Bill Wilson 0 Posted November 21, 2015 Ok..I know pretty much what I see on youtube and research off google. Basically, not much. I was given an XH ute for free by a mate. Its motor was cooked. Other than some rust, needing tyres and a few bangs here and there it seemed like a good option. $2200 later and I am still shaking my head. Replaced motor with what was told to be out of an EL. Work was done on the cheap by local mechanic as I am a pensioner. The 1st time I got the car back it ran rough. Was told it's probably leads Took it to a friend and he said the hose was off the manifold vac, It ran much quieter and smoother. After a few days, it would start shuddering as i slowed down to approach lights etc and mostly end up stalling. It would start straight away but next time i slowed, it would happen again. I replaced the MAP, Air sensor on the TB, TPS, new plugs, changed out leads and dizzy cap. The only bad thing that has happened is the radiator coolant went through the gearbox. Looked like a McDonalds strawberry thickshake. It has had the filter and gasket replaced and as i was told i couldn't manually feed and flush the box through the lines, has been dumped 3 times. Fluid looks more cherry red now but when the gearbox gets warm (around a 60km drive at 110) its like i get thrown into a limp mode when i reduce speed, it begins to shudder, lose accelleration. I have to reduce speed slowly and deal with shudders and shits until i get back up to 2K rpm or around the 110 kph mark. It's almost like it also doesn't disengage the overdrive when its warm if that makes sense. My apollogies for my lack of knowledge but I am definitely trying. Cold starts are turn key for about a minute, rough firing cough splutter when it tries to fire. Sounds like some kind of compression, couldn't say where from as I don't have anyone to start it for me. Was also suggested dizzy may be out 10 degrees? I am hoping the box just may be a little low and when hot, wont change etc. When I can get a 16mm socket, i'll check. I will check back periodically for any info/help or suggestions and to update anything I have forgooten or fixed. Thanks for your time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SLO247 1,713 Posted November 21, 2015 Sounds like the timing could be retarded, I'd definitely check that. Theres a procedure to it with these, someone will fill you in on that. Level check sounds like a good idea, should be able to remove the plug and feel the fluid around the bottom of the hole. Does the speedo continue to work properly when the box plays up? 1 Bill Wilson reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted November 21, 2015 Hi, and welcome. The "EL" engine was a good runner?? First up, I'd be looking for a compression tester and test each cylinder, so you can eliminate 95% of the problem being head / gasket related. 1 Bill Wilson reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu5766 394 Posted November 21, 2015 Also, they need to have the OBD plug bridges out to set the correct timing & for the ECU to learn what's happening. 1 Bill Wilson reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Wilson 0 Posted November 21, 2015 was told compression was tested wet and dry? Some parts have had to be 2nd hand from wreckers and a couple of mates. I know i am just prolonging problems but would prefer find the fault, then address new prices Being Pov is a bitch. Thanks for the replies guys, appreciate it remember, idiot here...OBD plug bridges? before pics, nothing too tragic. Just a little rust here and there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SLO247 1,713 Posted November 21, 2015 http://www.injectronics.com.au/technical-assistance/ Read the bulletin on EL/XH ignition timing. 2 Bill Wilson and Stu5766 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SLO247 1,713 Posted November 21, 2015 Nasty rust for a later model ute, but not too bad to fix as long as it hasnt gone down to the rail section under the tank. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Wilson 0 Posted November 21, 2015 nah, thank god it was just the plate under the tank. had sat for a year before i took it. Cheers for the link will check it out now. worst part with rust is thje door hinge and plate. lucky i know a welder lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,865 Posted November 21, 2015 If you think the box is holding onto top gear when slowing down, I'd try manually going back through the gears, and note what the gearbox/engine does. You should be able to progressively engine brake it back through each gear. If you find any of the lower gears gives you no engine braking effect, then the auto box likely has a problem with the C4 clutch pack. If it shudders coming back to idle, it's usually a sticky ISC (idle speed control) valve. The EL/XH motors need to be set at exactly TDC (top dead centre) on the balancer - when in KOER (Key On Engine Running) diagnostic mode. The earlier engines, are the ones which need to be set at 10 degree's before TDC. You'd know if the ECU was really in Limp Home Mode, as you'd be stuck in 3rd gear. Overly advanced or retarded timing, will result in the starter struggling to rotate the engine. 1 Bill Wilson reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grimmy 312 Posted November 21, 2015 I had a very similar problem with an ef i had . Turned out to be a fuel pump ! I don't know what the procedures are to check them as I had a pump at arms reach , banged it in and it was fine . 1 Bill Wilson reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Wilson 0 Posted November 22, 2015 ISC was removed and cleaned with throttle body cleaner, gasket seal is good. High reving before changing gears I have just put down to low fluid atm. Got another box on standby anyway, has a dipstick and will solve a couple of other little isues like the torque converter and complete drain of fluid. Timing was supposidly checked by mechanic but I definitely think it's the issue or related to it. Ive always thought it was an issue with the dizzy but wasn't in a position to investigate it. Cheers again for the input. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Wilson 0 Posted November 22, 2015 If you think the box is holding onto top gear when slowing down, I'd try manually going back through the gears, and note what the gearbox/engine does. You should be able to progressively engine brake it back through each gear. If you find any of the lower gears gives you no engine braking effect, then the auto box likely has a problem with the C4 clutch pack. If it shudders coming back to idle, it's usually a sticky ISC (idle speed control) valve. The EL/XH motors need to be set at exactly TDC (top dead centre) on the balancer - when in KOER (Key On Engine Running) diagnostic mode. The earlier engines, are the ones which need to be set at 10 degree's before TDC. You'd know if the ECU was really in Limp Home Mode, as you'd be stuck in 3rd gear. Overly advanced or retarded timing, will result in the starter struggling to rotate the engine. Cheers, very helpful. Will be checking out your thoughts first thing monday. Only just found out how to reply directly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites