XR6 head scored

[Falcman007 100]

Hey guys!

 

So i have a EB tickford head i am doing up for the ED, I removed the cam and found this!

[Falcman007 100]

The cam is fine though? Even here where it sat there is no damage to the cam?

Anyway can i get this repaired?

 

Cheers, Kim.

[bear351c 10,270]

Everything is repairable, depends on the cost. The cam is made of harder material, so it wont be damaged like the bearing (head).

Never seen it done, but you could machine the head and cap and install an old fashioned cam bearing shell in there.

Might be cheaper to get another head.  The machining alone would be hours...........

 

Sorry, doesn't help you much.

[gerg 10,871]

Yeah seems like an easy job at a glance but the problem is that the cam bearing "cap" doesn't touch the cam at all, just acts as a brace for the valve gear. The valve spring pressure and hydraulic lifters are what push on the cam followers, which hold the cam down into the half-tunnel.

 

Without a full circle (top and bottom halves) it is impossible to line-bore it oversize. It could possibly be reamed using a pilot centred on the next cam bore but that may require a custom-made pilot. Another approach could be to install a speedy-sleeve onto the cam (if they exist in that size) and lap it in to the head somehow. Or stake a bronze half-bush in there and mount the head vertically in a mill and machine to suit.

 

This is all theoretical however, and unless there's someone around who actually has a method of fixing this, a head replacement is on the cards.

[Falcman007 100]

Thanks for the reply guys.

I will take it to the shop and let you know what the go is.

Kind of pissed me off

[Falcman007 100]

Well I dropped the head off and he says it will be fine with a polish.

So it's getting cleaned, planned, crow HD springs, valve regrind and new guide rubbers.

Cost? dunno...LOL

[Falcman007 100]

Heads all done

 

Planned, new crow springs, regrind, guide rubbers, cleaned. And that journal done OK.

 

[Falcman007 100]

Just put it back together as I removed the crow cam and J3 chip.

It's now running the standard the ECU and the EB XR6 Cam.

Took it for a spin and it goes HARDER! WTF.

Obviously I need a adjustable cam gear to dial in the big crow.

 

( the head, cam and chip is put away until I get more goodys )

[Thom 6,650]

Which crow cam do you have, also do you know what series eb the cam is?

[Falcman007 100]

Which crow cam do you have, also do you know what series eb the cam is?

 Stage 3 can't remember the part number but it ends in 549 i think.

Series 2

[Thom 6,650]

Ok, if you had their smallest cam it's actually a very similar profile to an ea cam

[Menice 331]

i'm using the same cam, you can check my build thread if your interested to see my mods... the biggest thing with that cam is to dyno tune the j3

[Falcman007 100]

i'm using the same cam, you can check my build thread if your interested to see my mods... the biggest thing with that cam is to dyno tune the j3

That ED of yours is bloody nice! What are the wheels?

[Menice 331]

Mc racing, Simon's look alike

[SPArKy_Dave 8,863]

I like the head.... reminds me of the one I built up -

(don't like that he's sandblasted it though. The Alloy will never stay clean now)

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Falcman007 100]

I like the head.... reminds me of the one I built up -

(don't like that he's sandblasted it though. The Alloy will never stay clean now)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice mate! Mines not ported or polished. How did it go?

[SPArKy_Dave 8,863]

Not sure yet.

I haven't fitted it. LOL!

 

It's a brand new aftermarket cylinder head casting too.

[Falcman007 100]

Not sure yet.

I haven't fitted it. LOL!

 

It's a brand new aftermarket cylinder head casting too.

Oh nice that means you still have it LOL!

 

Do you have a build thread?

[SPArKy_Dave 8,863]

I've got some info in the OHC cylinder head section I think.

I don't think I ever started a thread on my XG ute - which the head is for.

 

In this thread - http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/2076-4l-head-flow-figures/

[Falcman007 100]

I've got some info in the OHC cylinder head section I think.

I don't think I ever started a thread on my XG ute - which the head is for.

 

In this thread - http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/2076-4l-head-flow-figures/

Bloody good read mate! Have you seen BARK FORD 6 on youtube? thats a 4.0 with a huge supercharger on it.

 

How would you rate the EB Tickford heads?

 

My ED is a 4.0 that has a EF head on it ATM and pacemakers 2 1/2" system ( no cat )

Plans are the EB tickford head thats just had work to go on with the crow cam and J3 to suit tuned to run 98.

I had the cam in the EF head with J3 and didn't see any real improvment! Cam timing?

Lots going on in my head.

[SPArKy_Dave 8,863]

Seen that BARK EB/ED...... burnout warrior only.

Supercharger is a nice idea, but turbo's are a much cheaper and more proven formula for the OHC sixes, if you wanted to boost the engine.

Forced induction is a commitment either way, if you want the drivetrain to stay reliable.

 

The 94AB heads, flow the best from factory.

and the very first EA cams, are the highest lift from factory.

 

If you can get XR6 spec valves put in a 94AB head, with an EA cam - that's the best bang for buck 'factory' combo that you'll get.

As that thread showed, the xxDT (tickford) heads, actually have less flow in factory spec, than a standard head.

 

Spend the money getting your heads flowed - before and after or standard vs tickford comparison.

Knowing those flow figures, will help you fit a cam with spec's to best suit your chosen cylinder head.

Then you could look at a J3 dyno tune.

[Menice 331]

My head has a port/polish and with slightly bigger valves than xr6 but no flow sheets came with it, would be interesting to see if it was done well. it's a 91AA though...

 

I hear that if you are going to be porting then it's best to use a au head as they have more meat

[Falcman007 100]

Seen that BARK EB/ED...... burnout warrior only.

Supercharger is a nice idea, but turbo's are a much cheaper and more proven formula for the OHC sixes, if you wanted to boost the engine.

Forced induction is a commitment either way, if you want the drivetrain to stay reliable.

 

The 94AB heads, flow the best from factory.

and the very first EA cams, are the highest lift from factory.

 

If you can get XR6 spec valves put in a 94AB head, with an EA cam - that's the best bang for buck 'factory' combo that you'll get.

As that thread showed, the xxDT (tickford) heads, actually have less flow in factory spec, than a standard head.

 

Spend the money getting your heads flowed - before and after or standard vs tickford comparison.

Knowing those flow figures, will help you fit a cam with spec's to best suit your chosen cylinder head.

Then you could look at a J3 dyno tune.

Thanks for that mate

 

The EF head is a 94AB

[efxr6wagon 0]

Sorry to springboard off an ancient thread.  SPArKy_Dave posted some pics (above) of a head build he did, including the cam specs.  I am building a head for my EF XR6 wagon, including a new cam, and was looking for similar specs to Dave's cam.  I want effectively a "Stage 2.5" cam - something between Crow's Stage 2 (198*/194*) and Stage 3 (210*/200*) cams.  Since the demise of Wade cams and their 1673 grind (206*/198*), there is really nothing in this space.  Dave's was a custom grind and I'm going to have to go custom, as well.

 

In deciding the exact spec, I came up with a question that no one has been able to answer so far.  Why do some Falcon cams have a single pattern (same duration on intake and exhaust) and some have a split pattern (different duration intake vs exhaust)?  Among the off-the-shelf Stage 1 to Stage 3 cams available, they range from 0* (single pattern, like Crow 222825) to 10* more intake duration than advance (like Crow 2222549).  Interestingly, Stage 4 and hotter cams are almost all single pattern.

 

The conventional wisdom is that you add duration to either intake or exhaust if its flow is weak in comparison.  For typical American V8s, with "wedge" heads and parallel valves, the exhaust flow tends to be poor, so cams are often specs with more exhaust duration to compensate.  So, the longer intake duration of many of Falcon SOHC cams would imply that intake flow is weak and needing some help.  But I don't think that's the case; the hemi head flows very well up to about 5500rpm, and even the factory induction system is not very restrictive.  If I have heard any complaint about head flow, it is that the exhaust port is too restrictive.  So, theoretically, the split should be the other way - longer exhaust duration.  Does anyone know what actually does work best with the SOHC and why?

 

I have settled on an average duration of about 202* (with 114* LSA to retain decent idle with my automatic).  I could go single pattern 202*/202* or a split pattern of 206*/198* (the old Wade 1673) or something in between (204*/200*?).  What differences would I see?  How would it affect idle quality, torque curve, exhaust sound, induction noise, fuel economy, etc?

 

To complete the picture: my car is my daily driver and we drive it long distances on our holidays, so I'm keeping it reasonably mild.  But I also use it for DYO drag racing over the summer, so it needs to go well too.  Basic specs:

- SS Inductions snorkel, 3" airbox exit, Territory induction tube, oversize 68mm throttle body, Coby headers, cat delete and Tickford 2.5” mandrel-bent exhaust, so it breaths well on both ends

- currently building a mildly-ported and deshrouded Tickford EF XR6 head with 3-angle valve grind and back-cut valves

- skimming it for 10.0-10.2:1 compression to suit the new cam and 98-octane

- vernier cam gear, so I can dial the cam in

- factory 3.45 LSD

- high-stall torque converter (2850rpm at current torque level)

- TI Performance J3 chip and tuning pack, so I can tune the ECU to the new cam and head

 

Any help would be much appreciated.  Thanks.