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setting hyd lifters

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Looking at replacing my lifters in the clevo, found this video:

 

Is it that easy? Anything he is missing? I know I have to soak them overnight in oil. Cheers.

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Is it a standard Clevo with standard heads?

 

If it is you don't need to do anything, just pull out the old lifters and put the new ones in, there is generally no need to adjust rockers on a standard engine, the whole point of hydraulic lifters is to take away the need to adjust rockers, but I am not a mechanic.

 

There is a really cool tool you can get for pulling out the old lifters, not sure if you can get them in Aus, I am sure you can somewhere

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As Trevor says, no adjustment needed after initial setting.

 

If your old lifters are mushroomed, you may be in a world of poo. In this case, don't try and lever them up though their bores. You'll badly score them and lose oil pressure from then on. You'll need to hold each lifter up with clothes pegs, yank the cam out and push each lifter down into the cam tunnel. I made up a nifty tool to collect them: cut a 40mm PVC pipe in half down the middle, shove it down into the cam tunnel and push each lifter out one by one into it. Carefully remove individually so you don't drop any of them into the guts of the motor.

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When I switched to alloys I have to run a 7/16th stud roller I set them up once and forgot about them its 12.000km in now and still fine

just set and forget if it has a chatter look close as there may be a issue

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Wow, a lot of input thanks guys. So just to clear up, there was no mushrooming on lifter. It slid out perfectly fine as there was still heaps of oil everywhere. I'm just tossing up between replacing the one lifter that's damaged myself, or taking it to a new engine guy that a mate has dealt with building his car with. If it's as easy as the video, I can do it at home. It will be easier running in one lifter rather than a whole new set of them. Going to speak to new engine guy soon.

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In the video he is setting preload by pitch of the thread. If you know the thread pitch is, for example, m10x1.25, then you know 1 full turn is 1.25mm, which will give you your preload. remember the fulcrum when setting preload this way is the valve stem and the effort is the rocker nut. The amount of preload will be affected by the rocker ratio. If the ratio is 1:1 and you move the point of effort (the rocker nut) downward 1mm then the load (preload in this case) will move down 2mm.

If you want to set up preload properly, install the rocker to zero lash like in the video, then stop. Get a metal rule and place it across the top of the head, where the rocker cover gasket usually sits, so that it sits against the pushrods. Get a paint pen/white texter and mark roughly this position with a fat line. Then use the rule again, at zero lash and mark a line on the pushrod with a sharp scribe. 

Then tighten the rocker down. Again use the rule to mark a second line on the pushrod. The distance between these 2 lines is your preload. Typical preload is .020-.060" or 0.5-1.5mm

 

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Thanks for the info guys. Went to a performance shop in The area and the guys there quoted me around $800 to install whole new set of lifters, and to run them in. Think I'm going to go ahead and just replace the guts of one as stated above and see how it goes. If all goes pear shaped I'll look at going rollerised but that will mean car off the road for a while as I don't have the funds.

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Wow they really mustn't want your business if they're charging that much. I'd expect a cam thrown in with that as well, with a couple of oil filters and 2 lots of oil (one for break-in). That's just robbery.

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