Strongest Cleveland engine blocks?

[scottly 475]

Hey guys, I have read many discussions over the last couple of years about Cleveland bocks and their weekness issues that they suffer from but putting that a side what is the strongest factory cast of Cleveland block to aim for when building a new engine. I have heard the pillow block, the Xd,Xe blocks, early American cast that were cast in Australia?

 

If some one could clear this up for me and maybe for a lot other people aswell would be great plus it's Clevo talk

[gerg 10,871]

Sounds like you're pretty onto it, from what i can gather Pillow blocks are the better choice if you can find one that isn't core-shifted. I've heard that US-cast ones may be of better nickel content but cant confirm. Worst ones would be later black non-pillow blocks. I guess it's not necessarily about which type of block but rather finding a good example that's not corroded in the jacket and was cast with straight cores.

[Thom 6,650]

Or a nascar block, pretty rare to find one here without core shift though, what sort of power are you chasing?

[wagoon 2,429]

If your not in a hurry hunt around and you way find something, but dont forget your going to need to pay a machinist to measure and check each block properly that you think is good enough. Or if your not under any class restriction would you look at aftermarket block, they will work out about the same cost after you have check a block or 2 then get machining done. But as Thom said depends on power your chasing really.

[Olive Xm 34]

If I was to do it again I would just get an after market one like this.

http://www.pavtek.com.au/index.php/component/content/article/7-parts-a-products/parts-a-products/236-new-ford-cleveland-aftermarket-block

 

Adds a bit more to the build cost but saves you from worrying about core shift, thin walls and the oiling issues. 

[scottly 475]

I am not planning a build yet this is just a topic I have been thinking about for a while as I have heard so many different story's about what block to use, if you put pillow blocks and nascar blocks a side is there a desired cast of block to hunt for say 450hp as an example? or is it a case of if you where to use a standard ford cast Cleveland block is it a game of trying to find one with original bores, no core shift, passed sonic and crack test?

 

I know if I where to get a engine built for 550hp plus I would definitely use a revised aftermarket block

[bear351c 10,270]

It's hit and miss, these days. You will have to get the block tested/x-rayed/Magna fluxed or whatever, before you get 500 hp. Otherwise you could be wasting time and effort. Coreshift was a big problem in Clevo blocks, but it was the 1970's after all. !!! Blue collar workers in a foundry, pulling minimum wage............ I'd prolly get one from an engine builder, let them do all the work.

 

I believe Arrow started making Clevo blocks again.

 

http://www.horsepowermonster.com/2013/the-worlds-first-aftermarket-cleveland-block/

[Olive Xm 34]

Mines got 520 fwhp with a standard block 30 thou over, I would love to add a 100 shot but Im worried about splitting the bore. If I had a better block I would not hesitate.   

[blownxd393 25]

Ok I will share my knowledge.

 

The strongest would be the simese bore nascar block. Very very rare. They would all be in the USA. Ive never seen one.

 

Next the nascar block none Siamese. If you have one and it has core shift (which is very common in Australia) just fit a sleeve and some grout. I will be fine.

 

A bad tune will kill any block especially with boost.

 

A lot of yank std block I've got have really clean inner bores. Due to. They use inhibitors for cold climates . In the early days hear ppl alway just ran water.

 

My next pic of the bunch would be an xd black block. And as mention check for core shift and rusty corrosion inside of the bores.

It needs to be free of scale and rust to do a proper sonic test and even that won't help with a porous pin hole which is common.

 

Please don't confuse the nascar block with a bubble block or aka pillow. Same pillows on the side, same as the xe nascar but no solid pan rails or bell crank.

 

Fyi. My current blown clevo is a nascar. My high boost clevo iam building now with a dart iron eagle 9.2 and solid chi heads.

My big bore Arrow is due in December...can't wait. See. How it goes as it will have over 800 n/a on scm heads.

[blownxd393 25]

Just to add,

 

As mentioned by Gerg above. the goal is to find a good block, condition wise. pretty hard these days as you will end up boring three blocks until you find a good one. all the others will need sleeves which i personally don't have a problem with even up to  580+hp if done correctly. but its a cost factor (and the correct tune of coarse) 

 

Now the Arrow has had some small minor glitches in past but they are developing,at the end of the day its a much better block to start with and work on than one that is 30+ yo. revised oil system,splayed 4 bolt caps all the way through. provision for dry sump injection for race guys and much better lifter bore configuration which let down the factory blocks 4.100"+ bore  capability for the guys chasing 427+ci

 

In WA you will spend 2k+ to professionally prep a cleveland block for 450+hp and your still stuck with a 30+ yo block. Why would you when an after marked block Arrow is under 3k or a dart shp 9.2 proven quality (windsor clevor style) is around 2k

 

Anyway i could talk Clevelands all day but that's my 2 cents worth as its been fairly quiet in Clevo town of late....

 

Scottly, 450-550hp pump fuel Clevelands are  very easy to build these days with off shelf parts and without using solid roller cams even. maybe start a new thread and we can all have a crack at giving our opinions on how to do it reliably to what ever your budget may be. don't get too strung up on the hp numbers. We just have so many options now days where passionate guys like myself spend all their money they have ever earned on them. Cleveland are just very hard on the back pocket for most but its a Cleveland and its worth it. 

[gerg 10,871]

Even when one feels that the Clevo is the heart and soul of the Aussie Falcon, (as do I) the reality is that the chance of finding a good usable block gets more remote every day. For my Coupe, i may well have to ditch the numbers-matching 0.030" over block that's in it for perhaps a new Dart or even a crate Coyote donk, and that's not a decision to take lightly.

 

Personally I'd like a Dart 8.2 block, 4.125 bores with a 3.25 stroke and CHIs, that would make a short-stroke 347.

[bear351c 10,270]

Just to add,

 

 

....................... its a Cleveland and its worth it. 

 

There, fixed it.

[blownxd393 25]

Sorry if my comments are not welcome bear351.. or have I miss interpreted your cut and paste ?

[Trev Vaa 1,185]

450hp pretty much any block will do, worst case senario get it resleeved.

 

just get the block sonic tested and if its all good you will be fine.

seen early clevo blocks (blue) punch well over 700hp NA.

[bear351c 10,270]

Nah mate, I was agreeing with you. That comment sums it up for me.

 

Love my Clevo.

 

Great info, and some personal advice. Keep it up, mate.

[blownxd393 25]

Nah mate, I was agreeing with you. That comment sums it up for me.

 

Love my Clevo.

 

Great info, and some personal advice. Keep it up, mate.

 

OK Great !  

 

Now ... i just sounded like a (bell end) getting all defensive lol 

[agentkiwi 110]

OK Great !  

 

Now ... i just sounded like a (bell end) getting all defensive lol 

No, you sounded like a bell end by saying bell end...haha, just kidding, thanks for sharing your knowledge!