Power steering box fitting size

[gerg 10,871]

Anyone know what size/type the pressure port takes on top of the steering box? It looks like a 3/4 thread on an SAE flare and 3/8" tube, but need to confirm.

 

Cheers

[XES 859]

I think from memory its actually 11/16 but cant remember the pitch of the thread. I can find out tomorrow cos we sell the nuts for the tube at work if you want. And yeah its 3/8 tube with a 45 degree flare. Gaz might know seeing as he used to do a lot with them.

[gerg 10,871]

Thanks mate no rush, just dicking around with some ideas for making up some lines. Trying to go to JIC (AN) each end to make it easy to make up hose/pipe ends.

[XES 859]

Yeah it does make it easier using -6 fittings. All the power steering hoses I remake at work end up with it in them to make life easier. I think I might have them adapters at work. I'll have a look.

[gerg 10,871]

Thinking of going with a 16mm banjo to -6 JIC at the pump end. Saves looking around for something to adapt that funny o-ring fitting that fits nothing else but the Saginaw pumps.

[XES 859]

You can get that o ring fitting to -6. I've got one in mine. I use them all the time. Heaps of cars use that style. Its called a bump tube.

[gerg 10,871]

Any particular place you can get them from in Aus? Are they available in 90 deg?

[ando76 4,354]

enzed sells those adapters - o ring to JIC - and then I just put a 90 onto them - but I run the lines up the shock tower - over the firewall and back down to the pump.  Keeps the lines away from the heat and gives you more volume.  Not real pretty but it works. 

 

On the pressure line Allan just silver soldered a fitting onto the 3/8 hard line coming out of the box.  worked a treat and has never leaked. 

[XES 859]

Correct Ando. That's where I work.

[XES 859]

 

These are the adapters we have at work. The silver one is the 16mm x 1.5 bump tube adapter. The other is 11/16 x 18. Its a bump tube adapter too but I turn the bump tube bit off and put a 45 degree seat on where that was. It works a treat. But like ando said you can make an adapter out of the existing tube one. One thing to remember with power steering hoses is that the steel pipe work acts as a cooler for the system. When you run all hose you loose that bit a cooling you get.

[gerg 10,871]

Hey thanks heaps for the pic. The pump one would be easy but unfortunately the nut on the box end I dont have.

 

So that bottom one can be a -7 JIC or UN-O to -6 JIC nipple with the male taper machined to a 45 female? I can do that easily but I might have to b-b-b-buy (hate saying that word) the M16/JIC pump end one.

 

I understand the cooling effect of having steel line, that's why i'm going flexible from the pump to maybe under the engine then hard line along the x-member then up over the tower just like you said Ando. We have JIC tubeweld nuts and nipples to suit. I had a thought of using synflex for the hose section but i've seen that stuff blister in high heat conditions. At work we have both synflex and screw-on tails and hose for both. Whaddya reckon?

 

Really appreciate you all sharing this knowledge by the way

[XES 859]

Hey thanks heaps for the pic. The pump one would be easy but unfortunately the nut on the box end I dont have.

 

 

So that bottom one can be a -7 JIC or UN-O to -6 JIC nipple with the male taper machined to a 45 female? I can do that easily but I might have to b-b-b-buy (hate saying that word) the M16/JIC pump end one.

 

 

I understand the cooling effect of having steel line, that's why i'm going flexible from the pump to maybe under the engine then hard line along the x-member then up over the tower just like you said Ando. We have JIC tubeweld nuts and nipples to suit. I had a thought of using synflex for the hose section but i've seen that stuff blister in high heat conditions. At work we have both synflex and screw-on tails and hose for both. Whaddya reckon?

 

 

Really appreciate you all sharing this knowledge by the way

 

As long as the thread is 11/16 x 18 it will be all good as long as you have the seat on it to seal on the cone.

 

I wouldn't use synflex hose because of the heat. The hose we use is a gates hose made for power steering. PS-188 us the part number and you need to use the right ferrules on it. The part no for them is SNXB-6. Only thing is wuth this stuff you need to crimp it on.

 

I wouldn't use a hose with a wire braid in it either as for some reason they can be noisy. I've seen it in a few cars. It'll do the job but for me its not ideal.

 

I don't mind sharing what I know with people to help them out. Gotta give something back seeing as how I learn so much from everyone else. Its what I do for work so sharing your own knowledge on something you do for a living can benefit all.

[gerg 10,871]

I think from memory its actually 11/16 but cant remember the pitch of the thread. I can find out tomorrow cos we sell the nuts for the tube at work if you want. And yeah its 3/8 tube with a 45 degree flare. Gaz might know seeing as he used to do a lot with them.

Yep that's spot-on, thanks for that. It's actually 11/16" x18 SAE inverted taper, and that thread is exclusive to that size fitting, nothing else uses it. Just so happens that i found an adaptor that goes to -7 JIC which i also have a 3/8" synflex crimp tail for. I'm going with synflex so i can go around corners a bit tighter and also because it might be quieter. I'll just run it away from the heat over the tower like Ando reckons. We have the crimper here at work, so all i need now is the 16mm to 3/8" (-6) JIC.

[ando76 4,354]

Yeah what you lose in heat dispersion you pick up in extra fluid is my theory.  Allan made my pressure hose with wire braid and it would be noisy in a road car application but in the race car there is so much other stuff going on you never notice it. 

 

I used ortack with the low pressure return.  I think the problem with the factory steel lines is that they pass so close to the sump, which is also radiating heat and the extractors (on a 6 cylinder) as well that is loses any advantage.  I think the only reason the factory ran it that way was the cost benefit of shorter lines. 

 

Over the tower for me - doesn't look pretty but hey if it works....

[xm-221 1,803]

think the problem with the factory steel lines is that they pass so close to the sump, which is also radiating heat and the extractors (on a 6 cylinder) as well that is loses any advantage. I think the only reason the factory ran it that way was the cost benefit of shorter lines.

Would heat soak only make a difference if you were stationary for an extended length of time?

 

I would have thought the air flow dragging the heat away from the sump and extractors would mean that heat soak would be minimal in such an application. Or am I not seeing the bigger picture here?

[gerg 10,871]

I think ando's experience is with race cars that are working the steering really hard, engine and pump spinning at 11/10ths, lines getting covered in dirt/mud and copping hot radiator air all the time. That's why he runs them where he does.

 

On a street car cruising at 2000 rpm it's not a problem to run them along the cross member, and ando's right about cost, it's to make production easy by slotting in the PS box and lines before the engine goes in. Then once that's in, the pump simply gets connected up to the flexy ends of the lines and all done.