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adrianphu123

Lifters stuck in bore

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Hey guys,

 

Got 2 lifters stuck in their bores in my spare motor, wont come up, wont drop down but has a small window where they move and spin freely. Currently soaking in inox, any ideas?

 

thanks

adrian

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My neighbour use to pull em up as far as possible then pull the cam out and slide a PVC tube up the cam tunnel and push the lifters down from the top and just pull the tube out.They are wiped fat footed and will only come out thru the bottom

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By the sounds of it they have mushroom faces on them, if you force them out you will damage the lifter bores. Proburbly the best way to rmove them is to leave them in there stuck position and carefully remove them from the bottom with the camshaft removed.

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cams been removed and all other lifters were removed with hand force only on the cam side to prevent any damage to the bore

 

and yeah all the lifters were worn in a concave fashion

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I'll give it a go later today. Im building this one up gerg, the one in the XF is going great but without a cam change/increased compression etc i feel it wont get any better.

 

The plan is

 

Bore + hone 0.030 over, zero decked

 

Flat top pistons

Camtech CT142 528 cam

10:1 comp

LPG only

High volume oil pump with extra bearing clearance

ARP rod bolts

 

Still working in the finding other components but hopefully will be a good combination and will be a daily driven street car

 

The head may or may not get bigger inlet valves but will have roller rockers and springs to suit

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Sounds the goods, moderate mods but together will give a nice street engine that puts a smile on your face. Gotta ask though, why the hi-vol pump? It's not a race engine so not really needed. Pretty much all advice on here says to go standard volume.

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Yeah thats what i told the machine shop/engine builder but he recommended it that way. It was explained that a high volume pump with standard clearances will chew out the gear due to the extra load but with extra bearing clearance, the oil has somewhere to go thus relieving the pressure on the pump.

 

Im putting it together myself slowly so ultimately i'll get the final say.

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Yeah thats what i told the machine shop/engine builder but he recommended it that way. It was explained that a high volume pump with standard clearances will chew out the gear due to the extra load but with extra bearing clearance, the oil has somewhere to go thus relieving the pressure on the pump.

 

Im putting it together myself slowly so ultimately i'll get the final say.

 

LOL ask him to show you a gear that has happened too and you post the picture here please :)

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For feks sake - NO PUSHROD FORD ENGINE CREATED NEEDS A HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP - PERIOD. 

 

If your 'ENGINE ASSEMBLER' because clearly they are not an ENGINE BUILDER!!! - tells you that you need one then YOU NEED TO GET YOUR ENGINE AS FAR AWAY AS POSSIBLE FROM THIS IDIOT!!!!!!!

 

 IMG_2073.jpg

 

 

This is the pressure that is achieved thru a proper STANDARD VOLUME OIL PUMP on a 250 mechanical roller cam x flow.  Tell me again why you would want to put a HIGH VOLUME oil pump on any Ford engine - they are just not needed.  I achieve these pressures with 2.5 and 3 on the mains - Go and get your Gregorys manual - it will tell you that with those clearances the engine is WORN OUT - BUT oh no look at what a proper STANDARD VOLUME OIL PUMP is capable of.  Extremely good pressure I'd say.

 

 

So tell me why you want to run a high volume pump....

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My Clevo runs a standard volume pump and at idle, sits at max on the gauge at any temp except once completely warmed up. Even then, it never drops below half at idle, even on a stinking hot day in traffic. Your crossy will be no different.

 

Ford 6s and V8s use Gerotor pumps, which are much more efficient than gear pumps like what Chevs and Holdens use, so unlike them, no hi-vol version is needed on a Ford.

 

Either tell your engine builder you want standard volume and standard bearing clearance, or find someone else.

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Might wanna go roller rockers with that cam, as a general rule you shouldn't go over 0.500" lift with stock rockers.

 

Might be a little hairy for the street too. May i suggest the next one down... The CT142 517. It has 0.510" lift and 218 duration vs 0.534" and 230 on the one you want.

 

If you want to stick to that cam, you could go up a lot more in compression on LPG. I reckon 11:1 would be more like it.

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Yep, already have a set here. Scorpion SCP1069BL non adjustable pedestal mount

 

And that was my concern too, regarding the cam being too big and even asked the guy at camtech if i should go a step down but i think it'll be okay.

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I also agree with stock oil pump, the race engines I built run the same "big" clearance as Ando and the stock pump has plenty of pressure. Ando will give you the measurements for the relief valve, I also do the clearances inside the pump, I run 1.5 thou cover to rotor clearance, that had Ando worried hahaha but all good in the hood.

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The bigger Camtech gets em moving with some comp but it is not really daily freindly.Q's xf runs 1 down I think and you know it has a stick in it.

 

That said if you can live with it give it 11:1 comp bang the big cam in, dial it in (yes it needs to be done) check p/v clearance and hold on cos it will be fun ;)

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I can vouch for the pic Ando posted as that is my hand holding the pressure gauge attached to my roller cammed crossflow in my shed. I have a spare hi volume oil pump sitting in my shed that I wont sell to anyone cause I dont feel right in passing on something that will hurt someone elses engine. I wouldnt even give it away.

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I have the 510 in my Corty and that's heaps of fun I don't use it daily but it's not to bad if you had to use it daily but be prepared to replace your Tyres

 

 

Cortina for life

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