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The injectors don't need to be bottomed out to seal, Even from factory you can move em up and down. Think i got about 1mm or so in mine with the new rail. It probably helps seat them, having them floating as opposed to having a tight longitudinal fit and potentially loaded when things are bolted down, changing temp and/or flexing.

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Yeah crazy, it's more the fact that when the rail goes on now the first two injectors get screwed around and don't seat nice. These little Bosch units actually have lugs on the rail side which should be seated on the injector boss. It's not happening due to difference in injector position.

It's a bit hard to put into pictures and words, but when you see it in real life it's just not right.

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Keen eyes will observe the zincaneal panel on the firewall. Well it had to go in for a reason. Those that have fitted big webers or itbs to corty know how close the last throttle body goes to hitting the standard firewall at the heater matrix area.

 

My corty had been belted with a hammer to make the 45mm webers fit, so the 48mm Jenveys had no chance. Plus like most corty's, mine is rusty. Some would say too rusty - but I don't have a problem with rust and enjoy cutting it out and welding new steel in. I could have started with a better body, but that would have just taken a good road car off the road. This one was already a drag car so it makes sense to me to fix it and leave the good ones for the restorers.

 

Anyway enough words. Here is what I started with.

 

IMG_1141.jpg

 

IMG_1142.jpg

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So I cut it out and also modified the area behind the head so I can actually get to the top bell housing bolts.

 

IMG_1147.jpg

 

I made this piece as a start.

 

IMG_1150.jpg

 

It gave enough clearance for the throttle body and tps, but of course it wasn't that simple.

 

IMG_1155.jpg

 

No. 6 ram horn was too close for comfort and as I want to run an air box. This had to be fixed.

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The problem child was this little 'step up' in the chassis rail/ inner guard junction

 

IMG_1154.jpg

 

So I hatched a plan to remove it and weld in a new piece with a nice angle to mate to the inner guard in that area.

 

IMG_1161.jpg

 

Bit of 3mm plate (original chassis was 2.5mm) bent to shape

 

IMG_1163.jpg

 

Then weld, grind and hey presto

 

IMG_1164.jpg

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So when it's all said and done this is how it looks.

 

IMG_1168.jpg

 

IMG_1167.jpg

 

Still a bit more to go, but it looks and functions way better now. I actually was focusing on the last couple of things I needed to do to complete the engine, like sump, alternator and vac pumps mounts etc etc. as usual I got distracted, but not really. It was all work that needed to be done at some time.

 

I'm going to make the mounts for the ecu and cdi and weld them to the replacement firewall panel before I weld the panel in. Much easier to weld them on the bench than inside the car.

 

"Why is it taking you so long to get this car going?"

 

"Cause I'm old, slow and fussy and I only like doing things once!"

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Coming along nice, much better off doing it right first shot, even if it does take a little longer, it will be justified in the finished product. Great work removing the risen section, looks like it was never there.

I'm keen to see the cool body work start. Hehe.

 

*************************************

Click on the link below to view my build thread.

http://www.ozfalcon....l-xd-the-build/

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Yeah the body work will be fun. The 80's pumped rear guards are staying as they are part of the personality of the car. It will be mini tubbed as well so I can run the big tyre I want.

Hope to have more regular updates as I have a bit more of a re-structure at work. Fun times ahead.

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For the wiring loom or the brackets. Brackets have their bases welded to the replacement panel. The little arms that grab the sides of the ecu and cdi have a bit of flex in them. Enough to dampen any vibrations to a point. Interestingly they come with solid feet so you can screw them to a kick panel etc. All I can think is that they have better vibration resistance than an msd etc.

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All welded in. Decided to make the drivers side in-fill piece in 3 sections due to the complexity of the shapes. Came up not too bad. Remember this is not a Summernats top 60 car, I just want it to look reasonable and function well. Bit of a grind and sand, bit of filler here and there and she will come up a treat.

 

Now that all that is done I can actually get back to building the sump and brackets for alt and vac pump. Yahoo.

 

IMG_1173.jpg

 

IMG_1175.jpg

 

IMG_1176.jpg

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Couldn't help myself and gave it a quick grind/ sand. Pretty happy.

 

IMG_1178.jpg

 

 

IMG_1179.jpg

 

Got a heap more room around the back of the head now. Can easily get to the top bell housing bolts and will have plenty of room for the supplementary oil return and balance piping.

 

IMG_1181.jpg

 

Once the rocker cover goes on you can't even see the blend.

 

IMG_1180.jpg

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