Thom 6,650 Posted March 24, 2013 Ok here are a couple of photos of the oil supply mod you can do to any clevo ( except the new arrow blocks and blocks with a oil restrictor kit as they won't see any improvement ) to remedy the terrible factory oiling that supply the cam and top end first an leaves the crank to starve at higher rpm. It's pretty simple all you do is remove the oil gallery plug next to the fuel pump boss and run a line ( can be hard ot flexible, i personally prefer hard line) to the oil pressure sender at the rear of the engine with a t piece so you can still run and oil pressure switch, what this does is prioritize oil supply to the crank first so you done end up with rocker covers full of oil and a starved bottom end. 3 Ants, robbie and XES reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted March 24, 2013 Second photo i forgot 3 Ants, robbie and scottly reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregaust 319 Posted March 25, 2013 That looks good. Actually just saw similar setup on eBay with braided Teflon line and tee piece for oil pressure switch exactly as you described. Look up item # 1 robbie reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregaust 319 Posted March 25, 2013 300880292157 1 robbie reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted March 25, 2013 Works well. Nascar fix, I think.... been proven that cranks starve at high revs. If you dont rev the Clevo to 8,000 you prob wont need it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted March 25, 2013 You need it if you constantly spin a clevo over 3000 rpm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supersnake 27 Posted March 26, 2013 You should knock them up and sell them, I've seem the flexible ones but would like a solid line like what you have. Let me know if you're keen! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted March 27, 2013 Finding the time is the trouble Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trev Vaa 1,185 Posted April 2, 2013 this works ok, i still like changing the pressure releif spring in the oil pump though.... 80psi spring makes it safe to roughly 7500rpm, anything above that is a bit of a guess, should be ok to 8, but yeah who knows. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XES 859 Posted April 2, 2013 That's a great simple mod Thom. Is that 5/16 or 3/8 Bundy tube? And are they just compression fittings into the block? We sell all that stuff at work so I reckon I'll be doing this mod soon. Good idea. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted April 3, 2013 Yes 5/16 and compression fittings pretty simple to make just time consuming Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ianxy351 0 Posted April 25, 2013 I ran this oiling mod on a 460 BBF that was in a drag car. The engine ended up throwing a rod but the interesting thing was that the damage to the crank was limited only to the journal where the rod failed. Even with the loss of oil pressure in the system the bypass line kept oil to the rear of the crank. It demonstrated how the bypass line helped even the oiling out from front to rear. On the down side, I reckon we would have picked up the failed rod earlier if the bypass wasn't there - we would have seen the drop in oil pressure. The bypass line effectively masks an oil pressure drop because it plumbs into the back of the motor right at the point where the pressure sender is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scottly 475 Posted February 3, 2020 I’m bringing a old thread to life here does any one know the thread where the oil line exits the block near the oil filter? Is it 3/8 npt? any help would be appreciated, thanks scott Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted February 3, 2020 Yep, same as the oil sender. Are you doing the bypass tube?Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk 1 scottly reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scottly 475 Posted February 3, 2020 I purchased a Aeroflow 3/8 npt to -4 fitting for a turbo oil feed line, I recently had to remove this fitting to upsize to a -6 oil supply fitting. When I removed the Old fitting I noticed the thread on the fitting wasn’t in good shape. Instead of the thread Pitch going up to nice sharp points it looked blunt does that make sense? so before I purchase the new fitting I just want to be certain that it is 3/8 npt. The factory grub screw winds in and out fine so it not cross threaded. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted February 3, 2020 Anything American will be NPT. Anything British or older Jap stuff will be BSPT. There is a 1 TPI difference between the two on most sizes. You can tighten the shit out of it to seal but will mash the threads. Maybe the fitting you pulled out was BSP?Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk 1 scottly reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scottly 475 Posted February 3, 2020 Yeah I’m going to do a bit more research I think. I’ll take the grub screw to a few places tonight Hopefully some one can match it. I do remember holding the old 3/8 npt fitting next to the grub screw and the thread looked exactly the same. 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted February 4, 2020 Thought about doing the lifter bore sleeve mods.? Fixes all the oiling issues. 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites