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All torque 6 cyl

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Since selling my 60 series landcruiser I have been without a car with a towbar . My sedan has a towbar and while it will be fun and a novelty to go to the tip with a solid roller cammed crossy long term I need a better solution, also when the day comes that the xe turns into a racecar( yes it will happen for one of several reasons) the sedan can't tow itself. My current daily drive is not an ideal solution as not only does it not have a towbar but it is a 200 crossflow which wouldn't pull the skim of rice custard unless revving to 4 grand. So I can see 3 different options available to me:

1. Stick with the wagon as I have a spare 250 engine in pieces in the shed which I could possibly put together as a reringer. The wagon has some rust issues but is generally in pretty good condition and its a factory 4 speed.

2. This weekend I will be looking at an xf ute with a 250 auto, it apparently has no rust and is a low km car. It also does not have a towbar but that is no major drama.

3. I have been told about an eb xr6 that is up for sale locally, it has duel fuel, auto (no auto cooler) and a 1600kg towbar. The paint is faded but other than that its is apparently in pretty good condition.

Option 2 and 3 cost less than $1500 so don't bother saying I should buy an AU or what ever, if you can't offer me something for under $2000 I can't afford it. 

 

I am really not sure on which way I should go as this WILL be my everyday car. To me towing long term especially a car trailer needs to be done with a leaf sprung vehicle, and mod cons like a/c don't bother me. If I bought the xr6 I would make it straight lpg fitting an impco 425 on a 4 barrel manifold with an ignition system like a crossflow. That would get rid of the computer (sensors are getting old and are expensive to replace) and the damn coil packs (I hate coil packs) would no longer exist. But this all cost a fair bit of money and if the xr6 was only going to be 10-20% better on fuel and maintenance cost I would rather stick to the crossflow, as over time it would make the crossy more economical.

But if I was to stick with the crossflow I would need a camshaft change to increase the torque, but which cam is the best? The other option is a low boost turbo setup on a the standard 250 crossflow, I would use something no bigger than an a standard late model xr6 turbo, so that it would come on strong down low and produce lots of torque. But can a low boost turbo setup on a standard engine cope with with towing?

 

Discuss

 

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I will add that doing a sohc or barra conversion into an x series is out of the question as the cost to wiring it into the car makes it not affordable. This is not a project car it is my everyday car and if it can't be done over a Saturday and Sunday it can't be done.

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Fyi Eb doesn't have coil packs, I'd personally pick the the eb as a daily/ tow car, plenty of torque reasonably cheap to run and not as valuable to you if you just drive it into the ground

 

 

Yep. Ive bought many  e series and ran them into  the ground  Kangaroos, then i just buy another lol. they tow and drive 100x better than an xf

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EB no coil pack really? So only ef and au run coil packs in the e series? I had an ef wagon that when the coilpacks went was a massive pain and the only reason I don't like e series. Might have to go look at this xr6 then. Thanks for the correction guys.

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I brought a Xh ute about 7 years ago for $2000 with rego and I towed with that thing every single day for a couple of years (150000 in those years ) and I have only ever had a few minor problems with it and I have done no maintenance on it at all ......and I mean no maintenance I have never even changed the oil or filter it's now up to 350000+ and still going strong I say go the 4.0 and flog it to death lol

 

 

Cortina for life

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Any of those options will be great. I'd go the ute. I love throwing shit in the back when I move a car. Ramps/straps/jacks/wheels/tools. With decent (new or reset) leafs they barely notice. Crossflow still feels good to tow with even compared to the 4.0 or a 5.0 to me.

 

The other thing is you can use it to move all sorts of shit.

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Gas on a stocker engine will give you great torque low and mid-range, and cost bugger all to run. E- series are stupid reliable if you keep the coolant up to them to help prevent any head gasket dramas.

 

The wagon could then be pulled off the road to fix at your leisure.

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Go the ute.

 

Add

 

CT142

503B-110

(a)

Slight lope at idle, excellent

low end and mid range power, suitable for standard or slightly modified engines.

RPM RANGE 1400-5000

 

MAN

OR

HI-STALL 264˚ 264˚ 208˚ 208˚ .477" .477" 110˚ HYD HYD HT900

HT900R

(Anti pump up) TG250XF YTX/F

 

Add zorst. Shove a 3:08 or 3.23 from an ef el in the ass

 

350 Holley or rejected ( rejetted fuck ipad spell check ) weber.

 

That should make plenty

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So clearly I know stuff all about eb/ed - guessing eb and ed are same? Do the auto's have the same issues as the ef/el with cooler in radiator and lack of fluid service leads to fucked box? Have to have a trans cooler for longer trans life when towing? Cylinder head issues- the cars are getting older and it seems that the heads on a 4L can go without notice unless as greg said you take care of it, and if buying a second hand car its hard to if it has truly been serviced correctly.

And as for keeping the xe wagon, its a daily so it would not be required if I have another daily. Mind you if my son wants my sedan as his first car, I like the idea of a racing wagon with a hypo 6 in it. Just the thing to piss of the racing crowd.

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Go the EB and just treat it like a ute.  Having said that I love my XF utes.  If you decide to go that way and the engine is stuffed I have 2 very low k engines up here that will fit the bill. 

 

Or do you want me to fix the rust and send this down

 

230315_001.jpg

 

91 xf auto (no air) 121000ks on the clock. runs like a dream.

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I do prefer a leaf sprung vehilce as a tow car and thats where the idea of the xf ute came in. It is pretty much a like for like with my wagon but requires far less money to be spent on it to get it to reliable towing spec and is the only reason I am even considering getting it. I hate selling cars and if I got the ute I would need to sell the wagon to pay for it. Same with the eb which I actually found out its and ed xr6 when I spoke to the bloke this morning. The main idea behind this thread was to see whether its worth spending money on the wagon, buy the ute or the eb/ed. And I think its pretty clear the e series is the way to go although I still dont like the gearbox and cylinder head issues. But suppose unless I get a rebuilt engine or a car with full reciepts they are all going to be a risk.

Thank you everyone for your input, I really didnt know which way to go and you guys have helped out heaps.

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The green ute will be saved - its too good to scrap.  Probably keep it for my nephew and throw air in it.  Great first car I reckon. 

 

Go with the ED- that will be a nice car. 

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Just from a $$$$ point of view id go the EB to there a good drive to death car  

Dougie is just a show off. He has never touched the thing bar a coil fuel pump and intake gasket, he pulled a big tandem with it for years and the things still going. But theres a point where good luck starts to get a bit cocky he should be spending a few bucks on it but hey you could touch it and it might fall apart :D

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Go the EB and just treat it like a ute.  Having said that I love my XF utes.  If you decide to go that way and the engine is stuffed I have 2 very low k engines up here that will fit the bill. 

 

Or do you want me to fix the rust and send this down

 

 

 

91 xf auto (no air) 121000ks on the clock. runs like a dream.

 

Ando, what's the story with your low km engines you have? Are they stock or have they been freshened up? I might know another crossflow nut that might want one

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i thought you'd want the BBM for torque 

my biggest regret after i got the boat is selling the AU ute! awesome car the series III were! thing could tow a house, was good on fuel an went ok with 3.27 gears

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