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2redrovers

My cars and whatever's in the shop now etc.

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Have to catch up again. After filling that little modified bit under the guard I looked at the guard itself. Cleaned up the front corner and found I didn't have to repair rust like the other side.
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Might be hard to pick there but what I've done is hammer the factory join smooth so there's no step down. I did the same to the guard nose as well, this allows me to simply cut off the old spot welds at the overlap and seam weld it together like it was never there.
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After that stuff I needed to give my back a rest from the positions I'd been in, plus I ran out of pure argon for the tig so I've moved to the back window repairs. This ended up bigger than it looked but not tragic. I've replaced the whole bottom edge and the side corners. Some shots of making and prepping the bottom edge. 377b06469dc930c28fa99066354e91a9.jpga20b0142d73bc645dbe56edc0d746b55.jpgc3247f55c60f22899313fc83300ccf7c.jpgeba93beee068810125c4fc1e9a02d2e7.jpg6d3598abd113fa465125631722fdab0e.jpg9f71db15691070f3423a2b6d11eff3bf.jpgdc18a8f7c3c7b5331f9e22c436d0a644.jpg17e3a05edbba30dd931b75d29ddd30a4.jpg
Right, at this point I thought I was good to go, more on that in a sec. I cut the steel strip, marked where I needed my folds then using the bead roller and newly made tipping wheel (I'll take a pic later), ran it through to fold the edge where the spot welds go first. Then using shrinker to shape the curve in two directions as it's not just a simple curve. This gives an L shape as seen above, ready for more passes through the wheel to tip the other fold and make the Z profile needed. I didn't have to go past the edge here with the new steel because the original metal was good on the boot side. Big plus.

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Next came the removal of the old crap edge
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Belt sander and chisel to split the spot welds in the top. I used the chisel to deform the rusted part before the belt sander so I could easily see where the welds were. Grind, then run the chisel through to break them apart.

Used the air hacksaw (body saw) to cut as close to the good edge as possible without taking the very corner off, that keeps the reference line for later making install easier.
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Hey looky it's one of them there porkypines..

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Next came the removal of the old crap edge
d3bfc657fe49a3491c770dc1c0d50473.jpg3090c63d5da9886ee84952e01ab2d4f0.jpg
Belt sander and chisel to split the spot welds in the top. I used the chisel to deform the rusted part before the belt sander so I could easily see where the welds were. Grind, then run the chisel through to break them apart.

Used the air hacksaw (body saw) to cut as close to the good edge as possible without taking the very corner off, that keeps the reference line for later making install easier.
07190960df0a717ef9164e56ccefade3.jpge5d2126a3cf9a3ef63d9e05f61aeb879.jpg64b466099f62373fd7d8b3eed6d61e2f.jpg610b055fbd74b9ae873a97219f35b1ff.jpg052acf5509a0a7c4fac392dd96c9f2de.jpg654424f179e69ab098cb28ed2a6563ae.jpg403a8ba2b730b32710457fafd13481a6.jpga43a24d0ed70070946ffcaf3b95960ef.jpgb58c00249442dadd578e05aba31ca52c.jpg
Hey looky it's one of them there porkypines..
That's some really nice work.

Thanks for the detailed explanation of the process for making the new part.
I was looking wondering how you keep that curve along the window whilst making the "Z" sort of profile.

At some point in my life, I'd love to learn how to do this sort of work, using bead rollers, shrinkers etc....

Anyway keep up the good work, looks like you've got plenty of it on that car!

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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Thanks Seamus, there's still work to go but I'm near the end on this torana. The window edge is the last bit of rust to cut and shut. There's more update coming but had to get back to actually working for now, will finish catching up later.. There's more to that story

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Saga continues lol
The edge cleaned up ok apart from a couple small areas. Didn't have to get too drastic on it. Inside the box section was alright too thankfully.
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Trimmed and treated the corners, fixed the bad bits of edge.
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Was a couple of bits in the side of the frame, most at the bottom but a bit up top too, so I just cut the lot out. 3871c0be189bb26329b7aaf8dff123ff.jpg45d4593ecdda736f7d5d8ffdfd761a90.jpg
Cleaned, treated, zinced, new bit made
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I missed process shots but this is welded in place
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Now this bit
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Wait.. Why am I seeing double??
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The part on the left of shot is the piece I took all the photos of at the start. I got right through the process to the last step of trimming the top edge of the zed ready for fitting....... Aaaaaaannddd ahhh crap!! The vertical edge or middle bit of the zed was TWO MILLIMETERS TOO TALL!! Oh for ffffff.... Right ok, when it went through the tipping wheel I may have been a fraction to the side of the line or the measurements were out a hair and with the stretching that goes on it ended up with the second flange in the wrong spot. No good... How do you fix that? In short, you can't because as soon as the second fold is made changing it from L to Z shape that's it, it's locked in and can't be adjusted easily. So simply start over, quicker anyway and the second one came out better as well.

Process steps for second were approched differently. First step same, cut strip and tip edge for spotweld side. This time I carefully marked the profile from measurements taken from the cut away original which I couldn't do the first time.

Second step, shrink the L to fit the window curve exactly then screw the part to the inside edge essentially clamping it in place.

Third, make a slotted tool the exact depth of the second fold and carefully tip the edge by hand a fraction at a time, travelling the length of the part a couple times until the tool got in the way.

Fourth, a LOT of tappy tappy. On the back of the vise first to get the fold exactly on the line I wanted, then with the part held in the vise, I used hammer and square dolly to fold and tidy the profile up to shape.

This was slow but more accurate in the end because the section basically dropped into place ready for welding. This is the edge primed ready to go, the sides have been finished as well.
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This shot I've already done one round of stitches and ground them back ready to run the finish stitches. I like doing it this way for joins like this so you can see where you haven't welded easier and it helps minimize pinholes in the end. A hot weld with just enough wire feed to not blow holes but not have a lot to grind back.
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Then all cleaned up. Only a couple pinholes over the whole length.
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Lol I actually dragged out the old GMC belt sander to speed file the vertical edge smooth.

Next step, corners need filling and rounding, so some messy weld thanks to small parts and traces of bronze getting in the way..
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Hey presto!
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I think I was a little happy with that effort, hence the six billion photos lol

Next is repeat corner fill on the other side. I did a smaller cut and shut like the first side but seems I didn't take pics along the way..
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Nice work, Rod. Good to see all the stages you have to go through.
Any XB updates........?

Going to see if I can make the window /parcel shelf part for it today. I had intended to get there earlier but it's just been a hectic couple of months. As you know the kombi just kept dragging itself out and by the time it did finally leave, we were in a bad position getting slammed with bills from everywhere at once. It's a juggling act and I don't always get it right for everyone unfortunately. I think I'm ok now and can get the routine happening that I had planned about two months ago. Fingers crossed.

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Sorry to hear you're stressed, never a good environment for anyone.  Just looking for some Hardtop porn..... 
 
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I'm working on it at the moment, dunno if a parcel shelf / window filler panel counts as porn though..... Well maybe... Has been a head fk lol

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