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SPArKy_Dave

WARNING - AFTERMARKET BALL JOINTS - DANGER!

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now i need to get under the xc... and double check the pedders shit i have in the front end, not that it matters im yanking it out and putting something decent in.

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Bump

 

Has anyone actually  fitted the MOOG K8142 ball joints into their XD or ZJ Fairlane?

 

I have bought those as upper balljoints and they fit fine for my XE and the lower control arms MOG-CK8123 as well. The bushes on the control arm uses 1/2 inch camber bolts but DO NOT GET MOG-ES363RL and MOG-ES360RL for the Tie Rod ends as the shaft is smaller and more likely to fit on the older Falcons like XK - XT.

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THREAD UPDATED - pic's on page one!
[mention=21]Mr Polson[/mention], what upper ball joints does Repco sell in Tassy?
TRW. Silverline balljoints are long gone, unless a few stores have old stock laying around.

I personally prefer to offer WASP suspension parts to my customers if they can wait for it to be ordered in.
Unlike TRW, WASP parts are greasable, and normally around half the price.

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6 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

There are add-on's, to fix the photobucket image blocking.

 

You should screen print or save image and re upload. I cant see them ..photobucket might fail completely one day and they will be gone forever 

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Since this thread was created, there's a seller "Resto Country" who I've happily purchased items from in the past, wondering if anyone has any knowledge or experience in regards to the steering and suspension parts they now offer for our X-series?

 

Specifically https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Ball-Joint-UPPER-XA-XB-XC-XD-XE-XF-XG-Falcon-Fairlane-ZF-ZG-ZH-ZK-ZJ-ZL-x2/351418552391 and whether anyone has previously asked what brand or specs they supply? The price seems good, better than some others, but as we know from this thread, going on price alone is dangerous here.

 

If no one already knows, I may ask the question directly.

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mate if it's made in china don't buy it, I went through this and with the value of XD/XE's going through the roof at the moment just buy mustang arms and use US made ball joints, screw in type 

 

I have rolled an XF because of a failed ball joint and was lucky the cage saved me, will never buy a china made critical part again for these things unless I'm giving it to someone I don't like

 

When I see tie rod ends and ball joints on eBay I cringe .....but like they say when buying helmets ... Where there is no sense there is no feeling 

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-d0oz-3049-a/make/ford/model/mustang these would probably be the ticket methinks for a cheap ball joint that's probably better than 99% of shit available in Australia 

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Am I better off cleaning up my existing upper and lower control arms and replacing the ball joints and bushes with trupro and/or superpro parts (see link) or can I be lazy and get the most likely chinamade upper and lower arms from rarespares that already have ball joints and bushes installed? 

 

https://www.superspares.com.au/front-superpro-suspension-rebuild-kit-for-ford-fal~10142674

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Am I better off cleaning up my existing upper and lower control arms and replacing the ball joints and bushes with trupro and/or superpro parts (see link) or can I be lazy and get the most likely chinamade upper and lower arms from rarespares that already have ball joints and bushes installed? 
 
https://www.superspares.com.au/front-superpro-suspension-rebuild-kit-for-ford-fal~10142674
Nothing beats OEM quality. Whatever factory parts you can use, I say hold on to them and replace only what needs doing.

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20 minutes ago, gerg said:

Nothing beats OEM quality. Whatever factory parts you can use, I say hold on to them and replace only what needs doing.

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Yeah mate, I guess I knew the answer while posting. I've since ordered WASP ball joints and will clean up the existing control arms. Considering Nolathane bushes, are there any negatives with these?
 

 

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 Considering Nolathane bushes, are there any negatives with these?


In my experience, no they are pretty good now. In the past, Nolathane had a period when they messed up their compound and bushes were flogging out very quickly. That gave other brands like Whiteline and SuperPro a chance to make inroads into the market. I think Nolathane has lifted it's game again though.

That said, I still try and install some kind of grease nipple into a urethane suspension joint to avoid the possibility of it drying out/squeaking at some point. Moly grease does an ok job on assembly, but I like to be able to replenish this without having to dismantle everything.

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The only problem with paying more for a quality part, is that it can be difficult to know if your paying more for a quality part, or just paying more.

 

Aka, you don't get what you pay for. Plenty of times I've spent more to get a good item and ended up with the same pos item that I could have imported from china. 

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The only problem with paying more for a quality part, is that it can be difficult to know if your paying more for a quality part, or just paying more.
 
Aka, you don't get what you pay for. Plenty of times I've spent more to get a good item and ended up with the same pos item that I could have imported from china. 
Yep, I concur. Went to the trouble of getting a USA-made Facet fuel pump, only to have it fail after a year. I now run a Chinese-made Goss copy and plan on getting a second one to keep in the car. I love the simplicity of them, but they should be much more reliable than that.

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3 hours ago, gerg said:

Yep, I concur. Went to the trouble of getting a USA-made Facet fuel pump, only to have it fail after a year. I now run a Chinese-made Goss copy and plan on getting a second one to keep in the car. I love the simplicity of them, but they should be much more reliable than that.

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i've got 2 new chinese ones ($9 each or $13? ) and an old one.. guess which one i'll be fitting to the car.. not the new ones.*(handy for draining fuel out of the tank for mowers etc  though)

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i've got 2 new chinese ones ($9 each or $13? ) and an old one.. guess which one i'll be fitting to the car.. not the new ones.*(handy for draining fuel out of the tank for mowers etc  though)
Yeah the Goss cost a bit more than that... I think it's not bad quality and Goss has a name to keep up

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Cheers for the input. I've gone for a mix of nolathane and WASP and will keep original control arms. I will most likely get them sandblasted but not sure whether to powder coat or paint? Whats the best coating for this application?

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Cheers for the input. I've gone for a mix of nolathane and WASP and will keep original control arms. I will most likely get them sandblasted but not sure whether to powder coat or paint? Whats the best coating for this application?
Paint mate, powdercoat chips and gets moisture under it.
Just sand them back and hit them with some matt black kill rust or similar.

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From factory, the arms were assembled with the rubber bushes,

 

then dipped in a vat of direct-to-metal anti-corrosion satin paint - just prior to the bushes,

and lastly, they had the ball joints riveted in.

 

The rivets were then marked with a dab of paint, during the quality control inspection.

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