2redrovers

My cars and whatever's in the shop now etc.

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Today's project, how to make a gap much smaller than factory (and a lot better than factory) b2c19cac6f83ac41ac49598d838736ce.jpg38704ded553428bc32d9e9e33ba4aad4.jpgc7d0b5051598110d57bc909a2dfd869f.jpg
Strips of steel about the thickness of the body (about 2mm for doubled over seams) tacked to match profile, then welded up. Give yourself extra material so you can trim to your heart's content.
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Added a bit extra at the bottom giving about 5mm gap straight up.
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Also cleaned the front lip up properly after the spot welds

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738e6f0414478ceed792a9ae579fbcb0.jpg
 
that looks a lot better, do you smear the back of it with seam sealer?

Yeah you can do if it looks like it needs it. The inner edge will get factory sealer anyway so a little wider won't hurt. Sometimes you won't need to hide a join as such doing this because its welded fully to the skin. Any signs can be touched up with the mig on the inside edge as well then when its cleaned back, just looks like original steel... only more of it.
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So Nick finally got in with the mechanical parts and the bus has a front end

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That was the easy part, bit of nudge nudge, jiggle wiggle and its in (thats what she said) .. the rear is not so easy (she said that too)

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Decided to come back on Wed to put that in and give me time to paint the areas where the swing arm bolts up

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Getting closer...

 

 

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1 hour ago, 2redrovers said:

That was the easy part, bit of nudge nudge, jiggle wiggle and its in (thats what she saidemoji1.png) .. the rear is not so easy (she said that tooemoji23.png)

 

Decided to come back on Wed to put that in 

 

Getting closer...

 

 

 

...... and you wonder where kids come from.?

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Fiddly stuff... cleaned up a few bits for the rear arms to go back on and made them glossy black to match.
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Easiest way to spray bolts and small parts, jammed in a bit of cardboard.
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Also sprayed as much as I could inside the front door with the black zinc to help it last longer.
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I wasn't thinking when I got that shiny black, its a slow dry epoxy enamel (killrust) so can't touch those rear parts till tomorrow.

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1 hour ago, 2redrovers said:

I wasn't thinking when I got that shiny black, its a slow dry epoxy enamel (killrust) so can't touch those rear parts till tomorrow.

in other words.. BGDAV approved paint!

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It's a nice smooth glossy finish. Taking a long time to cure isn't a bad thing really because it makes for a stronger adhesive bond and usually gives a better finish as all the ripples have time to settle out.

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Forgot to take a pic of the parts today, they came up nice and smooth. Not bad for direct to metal.

Other accomplishment, after reworking the ducting for the blasting booth, the first of the wheels went in.
Silver paint over rusty crap
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Think that was more rusty crap with some silver in-between
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Had a few problems with grit feeding again and I really wish I could get the red garnet instead of the black. The red I had a while back just cut so much better.
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It's not perfect but the rust stains will come off easier with acid.

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Hey Rod,
 
what model, does this look like, to you?
 
 
5c07acec947c8_DCnearhome.thumb.jpg.7caf3a1741c808a54c1f427a8b5d2887.jpg

Blurry blue bush (say that three times fast)
Could be Dodge or international variant.. could also be ford...or..

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Just now, 2redrovers said:


Blurry blue bush (say that three times fast)
Could be Dodge or international variant.. could also be ford...or..

 

So the answer is... I don't know, and need a clearer picture? :lol:

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Preferably from the front. One reason is the cab sections on the commercial units were identical between a number of brands with only minor changes made to badging and jewelry. Biggest change is usually the grille and bonnet.

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29 minutes ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

It's near me -

been sitting there in that spot, since before I was born.

house getting demolished? temporary fence says yes

i missed a HJ prem or something similar here, it was on the street with a sticker on the window(Council one) and i thought i'd go back and ask if i could have it.. it was gone, not sure which house it belonged to either.

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More blasting happened. Turned out half my troubles yesterday were from the nozzle I used being a bit small. Kept clogging and restricted air flow. Stumbled on a stupid cheap solution for new nozzles.... a piece of fuel hose that's right folks, a 40mm long bit of hose that fits in the gun just like the standard steel nozzles that wear out too quick. It works just as well too. The hose I tried first is a fraction too big internally so I wasn't getting brilliant pressure but flow was great with no clogging or any real signs of wear on the hose. I switched to a clear type hose which has a smaller internal diameter and gave back some lost air pressure.
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Just needs a bit of duct tape around one end to bring the outside diameter up to a snug fit.
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That clear nozzle has done pretty much the whole wheel in and out. Its opened up about 2mm in that time but still working. Even if you chew through hoze, its like $5 for a few meters instead of $7-$10 for a pack of three different sized steel nozzles and only two are useful.
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Got in this arvo after some errands and pretended to be mechanic. Hey presto...
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It's got rear hubs again once I've finished blasting and priming the wheels, I can get the bus back on it's own feet and off the hoist.
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Before and after/during
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Got that far on the second side but was dinner time so food won.
The pipe nozzles worked well until I thought ..hmm low on pressure ...
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Seems you don't get full pressure when half of it is going through the side of the tube

She liked her bench seats too... hoping she didn't notice the single seat frame right next to her with a bunch of buckets obscuring what it was.

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1 hour ago, 2redrovers said:

Got in this arvo after some errands and pretended to be mechanic. Hey presto...

did you break things and charge the customer? (shots fired.. ) 

 

living the rust free dream

 

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