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Suitable stall speed 250 xflow.

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Hi guys,

 

Thinking of going c4 with a stall behind my 250 but unsure as to how to go about stall speed. I understand that it all depends on setup and engine characteristics such as torque etc. The car is a 'weekender' so no need to worry about driveability and economy too much!

I can provide specs/dyno readings if that helps?

Any tips are much appreciated :).
Thanks in advance!

 

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Black art hey, Ok

I don't run a so called suited stall in anything I own bar 1 car, they still work

I have a built convertor in the ghia and ill tell you witch one is shit? its the one in the ghia. total rubbish arr hell the whole trans is

Not trying to talk anyone out of a good stall but I still think a stall is a stall as long as it not to small



 

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LOL Dave Dave Dave :) There is no way that a off the shelf convertor will work exactly like the owner wants it too in any case other than a fluke.For starters old mate here can fit a Windsor or xflow unit to his car that could be both stated to the same RPM stall but they will both operate differently.They are a very complex thing to get right (ask Mossy) for a purpose and guessing is not the way to go in a go fast car IMO. 

 

Most people don't even know how to truley test or what the stall speeds mean which is more reason to get a professional to do the job for you.Knowing a small amount about em I needed mine to be looser down low to allow to flare to my predicated stall speed.Rang Jase gave him all the details and sent the unit to him to be re worked.It was set up for a old combo first off.First drive in the car and get the car to 60kph stand on it hard and the convertor went to 5400 where we wanted it to go.No way a eBay B&M Windsor unit would have done that for me.

 

Thats why they need to be job specific IMO,but if I had 1 built that didn't work how I wanted I'd take it back for a re-work to correct it.I'll see how mine launches @ Winton this weekend with the 26" street slicks and all that RPM.Not expecting wheels stands but it should hop out of the hole OK.Hard to tell on the street cos it frys tyres now...well it won't anymore cos it frys head gaskets too :)  

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I get where both arguments are coming from and think they are both correct.

Sly your cars setup requires a custom unit because you have an completely custom setup. And agree that just because a convertor is made for another application and it happens to fit a crossflow doesnt mean it will work.

But I also agree with pro in that most applications will be fine with an off the shelf unit if it suit the working range of the car. Most people will not notice if the convertor is not perfect for there car so long as its close. All comes down to cost vs benifit imho.

But having said that you still need to know which off the shelf convertor to get so unless you know someone that has experience with your engine setup ( I know there has to be a forum somewhere full of crossflow tragics ;-) ) or speak to someone that works with convertors that will understand your needs.

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the way I understand it is ,you need to work out cam then final drive

 

1 cam profile ,when it comes onto cam.

2 diff ratio,

so if you drive around with a 3000 rpm stally ,cam comes on hard at 2800 then this is good ,

 

but if your in top on the highway and you cruise at 100k ,and the motor is showing say 2500 in top then you will fry the stally as it is contantly allowing slip,

 

so if you run say a 40/80 cam with 3.5 gears then 100k n hour should be around 3200rpm, no problems,

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