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Grimmy

Acceptable Orange peel

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He said something about ford only supplying 2nd grade ppg paint . He also said they don't use ppg any more , can't remember why tho . Apparently the paint they use blows on like glass , sounds promising

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Thats typicle tho, "blame the product" and not the painter who put it on.

Nothing wrong with PPG products, its used very widely in the smash repair 

industry both here and the states.

Did he say what brand they use now that 'blows on like glass'?

 

How are they gonna re do it?

If they used PPG the first time then say gonna use Spies Hecker this time

that could create more issues as the paints are different again to each other.

They really gonna have to remove 90% of the base coat and clear to go again.

 

Perhaps they gonna rub it flat and buff it to shine?

or

Rub it flat then apply another PPG base coat and clear?

Id be checking every 3 days on progress to see 'where abouts it at'

If you see it rubbed back again then i hope all will be well this time round.

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If they've got someone there who can actually colour sand and buff a car properly it could be saved. I've saved some pretty shit house finishes that have come up awesome with a good colour sand and buff. If theres solvent boil and is only just at the surface it'll be sanded out. If its deeper than that they will need to re clear it. I doubt that it'll need to be based again unless the painter is in la la land while rubbing it down and gets rub throughs everywhere. Make sure they actually do strip the car down as per the first time and they don't cheat and leave trims handles lights ect on there and just mask the shit up or they are going to make an even bigger mess than what you got now.

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Hey dude. Yeah those shockwave ford's are awesome hahaha. Every one is a full bare metal repaint.

 

Both shops I have worked in have had the contract, Done tones of them. Over the time I've had a few turn out like that.

 

The usual way is to paint them from metal to top coat in one go like they do in the factory. so get em in metal mask em up in the booth,

 

Then one coat of etch, one coat of primer wet on wet style, then base then clear. if you smash it all on to soon or you dont skiff the primer before you start the basecoat you'll get tonnes of peel and dust.

 

If it is covered in solvent boil its definetly been rushed, all that solvent coming thru from the, primer/base and first coat of clear. It will rub out tho.

 

You can still get a mint finish doing it full on wet on wet like that but the secret if giving it all the proper flash off times, and de nib while your painting

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It was still ppg nick. I worked in a shop doing repaints for ford, ford were paying labor, ppg were supplying materials.

There you go, another interesting fact.

 

I'm only going by what I've been told and shown by two different ford dealerships that had cars in for paint/rust issues (BA's BF's FG's).

Both Ford employees had told me that Ford changed paint suppliers to a cheaper brand to save costs.

 

I suppose they don't make cars like they used too, it's all about cheap cheap and getting them out the door.

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There you go, another interesting fact.

 

I'm only going by what I've been told and shown by two different ford dealerships that had cars in for paint/rust issues (BA's BF's FG's).

Both Ford employees had told me that Ford changed paint suppliers to a cheaper brand to save costs.

 

I suppose they don't make cars like they used too, it's all about cheap cheap and getting them out the door.

They may have changed later on,but the shockwave not adhering was a PPG Primer issue,and as I said in the shop I was in PPG were supplying the materials for each repaint.

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Yep the yellow primer was WAY to hard. and actually shiny under the basecoat. just couldnt hold up to the UV. on the top panels you can flick it off with your finger if you want. down on the doors tho it stuck on pretty good.

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