THOR

[Outback Jack 6,352]

Keep pluggin away Ando!

Happy New Year mate.

Hope that Crossy hits the dyno and gives ya some cool feedback.

 

Jack.

 

Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

[ando76 4,354]

Cheers men. I'm busting to hear it run as well. With the comp, cam and webers it's going to be animal

[CHESTNUTXE 7,302]

What studs did you use on the caps ,and is there any benefit of fitting a girdle on this beast m8.

[ando76 4,354]

They are Miloden 302W windage tray studs. Come in a pack of four. Cheaper than ARP and they actually have arp nuts on them. Go figure.

The benefit of the stud girdle is the increased rigidity/strength of the bottom end. I've never grout filled my blocks, I just use the girdle. It relies on two basic engineering principles, clamping force and bridging. If you have ever seen an old caravan a frame you might have seen bridging. It basically makes the steel strength equal to the depth of the steel from top to bottom - without the weight.

Xr6 turbo run a very similar girdle and au gas motors also had something similar.

My girlies are made of 3mm steel but end up 4.5mm when the windage tray is attached to it. There are thicker girdles out there and they sell well cause they look tough as, but it makes me wonder if they really need to be that thick.

I will have to modify my usual design as the td corty is a bit different in the steering rack and crossmember to the Te tf just from eye balling it.

Once the engine dummy assemble is complete I'll get the corty into work and throw it up on the hoist and come up with something. I like building sumps and for this engine I'm going to try something a little different.

[CHESTNUTXE 7,302]

ok are you using the std sump or modified for the girdle ?

[ando76 4,354]

To run the girdle you have to modify the sump. I make sumps as part of my business so it's no biggy. This sort of engine dictates more oil volume anyway so a modified sump is a must.

[ando76 4,354]

Good luck with the build Ando, heading over to delete my account now

Thanks mate.

[CHESTNUTXE 7,302]

ok cool,ive never owned a corty but are the same sumps used on cortys and falcons ?

[ando76 4,354]

No mate. Very different. Rear hump oil reservoir as opposed to front hump and big u in the middle to account for the x member/ steering rack

[gerg 10,871]

ok cool,ive never owned a corty but are the same sumps used on cortys and falcons ?

 

Nah Cortys have the rack before the crossmember (like a Torana) so the deep part of the sump sits at the back. They need a Pre-XE block for the dipstick as well, and a special pickup that mounts on one of the main caps (number 5 I think) and uses special bolts with studs on them.

[ando76 4,354]

Yes and when you use an 86da block - remember to drill the dipstick hole into the block (the pad is still cast into them for the hole) BEFORE you finish cleaning the block for assembly. 

 

Yes I forgot and was on the final wash when I remembered.  Doesn't matter now because I have to do it all again after I dig into the block for lifter clearance at no.12 lifter.

 

Oh and TD TC have castor bars that go forward (like xe/xf) and TE TF Cortina have them going to the rear.  This creates clearance issues for big pans on TE/TF's.  ASR and the other sump companies make aftermarket sumps for them - but I like making my own gear.

[ando76 4,354]

Got a bit more done on THOR today. With the camshaft all dialled in it was time to check Piston to Valve (P2V). Before I put the head on I like to mathematically check P2V. Its just a series of measurements and knowing your actual lift at TDC and a few other things. The reason I check the math first is to make sure I am not going to have clearance issues when I wind the motor over. Valves contacting pistons are never good.

 

Forgot to take a photo of the plasticine on top of the piston. Couple of tips here. Make sure the top of the piston is clean and once you have it all laid out, put a bit of oil on top of the plasticine to ensure it does not stick to the valve.

 

 

Then is just a matter of setting the lash to what you intend to run and winding the motor over. I like to check pushrod geometry while I am going. I mark the tops of the valves with red marker pen as I find it a bit easier to see than black.

 

 

Wind the motor over and the valves make an impression in the plasticine that you can then cut and measure. I have .120" on the intake and a mile on the exhaust. Most builders recommend a minimum of.080" on the intake and .110" on the exhaust.

 

My pushrod geometry is good with standard length pushrods but the intake pushrods are contacting the back of rockers. Yella Terra have big shafts and bearings which makes the backs contact 3/8 pushrods. I'm using 3/8 pushrods on THOR for reliability. The easiest fix will be a set of 270 degree pushrods. Like these old XC units.

 

 

I'll order a set on Monday and a few other bits and pieces.

[ando76 4,354]

Once I finished all the checks it was time to pull it all apart again so that I could clearance grind no.12 lifter. Of course that meant going through the whole cleaning regime again.

 

I was happy to pull the bearings out and see that they are as good as gold. No scores or marks from crude. I actually hooked an oil pump up to the motor when all the pistons and lifters were in and put some oil in a plastic container and ran the pump up. Just another anal thing I like to do.

 

 

So after clearance grinding a checking that the lifter tie bar was not going to hit, and cleaning again, it was time to assemble. Took way less time this time thanks to all the checks having been done.

 

So here she sits. Need to get a sump, oil pump and pick up made. Also need to fit the ATI balancer, crank trigger and vac pump drive so I can start making the alternator/ vac pump mount. Getting there slowly.

 

[CHESTNUTXE 7,302]

what sort of head studs are you using ? arp ?

[ando76 4,354]

Yep ARP head studs, washers and bolts. I bought the studs individually from Summit when the dollar was good.

[CHESTNUTXE 7,302]

yeah ok but are they for a ford or chev ? 

[ando76 4,354]

They are just a set length 7/16 stud sold individually.  It was cheaper to buy them like that - rather than trying to get a 'ford' or 'chev' kit.

 

Performance Wholesale in Brisbane sell them as a crossflow kit - but as usual with them they charge a kidney so I went looking for options.

 

I can get the part no. for you on Monday if you like.

[CHESTNUTXE 7,302]

being a alloy head what are you winding them too ?about 60 ft-lbs ?

[ando76 4,354]

Factory specs mate. Been doing it that way for many years without an issue. Same as most guys on the forum here who run them.

[broken-wheel 659]

yeah ok but are they for a ford or chev ? 

INLET - ARP 400-2403 these are carb stud kits you need 3

EXH - ARP 435-2101

CAM PALTE - ARP 234-1001

FLEXPALTE - ARP 200-2302

SUMP STUDS - ARP 245-1901

ARP HEAD STUD - AR5-250-1LB

ARP HEAD STUD WASHER - APW1316N

ARP HEAD STUD NUT - APN12-1

ARP MAINS STUD - I use the Ford 300Ci, they are longer and work with up to 5mm girdle

[rocklord 6]

Thanks broken-wheel, just what I was needing.

[ando76 4,354]

Thanks for posting those part numbers up mate. I intended to do a complete part number list for Thor when I finished. You just saved me some work.

[ando76 4,354]

Bit more progress. Couple of fittings welded on. One on the back of the head for my supplementary oil drain and 2 on the rocker cover.

 

 

 

Front fitting will go to the vacuum pump and the rear fitting will go down to the fuel pump block off and act as a balance tube. This is a good idea when running a vacuum pump. Gauge tapped into the middle is to measure vacuum. I have an adjustable relief on the vac pump so this way I can accurately measure the vacuum being pulled out.

 

 

Got the Red Zone roller lifter fitted into the block for the last time. Plenty of clearance now and despite having a different tie bar set up to the comp units, they were very easy to install.

 

 

Fitted my last ever ACL Race series head gasket. Love the look and function of these things. Shame we can't get them anymore.

[ando76 4,354]

Still plenty more to do. Should get the balancer back from my mate who is making a spigot to positively locate the crank trigger wheel and vacuum pump drive mandrel. Once I have all that I can start fabricating the alternator and vac pump mount.

 

Getting there slowly.

[gerg 10,871]

I seem to remember someone on here (sorry in advance, can't remember who) who said that 308 head studs are a straight-fit. Does that ring a bell with anyone?