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tyko86

MSD AND TFI

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This is the non programmable 6al2 part number 6421

6421_full.jpg

 

This is the programmable 6al2 part number 6530

6530_full%282%29.jpg?n=9128

 

This is a 6al part number 6425

6425_2011.jpg

 

I almost bought a non programmable 6al2 when I was looking for one. Make sure you ask who ever is selling it the part number on the front of the unit, as you can see they all have the part number on the front. Yes the programmable 6al2 with part number 6530 is the best and only one to buy if your going to buy any of them.

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Going to have another go at this with the module and will attempt the below:

Pin 6 - white from MSD

Pin 3 - red from MSD

Pin 1 - to ground

Orange from MSD to coil +

Black from MSD to coil -

 

Question is in regards to pin 3 some threads I have read state that this should be 12v switched and the MSD manual

says that the small red wire should be 12v switched (do they both need to be) I know it's been done to death but I really

want it running with the msd. Looking for clarity here if anyone can assist.

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Mine runs 12volts switched to dizzy from a supply in the engine bay.And then 12 Volts switched from under the dash to MSD alone. 

 

Both only need 12v switched to work and from where don't mean shit but if you take it from the MSD your pulling power from that too hence why I run em from separate sources which also makes fault finding easier too. 

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Wired but not running - the saga continues!

Have 12v switched going to dizzy pin 3 and to red wire msd. Led flicks on once when I turn ignition to on (is it meant to stay on with key on?)

Getting spark from coil lead with tapping White msd wire to ground but led does not flash when turning over (ie no trigger signal from dizzy)

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Any chance of a pic of your dizzy with deleted module? Did you strip the dizzy down for ease of soldering wires on? What are we talking about when you say sensor may be stuffed?

How important would new rotor and dizzy cap be as the ones with the dizzy looked okay?

Thank you for all the assistance so far - I'm not giving in till this b@#^% is running with the msd!

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Success!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Deleted module and it ran!!!!!!

Only had dummy wired so have pulled everything apart again to tidy up then will fine tune the

timing!! Thank you to everyone for advice!

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So did not have a timing light but thought I had timing somewhere in the ballpark - turned out 38 degrees advance once I got a light on it!

I did not run it long with this much but it seemed reasonably happy, easy to start etc and very responsive.

Have backed it off to 28 degrees and seems much more flat, (when on road it does have a bit of a flat spot when you stand on it down low)

Is it safe to try some more timing? Somebody mentioned upto 31 degrees?

Any recommendations on carby jetting (600 vac secondary - have already changed pv to 4.5 can't remember exact jet sizes)

I had a look at plug colour and redish brown after a brisk drive up the road and back - can you go off plug colour with the unleaded fuel?

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1. Is it safe to try some more timing? Somebody mentioned up to 31 degrees?

2. Any recommendations on carby jetting?

3. can you go off plug colour with the unleaded fuel?

1. Yes. I run about about 36 degrees total. for example. But each car is different. You need to get your AFR right first. Once your hitting target AFR's try to find max timing. You need to LOAD the car up. Find the steepest hill you can and do a couple of WOT pulls up in a high gear, so you can load the engine in the 1500-3000 rpm range. Listen carefully for any knock, if you hear any, reduce throttle IMMEDIATELY, and back your timing 3º and try again. If you DON'T hear any knock, advance the timing 2º and try again, till you hear knock. When you do back it off 3º and you're good to go.

 

2. Nope, get a vac gauge to adjust idle and choose power valve, and a wideband to set WOT AFR's

 

3. Yes. Plug condition can be used to diagnose many different engine problems.

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