These little Bosch units actually have lugs on the rail side which should be seated on the injector boss. It's not happening due to difference in injector position. It's a bit hard to put into pictures and words, but when you see it in real life it's just not right. 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted February 27, 2017 Time for an update. FUEL RAIL PORN! 10 Thom, scottly, Slow250XC and 7 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted February 27, 2017 Keen eyes will observe the zincaneal panel on the firewall. Well it had to go in for a reason. Those that have fitted big webers or itbs to corty know how close the last throttle body goes to hitting the standard firewall at the heater matrix area. My corty had been belted with a hammer to make the 45mm webers fit, so the 48mm Jenveys had no chance. Plus like most corty's, mine is rusty. Some would say too rusty - but I don't have a problem with rust and enjoy cutting it out and welding new steel in. I could have started with a better body, but that would have just taken a good road car off the road. This one was already a drag car so it makes sense to me to fix it and leave the good ones for the restorers. Anyway enough words. Here is what I started with. 3 Thom, Valvebouncer and ricktewagon reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted February 27, 2017 So I cut it out and also modified the area behind the head so I can actually get to the top bell housing bolts. I made this piece as a start. It gave enough clearance for the throttle body and tps, but of course it wasn't that simple. No. 6 ram horn was too close for comfort and as I want to run an air box. This had to be fixed. 2 ricktewagon and Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted February 27, 2017 The problem child was this little 'step up' in the chassis rail/ inner guard junction So I hatched a plan to remove it and weld in a new piece with a nice angle to mate to the inner guard in that area. Bit of 3mm plate (original chassis was 2.5mm) bent to shape Then weld, grind and hey presto 4 Valvebouncer, ricktewagon, Thom and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted February 27, 2017 So when it's all said and done this is how it looks. Still a bit more to go, but it looks and functions way better now. I actually was focusing on the last couple of things I needed to do to complete the engine, like sump, alternator and vac pumps mounts etc etc. as usual I got distracted, but not really. It was all work that needed to be done at some time. I'm going to make the mounts for the ecu and cdi and weld them to the replacement firewall panel before I weld the panel in. Much easier to weld them on the bench than inside the car. "Why is it taking you so long to get this car going?" "Cause I'm old, slow and fussy and I only like doing things once!" 11 Crazy2287, Mixalis, judgetread and 8 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MNTL.XD 3,831 Posted February 27, 2017 Coming along nice, much better off doing it right first shot, even if it does take a little longer, it will be justified in the finished product. Great work removing the risen section, looks like it was never there. I'm keen to see the cool body work start. Hehe. ************************************* Click on the link below to view my build thread. http://www.ozfalcon....l-xd-the-build/ 3 ricktewagon, ando76 and deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted February 27, 2017 Yeah the body work will be fun. The 80's pumped rear guards are staying as they are part of the personality of the car. It will be mini tubbed as well so I can run the big tyre I want. Hope to have more regular updates as I have a bit more of a re-structure at work. Fun times ahead. 7 ricktewagon, Valvebouncer, scottly and 4 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted February 28, 2017 Brackets made for ecu, cdi and '1 gauge' brain. Got them welded on and dummy fitted. Happy with the results. Mainly as they are hidden from direct view. 7 Arrow18, Mixalis, Thom and 4 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
broken-wheel 659 Posted February 28, 2017 you using rubber grommets ? coming along nicely! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted February 28, 2017 For the wiring loom or the brackets. Brackets have their bases welded to the replacement panel. The little arms that grab the sides of the ecu and cdi have a bit of flex in them. Enough to dampen any vibrations to a point. Interestingly they come with solid feet so you can screw them to a kick panel etc. All I can think is that they have better vibration resistance than an msd etc. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted March 1, 2017 All welded in. Decided to make the drivers side in-fill piece in 3 sections due to the complexity of the shapes. Came up not too bad. Remember this is not a Summernats top 60 car, I just want it to look reasonable and function well. Bit of a grind and sand, bit of filler here and there and she will come up a treat. Now that all that is done I can actually get back to building the sump and brackets for alt and vac pump. Yahoo. 5 blu xe, deankxf, Thom and 2 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted March 2, 2017 Couldn't help myself and gave it a quick grind/ sand. Pretty happy. Got a heap more room around the back of the head now. Can easily get to the top bell housing bolts and will have plenty of room for the supplementary oil return and balance piping. Once the rocker cover goes on you can't even see the blend. 5 Valvebouncer, Thom, MNTL.XD and 2 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy2287 1,886 Posted March 2, 2017 Nice. Them coils look suspiciously like a branded version of the IGN-1CD .... https://www.diyautotune.com/product/ign-1cd-capacitive-discharge-coil/ 1 Arrow18 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted March 2, 2017 Yes yes they do, but they have slightly better (advertised) resistance from memory Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt_lamb_160 252 Posted March 12, 2017 Looks good Ando. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted March 12, 2017 Cheers mate. Not getting much time on it but trying to change that. 2 wemsoi and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted June 11, 2017 ando i have to buy a cam for my crossy from tighe any idea's which solid ? street/strip and manual tran's. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites