Jump to content
Clevo120Y

Budget upgrades for the DIY

Recommended Posts

I'm all for giving it a crack. Have to figure out a way to block it temporarily though. Will it mess with the engine running temp either way?

 

What's the theory behind it? Just that the intake stays colder or something?

 

Edit: That would make sense when I think about it, if the coolant flows out of the block hot and into the manifold...

 

Just going from memory...

 

The hose from the block to the front of the manifold can just come off and get blocked up...

 

The hose connecting to the T piece from the rear of the manifold I can just bypass by swapping the T piece with a regular connector.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you want proper setups or is dodgey looking ok. I made a CAI for my xe by using the intake tube from an xf that goes around the battery. Placed the mouth down by the radiator protected by the bumper from stuff flying in. Then joined to the carby aircleaner snout. Looks very dodgey but was solid, cant say I felt any different like I did when I removed the rubber seal on the aircleaner lid.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

6-3-1 are supposed to be good for low down torque

6-2-1 good for higher in the rev range

 

I scored a set of 6-3-1 from U-Pullit a few weeks ago and never seen a set before so did some research....

 

Have yet to fit them but on my to do list now that the Fairlane is registered again.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats the info I was after. Now do I want to increase the already good low down torque or try to make it rev up high? Going to fit a 350 and redline manifold so maybe the 6-2-1 would compliment those.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depends on what wether its a stock 6 or cammed and made to rev....

 

I want to help that 2.77 rear end get some pull down low......

Although since I put the new wheels and tyres on is seems happier to loose traction..... go figure

 

All I have been doing is running it once a week til the engine warms up while it was unregoed

and it seems to have thanked me with running very well now.... Driving it to work the other night

was heaps of fun in the rain hehe, Nothing like a bit of sideways action on takeoff.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats the info I was after. Now do I want to increase the already good low down torque or try to make it rev up high? Going to fit a 350 and redline manifold so maybe the 6-2-1 would compliment those.

Do it! Then sell me the 6-3-1 set - the rustier the better. :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At the moment its just a stock xd 4 speed. I have no idea what diff gears, either 2.77 or 2.92. I reckon you saw it when you bought the suspension off me.

 

Nath those Tri Y ones would be perfect for you. They are rusty and need a flange put on the bottom.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Got two sets of extractors here. One set is 6-3-1 other is 6-2-1. Tri Y maybe pacemaker but unsure, other set Motovator. Which set should I use?

 

If the pacies are the 6-3-1s, double win. I'd go 6-3-1 any day. Motivators were a cheap line of Genies i believe. I've not liked Genies for their thin walls. Seen them burn out within a few years, but pacies are much thicker and will last over ten years if you don't wrap them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just the Bloke I wanted to hear from. Will use the 6-3-1 set. I suspect they are paccies but I'm not sure. They look old and need a clean up and a tidy up on the end but that's all part of the fun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This mod was inspired by Stumper's thread on Street Stock Speedway and the carby mods he's done. When i had my 4011 Holley apart the other day, I noticed that the barrels had some pretty rough casting marks and misalignment between the top and bottom halves of the Venturi.4a7c6e77090e70433ef465938cad3eef.jpg

1341c3e3d8eba731f4795c9b55963115.jpg368e8fb84b0110b7d00de6a4745a2c68.jpg

Might not show there but it's like they took the safe approach with their mouldings and made the top half slightly narrower than the bottom (so there's no chance of any ledge jutting out) with a distinct inward ridge all round. I looked at the finish and all i could see was turbulence and restriction, yet on my little 302 it probably wouldn't make any difference, or so i thought. Regardless, i just couldn't help myself...

 

Anyway about 10 min with my little Dremel and this is the result:

8f2fe93fd5cfb404888a5d04f267e16b.jpg

 

So i slapped it all back together and did notice a smoother transfer to main circuit but was a little doughy up top compared to before. I figured that more air was flowing around the booster instead of through it, so less fuel was being pulled out and needed more jet to compensate... So i thought (again). Chucked in some 70s up from 67s and it went worse!

 

Yesterday i chucked in some 64s and was slightly better, so today i thought I'd go way down to 61s and blow me down, it's going pretty good! Maybe the extra flow is giving more velocity and more booster signal, so it draws fuel harder. Hard to tell what's the go in this hot humid weather but it's fine for now.

 

What I'm trying to say is that messing with fiddly things like carbies can be trouble and can give you the opposite result to what you expect, but if you're keen to learn then this is the only way.

 

And thanks Stumper for showing what can be done with a bit of man-shed engineering

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No worries Gerg, I have one word for you that explains the down size in fuel jet, EFFICIENCY!! Your carb is now more efficient and your engine requires less fuel to make the same power, the booster signal will be cleaner etc etc. this is why when people say that if you have more airflow you have to add more fuel but it isn't always the case, an efficient motor will use less fuel for more power and that's in the forefront of my mind when I do my little experiments.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

An optimised engine will always use less fuel, make more power and torque and run cleaner. Factory setup is always on the very safe side regardless of what you buy as even mass produced performance parts have to be made for the mass market which includes simple holden owners.

Thom I would pick the middle collector.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
No worries Gerg, I have one word for you that explains the down size in fuel jet, EFFICIENCY!! Your carb is now more efficient and your engine requires less fuel to make the same power, the booster signal will be cleaner etc etc. this is why when people say that if you have more airflow you have to add more fuel but it isn't always the case, an efficient motor will use less fuel for more power and that's in the forefront of my mind when I do my little experiments.

 

Good explanation Stumper, I'm pretty stoked too! Just hoping this newfound efficiency shows at the petrol pump... It's been a shocker lately: about 20l/100km

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×