Car slowly overheating, even know everything seems to be working ?

[RAWDEAL 222]

What type of fan sensor are you running???

Are they multi speed or single speed.

I knew a guy who changed his whole engine due to over heating, only to find it was the high speed fan relay not working.

Fans were only operating at low speed & couldn't keep the thing cool.

That was in an XH ute.

they are just either off , or high. they are AU fans

[RAWDEAL 222]

So today i fixed the bottom hose. it has a spring in it now. 

 

also i have tested the themostats

72c orignial one that was in it , is fine and opens at around 70

81c high flow i bought today, opens at 81

81 normal flow i bought a while ago, also opens at 81

im gonna install the high flow Tridon Themostat, and see how that goes.. i really cbfd taking the themostat housing off again so hopefully this works

[Stu5766 394]

Is it fixed now?

[bear351c 10,270]

Yeah, yeah, yeah..........do tell.!

[RAWDEAL 222]

I have not driven it ! lol 

I will be on saturday so ill update then!

[RAWDEAL 222]

took the car for a run.

 

around town it sits on 82-86

 

on the highway it creeps up to 100 again????

 

also when idling it cools down?

 

arghh

 

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[judgetread 757]

sounds like water flowing to fast .... thus not giving the water in the radiator enough time to actually cool down. That would explain why it cools down at idle, slower flows giving the coolant time to cool down

 

Are you using a high flow thrmostat? maybe go back to a normal one .. or top pulley wrong size?

[judgetread 757]

or a belt slipping at higher rpm?

[SPArKy_Dave 8,869]

took the car for a run.

 

around town it sits on 82-86

 

on the highway it creeps up to 100 again????

 

also when idling it cools down?

 

arghh

 

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Might be running too lean.

The EECV computers have lean cruise for fuel saving.

 

Or a partially blocked radiator will do that too.

[bear351c 10,270]

Starting to sound more like a blocked radiator.   Any chance you have a spare??  Rad can be 50% blocked and still the water comes out clear when flushing.

[RAWDEAL 222]

sounds like water flowing to fast .... thus not giving the water in the radiator enough time to actually cool down. That would explain why it cools down at idle, slower flows giving the coolant time to cool down

 

Are you using a high flow thrmostat? maybe go back to a normal one .. or top pulley wrong size?

Its all factory stuff. new water pump

 

new everything now. even the fans and radiator

 

when im on the highway the revs are pretty low... below 2000, not to sure as i dont have a tacho lol

 

so id say the revs would be higher on average when im around town

 

the belt doesnt seem to be slipping

 

Ive just gone from a normal flow to a high flow and the themostats were both tested to work. the high flow helped a bit

 

its on lpg with an impco425 and an msd 6530. I have changed the gas carb and it diddnt help

[deankxf 20,278]

what ratio is in the diff and what is the top gear ratio.. i found when i fitted an AOD to MY XE many years ago with 2.92 gears it didnt like driving below 2000rpm on the highway, seemed more throttle required than the C10 without overdrive. i dont recall running hotter, but that could well be the cause, labouring due to being out of even the cams range and ign timing etc

[RAWDEAL 222]

what ratio is in the diff and what is the top gear ratio.. i found when i fitted an AOD to MY XE many years ago with 2.92 gears it didnt like driving below 2000rpm on the highway, seemed more throttle required than the C10 without overdrive. i dont recall running hotter, but that could well be the cause, labouring due to being out of even the cams range and ign timing etc

At the moment its i think (not 100% sure) a .75 top gear ratio

and 2.92 diff is whats in it , because i blew the last one up haha

 

ive tried to drive it in 5th instead of 6th for 5-10 mins.. just makes more noise tbh

[deankxf 20,278]

At the moment its i think (not 100% sure) a .75 top gear ratio

and 2.92 diff is whats in it , because i blew the last one up haha

 

ive tried to drive it in 5th instead of 6th for 5-10 mins.. just makes more noise tbh

is 4th 1 to 1, assuming it will make more noise, does it get hot.. comes back to My original point of labouring outside the range of the cam etc

i tried 3.23 with My AOD then went to 3.45 and then the ratios were all wrong for the rest of it..i should have left it C10 auto.

 

 

[RAWDEAL 222]

 

At the moment its i think (not 100% sure) a .75 top gear ratio

 

and 2.92 diff is whats in it , because i blew the last one up haha

 

ive tried to drive it in 5th instead of 6th for 5-10 mins.. just makes more noise tbh

 

 

is 4th 1 to 1, assuming it will make more noise, does it get hot.. comes back to My original point of labouring outside the range of the cam etc

 

i tried 3.23 with My AOD then went to 3.45 and then the ratios were all wrong for the rest of it..i should have left it C10 auto.

 

 

 

 

its a 6 speed manual

 

so 6th is 0.75 i think. unfortunaly dont have a tacho at the moment

 

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[SPArKy_Dave 8,869]

It's a fuelling/timing issue then.

 

look at the injectors, fuel pressure, fuel pump

and

IAT sensor/CT sensor 

and

dizzy hall effect sensor, plus the TFI module.

 

It will likely be one of those things.

 

 

My EL V8 wagon has always had the exact same problem.

I've done an enormous amount of research, into how the EECV engine management system works.

 

 

 

 

or failing all the above...... it's got a blown head gasket (or gaskets).

[Banno 479]

Pretty sure he said that it is lpg with a msd ignition. Could be leaning out at open throttle or a vacuum leak. What converter does it run and has ever been serviced or cleaned?

[Stu5766 394]

It's a fuelling/timing issue then.

 

look at the injectors, fuel pressure, fuel pump

and

IAT sensor/CT sensor

and

dizzy hall effect sensor, plus the TFI module.

 

It will likely be one of those things.

 

 

My EL V8 wagon has always had the exact same problem.

I've done an enormous amount of research, into how the EECV engine management system works.

 

 

 

 

or failing all the above...... it's got a blown head gasket (or gaskets).

He said it's a straight gas mixer with MSD ignition.

Where did you purchase the radiator from??

Is it a reputable brand or an eBay Chinese radiator?

[RAWDEAL 222]

It's a fuelling/timing issue then.

 

look at the injectors, fuel pressure, fuel pump

and

IAT sensor/CT sensor 

and

dizzy hall effect sensor, plus the TFI module.

 

It will likely be one of those things.

 

 

My EL V8 wagon has always had the exact same problem.

I've done an enormous amount of research, into how the EECV engine management system works.

 

 

 

 

or failing all the above...... it's got a blown head gasket (or gaskets).

there is ZERO EFI gear on this car lol

 

msd 6530 digital programable

impco 425

standard dizzy that i had the rotor phased properly 

 

not sure where to start 

[RAWDEAL 222]

He said it's a straight gas mixer with MSD ignition.

Where did you purchase the radiator from??

Is it a reputable brand or an eBay Chinese radiator?

i think it was orignally a SSS auto parts radiator

 

i know it works because it was 100 degrees untill i got home and idled it for 5 mins and it went back down to 85, this was sunday , in geelong, so it was about 25 degrees outside

[Stu5766 394]

How much advance are you running??

[SPArKy_Dave 8,869]

So you're still running the standard dizzy with TFI and hall effect sensor?
That's number three on my list.

[RAWDEAL 222]

So you're still running the standard dizzy with TFI and hall effect sensor?

 

That's number three on my list.

 

yeah ita on your list but 3/4 of it isnt haha

 

what actually clould go wrong with the dizzy/how can i tell?

 

i think its 10 btdc idle and 35 all in at 3500

 

but i could be wrong its been ages

 

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