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scottly

Help with automatic gearbox choice

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Hey guys,

 

So It's been a while since my last post due to work And no time but on the up side i almost have enough coin to purchase a gearbox for my e85 fg turbo powered xd fairmont ghia project, I want to use this car on the street not for cruising and maybe hit the strip one day.

 

The problem I am having I don't know much about auto's I have always had manual cars, from what I have researched the 3 that I am leaning towards is the powerglide,turbo 400,c10 (I already have a c10 due for a rebuild) I am after the best bang for buck auto that will last and that will suit my application, I will be aiming for 350-400 max rwkw.

 

If some one could explain how each gearbox would be in the car that would be great or any other input would be great on this topic as its all new, Any one know who builds the best autos around Melbourne to?

 

Thanks scott

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Hey fellas, I have talked to a few transmission builders over the last week and they all have said the c10 can be built to handle big hp but they don't last compared to t400,powerglide, the body of the case is to small even after you machine the inside to allow for bigger clutches ect.

 

So I am more leaning towards the t400 as they are strong as feck many power options and street manners would be nice compared to the powerglide. I will be getting my engine tuned over the next couple of months so I will have a exact power figure to work with and dyno sheet for the converter boys.

 

Any other Info on this topic would be great it's always good to learn before you go buying parts lol

 

Cheers scott

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don't under estimate the C4 with 6 clutches and a few other things done but if you're making more than 400rwkw then go for the glide, buy once and don't fuck around. The taller 1st will be nice on the drag strip too

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Yeah agree with the above 3 speed over a 2 speed. The c4 can be built to handle plenty, guy at work has a 2JZ single turbo conversion into a holden 1 tonner and it uses a c4, which quite a few of those conversions use. And isn't a c10 the same as a c4 just something to do with filler tubes or something (going off memory here so which is never a good thing), so just rebuild what you have then your only paying for a rebuild.

If you did go with a T350/T400 there is a heap of aftermarket stuff for them. You could even get a brand new one from the states from around 2grand US dollars that will handle 800hp, not quite sure if it handles boost though.

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Yeah, it's an Aussie thing......the C10. Yanks don't know them, so if you're ordering bits from the 'States, specify that the filler tube goes in the body or pan.

"C10" from memory, has a thicker radius on the top, where the body meets the bell housing, and pan filled.

Any tranny guys, know for sure??

 

(shut up, Unfamilia.......)

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All the trans guys I spoke to said the ford c10 c4 boxs are not shit they are a good box that can handle big hp but will not last as long as a t400 powerglide especially on a forced Barra as they make big torque and early, I would get my c10 built if it was for a n/a Clevo but t400 I am sold on I think value for money and options is to good. From what I have heard the t700 is good but it is limited hp wise

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Can't say that I have ever heard the c4 not being able to take power or last as there are plenty of people running them behind boost, like the guy at my work with 2JZ with big single conversion. They do cost a bit more and do require different things to be done to them. You can't really go wrong with the T400.

The T700 is a 4 speed and is a good box but this car is not for cruising so it's not really needed and it doesn't have anywhere near the setups available that the T400 or even the c4 has.

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I'm learning as I go, so this is the summery of the c10 I have been given by very well know drag/street auto transmission builders in Melbourne. But yes plenty of racers still use the c10 and can be built to handle hp

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Anyone still play with C6s or are they dinosaurs now?

 

not sure how you'd fit one behind the BA motor but they are much stronger than the C4 and can be made to handle over 1000hp quite reasonably 

 

 

I'm learning as I go, so this is the summery of the c10 I have been given by very well know drag/street auto transmission builders in Melbourne. But yes plenty of racers still use the c10 and can be built to handle hp

don't say C10, it's a C4

 

if guys in the states have them behind nitrous cars pushing 800hp then they will live longer behind a 800hp turbo motor 

you're looking at about $500 rebuilt kit for 500HP plus cost of someone to do the rebuilt which takes a day at $100/h with a good core you're looking at $1300, add oil and you're up to $1500 dollars

 

the upgrades from 500HP are relatively cheap!

Better servo around $200

Needle bearing for 9 around $100

Direct drum mods to get 6-7 clutches and oiling around $250

Roller bearing on the forward clutch $160

Roller forward planet gear $300

Roller rear planet $ 200

Roller reverse drum $100

PA26405 hardened input shaft $200

 

 

there you go about $3000 and she'll love you a long time, you might have to get a manual valve body for it if you want or choose or a trans brake but that's up to you

 

To get this transmission build locally you'll be looking at about 5-6k, if you buy all the parts you're looking at 2k or so then pay 1k for someone to assemble it and you're done, learn how to do it yourself if you can, the C4/C6 aren't that complicated. I've done a few C6's and they lived, the C4 is just smaller.

 

Just don't get ripped off, it's not rocket science and when reading crap on the interwebs keep in mind most C4's we got are 1970's up which comes with some of the oil mods already there but you can read up on it. It's pretty hard to fuck up rebuilding a C4 if you follow instructions. Hell just buy a rebuild kit and rebuilt it yourself and race it! if it breaks you can see where/what broke and you rebuild it again with stronger parts as now you know what you're doing and financially you'll come up on top and you gain a skill for life rather than just plonk money on the table so some 3 thooted pony tailed covered in tatts can have more beer

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I am going a T400 for mine scottly, hoping to be well over 400kw though. I had a C4 built for it with all the fruit before this. Cost me about 5k through Als Race Glides not including converter or bell housing. It had extra clutches the lot, and al warranted it to 1000hp. I have since sold it to fund a T400, which I should have ordered by now lol.

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All that C4 roller stuff best off machining up yourself . Saves heaps bucks .

6 clutches in top gear holds a lot . I've not had the need for a 7 YET :)  Requires new snap ring groove cut in the drum

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You'd still have the added weight of the drums . But I will say the rollers make them spin over very freely . I've done quite a few roller C6's and definitely worthwhile IMO

 

Have seen mention of 2/10's saving from rollerising a C6

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well the added weight of the box too, definitely good to know then, getting a 460 stoker into the XE is a long time dream of mine, somewhere along the lines of 540cubes 

 

don't know who does your machining but to me its cheaper to get the Broader Per 7clutch drum already machined and complete less sprag ...

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not sure how you'd fit one behind the BA motor but they are much stronger than the C4 and can be made to handle over 1000hp quite reasonably

 

 

 

don't say C10, it's a C4

 

if guys in the states have them behind nitrous cars pushing 800hp then they will live longer behind a 800hp turbo motor

you're looking at about $500 rebuilt kit for 500HP plus cost of someone to do the rebuilt which takes a day at $100/h with a good core you're looking at $1300, add oil and you're up to $1500 dollars

 

the upgrades from 500HP are relatively cheap!

Better servo around $200

Needle bearing for 9 around $100

Direct drum mods to get 6-7 clutches and oiling around $250

Roller bearing on the forward clutch $160

Roller forward planet gear $300

Roller rear planet $ 200

Roller reverse drum $100

PA26405 hardened input shaft $200

 

 

there you go about $3000 and she'll love you a long time, you might have to get a manual valve body for it if you want or choose or a trans brake but that's up to you

 

To get this transmission build locally you'll be looking at about 5-6k, if you buy all the parts you're looking at 2k or so then pay 1k for someone to assemble it and you're done, learn how to do it yourself if you can, the C4/C6 aren't that complicated. I've done a few C6's and they lived, the C4 is just smaller.

 

Just don't get ripped off, it's not rocket science and when reading crap on the interwebs keep in mind most C4's we got are 1970's up which comes with some of the oil mods already there but you can read up on it. It's pretty hard to fuck up rebuilding a C4 if you follow instructions. Hell just buy a rebuild kit and rebuilt it yourself and race it! if it breaks you can see where/what broke and you rebuild it again with stronger parts as now you know what you're doing and financially you'll come up on top and you gain a skill for life rather than just plonk money on the table so some 3 thooted pony tailed covered in tatts can have more beer

Thanks for such a detailed reply mate its great, this will help me out and a few others I'd say. I think I'm sold on the t400 but I will be keeping the c10 and I might give a rebuild a go with the old man for a future x series.

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I am going a T400 for mine scottly, hoping to be well over 400kw though. I had a C4 built for it with all the fruit before this. Cost me about 5k through Als Race Glides not including converter or bell housing. It had extra clutches the lot, and al warranted it to 1000hp. I have since sold it to fund a T400, which I should have ordered by now lol.

Hey jetftr, thanks for the reply what was the main reason you changed to t400 over the c4 with the 1000 hp warranty that you aready had?

 

Cheers scott

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