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Twin Turbo Cortina , Head Ache's , Help Wanted

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hey guys , so this is where everyone disapered to :)

time to start a new build thread i guess...

ill start off with spec's , designs , and plans 

car: 81 Te Cortina

Engine : 4.1 crossflow

Mod's :
lightened crank

ACL Pro Lite pistons 50 thou oversize
arp rods
stage 3 heat seeker cam , unsure of specs as heatseeker and watson cams do not exist anymore and have lost my cam specs card
anti pump up lifters
465 holley
4 bbl redline torque manifold
9.3 to 1 compression
shaved head by 30 thou
double valve springs
twin row timing chain

holley blue fuel pump and regulator

motor has done around 45 000 since build.

Rocker cover not bolted down and extractors dummy fitted in pic

now i got my self a twin set of GT2856r turbo's , that are set up for blow through carby that came off a XF, i couldnt resist the urge to buy them as i paid $500 for the whole set up witch included 2 manifolds 2x turbo's , Oil and Water lines , Custom Turbo Winged Sump , all Pipe work.






looked at my engine bay and thought these will fit easy , just have to mod my sump as corty need bulge at back not front. and get MSD ignition system , bigger fuel pump , rising rate fuel reg.

i have hit a problem though , im running a v8 brake booster and the rear turbo is hitting it , and there is not enough room for the exhaust dump pipe off the rear of the turbo .

post-186-0-59008400-1435622816_thumb.jpg

post-186-0-74289000-1435622976_thumb.jpg

so im after your guy's thoughts , i will be running a front mount cooler so that top pipe work wont be getting used apparently was running 10 psi with no cooler on previous car with stock internals and light head work with no decomp plate.

so my aim will be to run 10 psi with a front mount inter-cooler , have not decided if im going to convert to EFI or just do a Holley Boost Carby set up as the EFI set up might be more expensive was looking at running a microtech ECU and there about 1000 bucks on there own with out a plenum and what not and would also need to install a EFI fuel pump , where as can get a MSD full set for it for like $600 , fuel pump for 200 , carb set up for about 500.

but back to the matter at hand , 

this turbo set up ive had sitting for around 2 years as i lost my job and have just regained funds to finish it. you may have seen it on xfalcon if your a old member



im chasing some thoughts and idea's to fix this manifold and turbo issue , so far i have came up with these 2 design's 
but still not sure how it would affect flow rate and if it would grant me the room .

i would get 2 of these manifolds made up of witch ever i decide so they are equal lengths , the front turbo really has no problems exact when i move the rear turbo towards it wont be enough space to get rear dump pipe on , so what ever i move the rear turbo forwards by i would need to do the same to the front turbo.
post-186-0-48802300-1435623914_thumb.jpg

2nd design
post-186-0-92804300-1435623944_thumb.jpg


feel free to add your thoughts and Idea's , chuck me some designs , just feels atm ive hit a brick wall with the project , wanting to get this all done and dusted with in the next 6 months :)






 

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I will be watching this one. I tried to view pics but says Im not permitted to view, I am viewing on my phone so may have something to do with it.

Regarding fitting the turbos and designing manifolds what if you make the front turbo a mid or even low mount and then leave the rear turbo high mount. This should allow the rear turbo to move forward while still leaving room for the dump pipe on the front turbo. It wont give even timed exhaust pulses into the turbos but that may be an advantage using smaller turbos.

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Love the idea, will be very interesting. Like Wagoon says you could go high mount on the rear turbo, you just have ensure that your oil drain will clear the manifold and have a clear path back to the sump. Another idea is to keep the current manifolds, cut the rear turbo manifold off at the header flange and modify it so that the merge faces downwards (using steam pipe butt weld elbows) to hug the block. Hopefully you could then squeeze a 2.5" dump pipe between the motor and booster. Or could you just cut and re-weld the rear turbine flange with the dump flange pointing more towards the block and the comp inlet towards the drivers headlight?

 

As for EFI, could you not get a hold of an XE-XF intake, throttle body, and fuel rail (not the ultimate but will work) and grab the TFI Dizzy while you're there. A set of Siemens deka 600cc injectors for $300 odd. Use your Holley blue as a lift pump, surge tank, Bosch 044 or Walbro, 1/2 fuel lines. I know shelling out for an ECU isn't cheap but you would get some sort of programmable ignition with a retard function for a turbo anyway, you may as well save a bit more and get EFI.

 

If you're truly on a budget but handy with wiring you could run an E series ECU with a J3 chip and limit boost to 10 PSI, keep the same CR. Just a couple of ideas, hope they were helpful.

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thanks for the reply's guys has given me allot to think about in terms of the intake side of things. XPTCrossy i do have another spare head it came with the turbo's looks to have work done to it and has double valve springs and on the side of it engraved on the flat bit of alloy near the rear left where headers bolt on says 54CC ? stock is 42CC right ? ,  not sure 100% what my head is already , just know it has been shaved by 30 thou as motor was built by previous owner. any know  what the stock port size's are ? might be worth swapping them over.

also i wouldn't of thought a xf efi intake would suffice thought it would be to restrictive but if it works it works , it is kind of a budget build as im just really wanting to get some turbo's on there , cheaper the better to be honest but we all know nothing is cheap lol , i mean i could always go the cheaper route and improve and upgrade some time down the track. eventually some time further in the future i would like to drop a xr6t dohc in it , but dreams are dreams  , this is a far more realistic build at this time till i have 10k sitting in a bank.

so far this is what i have in the plans with rough estimates on price's if i went the carby route
not sure but i think i would need some sort of vacuum pump for brakes ?

some things might be a little over priced but leaving overprice for extra money not planned on , as we know nothing go's to plan.

Msd ignition system with boost and retard timing control $500
650 holley boost applicable $600
intercooler $200
pipe work $200
riseing rate boost fuel regulator $180
already have 1/2 fuel lines
Fuel Pump $120
Modified turbo manifold $250
brake vacuum pump $170

Total $2220

dont think i have forgotten anything though i probs have

for EFI route

Xe/XF intake manifold and stock throttle body and Maf $80 > rough estimate 2nd hand > im sure one of you guys on here has a manifold and maf laying around and a tfi dizzy as some of us left shoulder them and chuck a carby on efi heads :)
Injectors $340
Holly blue fuel lift pump - Freebie!! already have it
Tfi Dizzy $80
surge tank and all fitting $130
microtech ecu new $1000 2nd hand probs around $750 or haltech both around same price
wiring $300 < as a safety in case i get stuck and need help
intercooler : $200
Pipework : $200

Total $2330 with brand new ECU

so unless i have missed something the EFI route seems the cheaper way to go and that's with a new ECU. and would be a allot better performance and tune wise.

not include dyno and tune time price as both setups would need it so there is another$500 to be addedon both totals but we are just talking about teh price for the build in it's self.

i did not even really consider the EFI route till last night and i just thought it would of been about a extra 1000 dollars over the Carby set up, so i thank you guys for that 


 Jack  , were would one get one for a cortina ? and roughly know how much it would be , cortina's already have really shit brakes not sure how much of a difference it would make lol but im all ears. the extra room would be a blessing 




 

 

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Ok a couple of things, keep in mind I'm only trying to help. I know all to well about projects and budgets, this is not a dig just a suggestion.

First the cylinder head: look between the number 1 and 2 inlets on the head, there should be something like C1, C2, C2A or something like that. From the head type the stock cc will be know, but have you ever seen the combustion chamber yourself? From the engine details it looks like it has been setup to rev a bit (if the engine build knew what they were doing not just putting parts in) as it has ARP rod bolts and anti pump up lifter. So if the builder went to this effort I wonder if the head was ported at all.

How serious are you on going the dohc route? Both of the options you have listed above have major compromises on performance so you won't be getting full benefit from the turbo's. As you said the stock efi intake will be restrictive and yes there are other options like joining 2 different manifolds together but that only adds to the cost.

 

Intercooler is going to be either custom 2 inlet 1 outlet or your going to have to merge the pipes before the intercooler, either option is going to be a lot more that you have allowed for.

 

You have not listed exhaust cost in the above costings which is going to cost you a lot. Since you are so cramped for room you are looking at a complete custom setup which I would be shocked if it costs close to $2000 I'm thinking more $2500+. I just built an exhaust for my NA crossflow powered car from the collector at the end of the primaries to the tip at the rear and it cost me $300 in pipe alone not including mufflers. I did all the fab work, welding and painting myself. Since you have 2 dump pipes that have to merge into a large single system unless you can do all the fab work yourself it will cost more than your estimates above for your engine.

 

So as much as you probably don't want to hear this, if your are half serious about going dohc turbo don't waste your money on the twin turbo crossflow. By the time you get the twin turbo system sorted it WILL cost you more. I'm not even saying that the dohc turbo can be done in a corty (which I'm sure it could) but spending all this money on a twin turbo crossflow when you might change it later on is just plain crazy. If you have money to burn or really like cool different stuff ignore the above (I will say right here that I would love to twin turbo a crossflow 1 day but sequential I'm thinking). Enjoy the current engine you have which sounds like a half decent setup, sell the twin turbo setup and use the money towards a sohc or dohc single turbo setup both of which will probably make more power than the twin turbo crossflow setup be more reliable than the twin turbo crossflow setup and be cheaper than the twin turbo crossflow setup in the long run.

Again only trying to help as I know custom fabrication costs a lot of money, I know cause I'm a fabricator for my paid job.

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Ok a couple of things, keep in mind I'm only trying to help. I know all to well about projects and budgets, this is not a dig just a suggestion.

First the cylinder head: look between the number 1 and 2 inlets on the head, there should be something like C1, C2, C2A or something like that. From the head type the stock cc will be know, but have you ever seen the combustion chamber yourself? From the engine details it looks like it has been setup to rev a bit (if the engine build knew what they were doing not just putting parts in) as it has ARP rod bolts and anti pump up lifter. So if the builder went to this effort I wonder if the head was ported at all.

How serious are you on going the dohc route? Both of the options you have listed above have major compromises on performance so you won't be getting full benefit from the turbo's. As you said the stock efi intake will be restrictive and yes there are other options like joining 2 different manifolds together but that only adds to the cost.

 

Intercooler is going to be either custom 2 inlet 1 outlet or your going to have to merge the pipes before the intercooler, either option is going to be a lot more that you have allowed for.

 

You have not listed exhaust cost in the above costings which is going to cost you a lot. Since you are so cramped for room you are looking at a complete custom setup which I would be shocked if it costs close to $2000 I'm thinking more $2500+. I just built an exhaust for my NA crossflow powered car from the collector at the end of the primaries to the tip at the rear and it cost me $300 in pipe alone not including mufflers. I did all the fab work, welding and painting myself. Since you have 2 dump pipes that have to merge into a large single system unless you can do all the fab work yourself it will cost more than your estimates above for your engine.

 

So as much as you probably don't want to hear this, if your are half serious about going dohc turbo don't waste your money on the twin turbo crossflow. By the time you get the twin turbo system sorted it WILL cost you more. I'm not even saying that the dohc turbo can be done in a corty (which I'm sure it could) but spending all this money on a twin turbo crossflow when you might change it later on is just plain crazy. If you have money to burn or really like cool different stuff ignore the above (I will say right here that I would love to twin turbo a crossflow 1 day but sequential I'm thinking). Enjoy the current engine you have which sounds like a half decent setup, sell the twin turbo setup and use the money towards a sohc or dohc single turbo setup both of which will probably make more power than the twin turbo crossflow setup be more reliable than the twin turbo crossflow setup and be cheaper than the twin turbo crossflow setup in the long run.

Again only trying to help as I know custom fabrication costs a lot of money, I know cause I'm a fabricator for my paid job.

no harm taken mate this is why i posted on here to get ppl's thoughts and idea's :)

 

As for the exhaust situation i should of mentioned i already have a 3inch in the shed to fit cortina from tail pipe to under the seat , i have also already got a custom fab pipe thats makes the 2 turbo exhaust dump pipes into 1 pipe  3.25 inch so it slips onto the main exhaust.

moving the turbo's though would require modding the bends in the dump pipes witch should not be to much hassle as i have the turbo flanges already done would just be a matter of cutting and bending the pipes to fit , have a 3 phase mig at my disposal and grinders and a oxy.

i can take pic's tomorrow and post them up.

 

 

the turbo manifolds though i would get done by  professional Fabricator , and get it done right the 1st time no messing about that way.

 

im really not looking for big numbers i would be smiling with around 200rwkw and the fact i have a cortina with a twin turbo crossflow , personally i have never seen one with a twin set up and im finding out why now but in the end, i will have something unique. 200rwkw is still around a low 14 second quarter mile pass with semi slicks

 

i fully understand where you are coming from , but a dohc motor is allot of years away already looked into it 8 to 10k easy with out any spare change using a 2nd hand FG motor and donor car. so we are talking at least minimum of 5 to 7 years away, just a future dream prospect .

 

as it is this is going to take me 4 to 6 months to complete as i will be buying piece by piece and getting bits done slowly.

 

 if you think im crazy have a listen to this ,all because i like these wheels i have on  atm , they are 8 inch wide rims 4x14 but the offset is wrong so tyres stick out the guards , im spending $185 a rim to have the offset changed just to fit them under the ass  .... offset is being changed by 30mm's , 

 

at the end of the day , i dont care what i spend ill eat 2 minute noodles every night for 6 months and do the hard yards .

 

but hopefully your guys input will make those hard yards allot shorter lol.

 

 

the motor that i have atm with out the turbo's is great , i checked tonight has no port work :( so i might pull it off this week and at least use a die grinder and take out the imperfections and do a port match and polish

 

i really do appreciate your input , but my mind is kinda set on making this happen :)

 

also the sequential idea is interesting hit me up when you start a build thread on that i wont close the forums lol

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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200rwkw is very obtainable from your current setup without the turbo, but that is a good thing that you are expecting less power but spending more money. I really am not trying to talk you out of the twin turbo setup, just trying to give you a realistic point of view. I am more than happy to help you where ever I can as I really am interested in a twin turbo setup, but don't hold your breath on me starting a turbo setup as I am still a long time away from getting my NA setup running.

 

Looking at your first post the second design you put up for the exhaust manifold has merit, it just needs a little adjustment. If you changed it from a flat plate to a round pipe with a good transition it would not restrict flow and would encourage scavenging of the gas from the cylinder which is a very good thing. But this is where my helpfulness stops as I don't know the shape required to do this but I do know that you will need to do it otherwise it will hurt performance.

 

I do think that the twin turbo crossflow setup will still cost you around the $5000 even from the position you are in with the parts you have. You will need to look at valve size in the head, valve spring rate (double springs doesn't mean much) otherwise you are just wasting your time and money. Doing stuff on a budget is fine but if your not prepared to spend the money where it needs to be spent you may as well not even start. As I said you will get 200rwkw with your current NA setup with a bit of tweaking and fine tuning (most likely will need a couple of changes but you aren't that far off)

 

What are you hoping to do with the car? Any serious racing like drag racing, power cruise, circuit racing or just cruising? What diff ratio's are you planning/running? Auto or manual trans?

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Use the EA/EB Multipoint intake manifold, ED one is about 2mm bigger in the runners not that it matters with boost, get the XE/XF intermediary manifold (one with injector bungs on it) and mate the two together, i'd remove the mating surfaces and weld them together so it looks nice.

 

Use 1000cc injectors and an 044 pump with a decent reg. Now you have EFI part done and  the E series manifold should work much better with piping to the intercooler. I'd use the cheapest haltec ECU personally ... cheap one for 4 cyl will do! you not going to need more than a couple of injector drivers and  single ignition driver. You have to be mental to use a carb with a turbo motor these days, you either pay through the nose to build a box and enclose the carb in a box or try and boost reference a carb (which will leak) or go for a draw though carby where a backfire will fucking send you off in style :)

 

Now you think this is cheap but I have to tell you it's not, if you think you can get it done under 5k you're dreaming. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but yeah. You'll end up spending at least 2k to get a C4 behind that thing, or a single rail for the cheap fasts but it might not like that much HP.

 

Be very careful with the return oil lines, mistakes there will set your car aflame. Heatseaker cams are crap well they are the "stage 1 2 btty" their most aggressive one is not even middle of the road CamTech hydraulic. Anti pump up lifters ... throw them in the bin.

 

Doing 200rwkw NA will cost you 7k before you break anything. 1k carb and intake, 2k rebuild head (more like 3k but lets make it cheap), 1k machining, 1k fueling and cooling, you're up to 5k and haven't touched the bottom end yet! 7k is doable if you can spin some spanners yourself and keep in mind no drive train mods in that 7k

 

If you skimp on things and take it to a dyno or drags you will break it. It will cost you more to fix.

 

$500 for a dyno tune? really? you must have some good friends!

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205rwkw in an XF with a single rail and street tyres and circuit racing setup (no weight transfer to the rear) was good for high 12 dude! In a leaded arrow you'd be running low 12's, it just bags the rears something chronic and i couldn't pedal the thing for shit over the quarter

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200rwkw is very obtainable from your current setup without the turbo, but that is a good thing that you are expecting less power but spending more money. I really am not trying to talk you out of the twin turbo setup, just trying to give you a realistic point of view. I am more than happy to help you where ever I can as I really am interested in a twin turbo setup, but don't hold your breath on me starting a turbo setup as I am still a long time away from getting my NA setup running.

 

Looking at your first post the second design you put up for the exhaust manifold has merit, it just needs a little adjustment. If you changed it from a flat plate to a round pipe with a good transition it would not restrict flow and would encourage scavenging of the gas from the cylinder which is a very good thing. But this is where my helpfulness stops as I don't know the shape required to do this but I do know that you will need to do it otherwise it will hurt performance.

 

I do think that the twin turbo crossflow setup will still cost you around the $5000 even from the position you are in with the parts you have. You will need to look at valve size in the head, valve spring rate (double springs doesn't mean much) otherwise you are just wasting your time and money. Doing stuff on a budget is fine but if your not prepared to spend the money where it needs to be spent you may as well not even start. As I said you will get 200rwkw with your current NA setup with a bit of tweaking and fine tuning (most likely will need a couple of changes but you aren't that far off)

 

What are you hoping to do with the car? Any serious racing like drag racing, power cruise, circuit racing or just cruising? What diff ratio's are you planning/running? Auto or manual trans?

pretty much just a week end driver , bit of drag for fun nothing serious , powercruise if things plan out , im running a single rail atm and planing to stick with it and not go auto , i do have 2 t5's sitting in the shed reco'd but going to be selling them , eventually was thinking of dropping a built top loader behind it or a celica 5 speed , im also running 3.23 diff gears 28 spline borgwarner with minispool > shhhh not so legal,previous owner, been looking around for 3.55's or 3.77's gear for lsd. plans are to go 9 inch with 4 link set up 5 stud and upgrade the front with 5 stud and big brake kit.

 

Broken Wheel

8k easy for NA Build thats for sure and you wouldn't get any spare change from that , thats why im wanting the turbo route N/a will always be the most expensive way , i seriously think $3500 would cover this turbo build engine wise , add another 1500 to 2k for a 9 inch Diff , gearbox i think i would get away with a single rail for awile but long term it would blow. probs get a few months out of it as its only a week end car not a daily ,  205 rwkw really run 12's in a xf ??? i mean 230awkw in a subaru wrx only runs 13's ? would of thought the wrx would have a quicker time but i guess 250's would have a heap more torque. im not building a monster just something i can drive on a week end and have a bit of fun in . heard you can just bolt turbo's onto stock 250's and run something  like 17 psi dont know what power figures are though.

 

after reading everything you guys have said im kind of now on the fence as to what i should do , im really now kind of thinking of throwing the turbo's on a back burner again as im really appreciating your guys input , im more now leaning towards getting everything else setup first EG like a solid drive Line , im not taking any of your comments negative in anyway as your pointing things out that i have neglected to think about ,  and your information has been very help full and are saving me troubles in the long run.

 

and yes 500 for dyno is cheap and yes i do have a mate to do the dynoing , step brother lucky enough my mother married the right guy :) only charged me 350 last time for a v8 ZJ fairlane , that was a whole other build ,sold it due  to wanting a change , kinda wish i never dumped money in it as it was a car that never really had my heart , just had a 2500 tonne lard ass dumping money into a car i just wanted cause it had a mid worked 351  cause i was young and dumb and thought money grew on tree's and was never the car i really wanted to keep and thought you could make anything fast and be the cool kid with a v8 on his p's smashing commodores lol

 

bit of back story

was first ever cortina i had ever seen and fell in love with it immediately and had to have it , best mate bought it when i was 17 tried for years to buy it from him and he wouldn't sell it , he then bought a new car and this car just sat in his front yard for 5 years uncovered and not touched , kept throwing offers at him for it wouldn't budge , at 26 i finally owned it ,cash and a kx60 dirt bike his way , paid to much to be honest, but the personal value of the car to me is worth every cent , so many memories and great times in it , 1st car i have ever actually worked my ass off for and sacrificed food and going out , every other car i have owned and had to do this much work on just to get it back to road worthy state i have just said fuck it and sold it , i have finally got the car im going to keep , never thought id ever say this about any car  but its a car i actually enjoy working on. my mates all have supra's and mx5's and xr6t's and give me so much shit and laugh and joke how there cars make more power and have better everything and are clean and smick , but at the end of the day i have the car i want , a car that has personality and not every tom  dick an harry has one , as im sure you guys understand .

 

as another interesting  topic with this car it is clearly a TE , but on the VIn plates its says its a 1981 TF , clearly it is not a TF  , TF doors wont fit and the shape is not TF , i have also removed the radiator and checked the support for chassis, vin's match and their 100% correct , even the color code is correct ,  factory it was green as u can see in pics of engine bay , i haven't been able to find much more out about it , i have heard though there were a few TE's Vin'd as TF's on the change over but i have also heard there was supposedly a few rare Te's and were marked as TF's that got extra stuff ? , never seen any proof of this just word of mouth,

 

ill post some pic's up has had allot of work done already including the 6cyl conversion also has full steel custom body kit ,side skirts , custom front guards , custom front bar and xf rear bar and tail lights , race seats,battery in boot, all mod plated and engineered , also it is getting resprayed in 5 weeks as the 2 pac paint was cracking in places and had a few bubbles from rust in middle of doing the prep work on it as we speak just undercoating it and putting 12 gallons of plastidip as im getting a kit really cheap, also having the rear drag looking wheels modified this week as you can see even with just 225's there sticking out the guards .

 

engine out replacing oil pump and checked bottom end clearances 

 

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010051W1435761691256300

 

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010061W1435761691256300

 

engine back in after a refresh

 

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010031W1435761691256300

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010021W1435761691256300

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010041W1435761691256300

Battery in boot , only pic i have on pc

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010011W1435761691256300

Interior needs some work but getting there slowly , older photo's allot tidier now

 

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010091W1435761691256300

 

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010161W1435761691256300

 

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010081W1435761691256300

outside pic's

 

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010121W1435761691256300

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010101W1435761691256300

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010111W1435761691256300

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010131W1435761691256300

Front Bar with out grille in and slight modification to steering angle

 

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010071W1435761691256300

More later pic's with the wheels i was talking about , have never seen them in a 4 stud cortina pattern before but i love them to death , as u can see the rears dont fit so there getting modified by 30mm in the offset this week. as u can also see a bit of rust in the rear quarter and wheel arch , that is also now fixed , the rust in the quarter looks really bad i was surprised when i took the 2 pac off  it was just a bit of surface rust with 2 pin head rust holes , the wheel arch was pretty fudged though wielded in some new plate and shaped it with a thin layer of bog all fixed :)

 

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010141W1435761691256300

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010151W1435761691256300

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Righto enough doom and gloom back to helping. And thats a nice car you have there.

Do you know what the current exhaust manifolds are made of?

Im guessing the turbos are internal wastegate?

What intercooler where you thinking of using? Is the plan to merge the pipework before the intercooler or run seperate pipes into the intercooler?

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Why would you need 1000cc injectors for 200rwkw? Even Bosch green 42lb injectors like these: http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/1078880274 will do it with plenty of headroom. Maybe it's just me but I think it's being over thought. Where is the 7k+? If only running 10psi, just keep the 9.3:1 comp, get the tune right, happy days. Don't get me wrong it won't cost nothing but I think it's quite achievable to do this on a sensible budget with some thought.

 

Running a grafted sohc intake manifold : not really worth it other than to have the throttle body facing forwards. They are still a small volume for a 250 Ci turbo engine anyway, having it modified by someone who can TIG ally will cost more money than it's worth. Money that could be spent on bigger gains elsewhere. Bolt up a 250 EFI bunch of bananas run a couple of elbows in the pipework and be done with it I say.

 

If fabricating/modding the manifold yourself is a problem I would sit the front turbo and manifold in there. Cut off your rear manifold flanges and reposition the turbine flange by tacking on pieces of flat bar or angle between the header flange and turbine flange to dummy fit the rear turbo. Make your dump pipes fit and take the dummy positioned flanges to your fabricator with some dimensions of clearances etc and tell them you want these 3 pipes merged into that flange in the given space. That way they can make a jig and go from there. This will save money if you've done all the measuring for them.

 

A basic $200 bar & plate intercooler will do the trick, single entry is fine. Just utilise the compressor outlet flanges & crossover pipework that you have. Merge the two compressor outlet pipes into a single 2.5" tube. It will require some cutting & shutting to change the pipe orientation. Depending on the room in the nose of the Cortina you may have to run a squarer style intercooler to fit it in. For intercooler pipework just use 2.5" mild steel mandrel exhaust bends welded together in combination with silicone bends. Get your intercooler mounted then go from there.

 

It's not a 5 minute job but still, it's not a space shuttle either. It's a cool project, I'd love to see it happen.

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If fabricating/modding the manifold yourself is a problem I would sit the front turbo and manifold in there. Cut off your rear manifold flanges and reposition the turbine flange by tacking on pieces of flat bar or angle between the header flange and turbine flange to dummy fit the rear turbo. Make your dump pipes fit and take the dummy positioned flanges to your fabricator with some dimensions of clearances etc and tell them you want these 3 pipes merged into that flange in the given space.

I really don't think the rear turbo is going to fit with the front turbo in the current position. In the second pic in the OP the turbo is hitting on both the booster and the firewall, so if it moves it needs to move the entire diameter of the booster but since it's a corty you can't rotate it to far down as it will contact the chassis rail and inside 1/4 guard. I think the only option will be to move both turbos forward and the front turbo down as well, this will allow room for the rear turbo to come forward but still leave room for the dump pipe coming out of the rear of the front turbo

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I really don't think the rear turbo is going to fit with the front turbo in the current position. In the second pic in the OP the turbo is hitting on both the booster and the firewall, so if it moves it needs to move the entire diameter of the booster but since it's a corty you can't rotate it to far down as it will contact the chassis rail and inside 1/4 guard. I think the only option will be to move both turbos forward and the front turbo down as well, this will allow room for the rear turbo to come forward but still leave room for the dump pipe coming out of the rear of the front turbo

It may squeeze in if you bring the rear turbo down and forward tucked underneath the manifold with the turbine entry approximately in line with cyl # 4, and re clock the comp cover to suit. I think some better pics would help

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if i get time tomorrow ill take pic's of the dump pipe's and the turbo manifolds , i think XPTcrossy is on the right track and your way would work also Wagoon with the placement , move front turbo as well so the turbo sits at number cylinder 1 , rear turbo set it forward around number cylinder 4 and raise it slightly or lower it would have to check the measurements ,need to keep in mind there are being run off 1 single actuator linked to 2nd turbo by a bar that is adjustable to open the wastegate. worst case scenario im thinking is the rear turbo might have to go up higher and i cut a hole in the bonnet and mold a kind of scoop out of fiberglass , bonnet has about 7 rust hole's anyways witch i just cut out and fiber glassed and filled , if it ended up being this way it is not all bad as id do it for the front as well and have a cold air intake through the bonnet .

i can also see where wagoon and broken wheel was coming from with the costs and the work needed and i would completely agree with them if i was building a high horsepower monster that needed a smick finish seriously i think i can do this with $3500 might even have change if i shop around an take my time. there are places i can save money where it will not harm like 2nd hand ECU i have been looking at the Haltech Sprint 500 series just have to make sure i get high resistance injectors. , http://www.haltech.com/product/platinum-sprint-series/platinum-sprint-500/

run xf/xe intake / EB intake , undecided , and port size match to my head with a bigger 65mm throttle body from a Ea or EF .

inter-cooler would be like this , but more in a Bar Shape then what this one is i think to uterlize the area better
placed below front bumper bar , and run the pipe work in through the bar underneath like this > warning heres comes my shit MS paint Skills again.
http://postimg.org/image/nreiy0smz/
and enlarge the holes with a drill hole cutting pit and run the pipework up underneath into the engine bay.
^ this is not set in stone as there are many ways i could do the cooler the problem with this design is i have to run allot of pipe back to the intake plenum back up to top of the motor , probably make it work useing a universal intake pipe kit to some extant , just might cause allot of boost lag , a water to air cooler might be another option also but then i need to worry about heat soak if its in the engine bay.

thing is it does not have to look pretty , just has to be done right enough to pass for a engineer and for it to function and not pre det , gt2856's are water and oil cooled , but they are small turbo's.


i will also take pic's of that head i got with the turbo's i had another look today and cant see any marking suggesting whether there c1 or c2 c2a might just have to look harder , but the valves do look huge in it , hardly any space between the intake and exhaust valves and they come right out 1mm off hitting the chamfer of the cylinder chamber ,

ill leave it at this tonight im dead tired been sanding and prepping all day , and tomorrow hopefully i get time to take these pictures for you guys , if not ill be back monday with pic's and some more idea's possibley


here is a vid of what it sound's like N/A atm from a few months ago , and how quick it rev's up ,idling a bit high , just got back from the servo , Fuck Fuel economy lmao

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First up nice car GO THE CORTYS

And this may or may not help but you can get a TF brake booster bracket that will take the booster closer to the firewall and create more room in the bay

 

 

Cortina for life

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E32CBB93-66FA-49F1-912A-49654993C742_zps What I was saying is like this but in reverse......

You might need to get another wastegate actuator so that they have 1 each. A single actuator is strange.

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When you say get it passed an engineer is that for rego purpose? Also when taking pic if you can put a ruler or something with markings so we can see how much room.

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