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mcfly94

250-300hp Crossflow

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I just realised your parts shopping list is from XRGLEN's thread....... my bad.

 

I spose you could fit that cam, and see what happens.

 

Maybe up the stall speed of the converter, to when the cam comes in.

And make the exhaust a bit more restrictive.

yeah check post above..and would a crow 14770 be good?

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I used the 14770. Because im retarded i had it 7º advanced but it made 160RWHP by 4000rpm and 335nm torque. (effort in 4th with 2.92 ratio diff) I liked the cam till i wiped the lobes off it and expected it would have gone alot better if i had it zeroed in.

 

Don't make me slap you, get some bloody roller rockers!

Get 110lb-125lb valve springs.

You gonna have the motor apart anyway so get the rotating assy balanced with flywheel and new front balancer you should see 5500rpm which will keep you happy.

if only revving to 5500 inductive system will be good enough but slap a HEC Bosch coil on there. Like the hec 715 or hec 723.

Keep your 2.5" zorst.

should be able to do everything for under 2k, especially if your going carby.

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OK your not gunna listen for what ever reason but I'll tell you anyway,actually pretend Im xrglenn for a while if it helps.

 

You can fit and use all this shit before you even do the engine so,buy a MSD Street fire Ignition for $179,get a TFI dizzy,and a good coil or a basic Bosch unit.That ignition system will now power any future combo you come up with.Ask Clint how well his TFI MSD combo worked out for him amongst others.Simple basic and the BEST thing you could do for any single combo you come up with as it will allow you make HP not limit HP like a electronic dizzy will.Why do I say this...because I have done it and have the results from all bar a crank trigger ignition and for the money I have to ask why not do it as all you will do is miss out on FREE HP.

 

Use no less than a 2.5 exhaust and get the collectors modified to enhance flow/scavenging.This again is totally free hp like the ignition and can be done to any engine in any state of tune at any time.

 

Buy a Romac or Powerbond balancer,I would and do use a custom Powerbond unit but as Glenn likes Romac use one of them if you wish.Again you can use this component on any engine at all at any time and it is FREE HP.

 

Next up buy and fit a DC electric water pump as it's FREE HP.I hope your getting the idea here by now.

 

After this is all fitted tested and made to work how you like start buying engine parts every week as needed.Buy 125lb dual springs,new retainers,locks to suit your stock valve gear will do for now.Any bigger and your into single groove territory.A gasket set to suit the intended rebuild,a camshaft and lifter kit after you consult with Camtech,sorry Crow in your case and do speak to them via the ph not just purchase something cheap off eBay FFS.I would advise you to ring Camtech and speak to Jim Tamborello aswell as they WILL help you.A set of bolt on roller rockers even 2nd hand of eBay if your that concerend about spending money on em will help.Scorpion do not make bolt adjustable's as I have a set on my ute engine and they need the head machined and a set of studs fitted that are just not needed here ATM.That said you don't need adjustable units here either,just roller rockers will free up HP aswell.

 

Then purchase your inlet,I cannot suggest a 4 barrel enough but if you want more throttle response and LESS HP and torque go for a 2 barrel manifold and carb combo.

 

If you buy it all as you go it will spread the $$$ out and allow you to spend a little more where it is needed.A car is a combination of parts so it will need a convertor and a set of gears to suit aswell so purchase with this in mind the whole time.

 

Thats me...

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Yeah i will add that whilst i am using crow gear atm, i will not be with my new setup. They are great for off the shelf matched stuff but when ive spoken to them about chopping and changing to wat suits me they have been useless whereas when i have spoken to camtech they def seem to be on the ball.

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Forget about HP for a daily.

 

I'd go for bulk torque, with say 150hp.

It'll jump off the line, and feel pretty damn fast, without seeming like it's going to drop it's guts.

 

Unless you balance the rotating assembly/EF crank etc,

a 4.1ltr crossflow will not reliably tolerate anything more than about 4250rpm.

your kidding right? im driving my mates ute around at the moment i reved that to 5500 5 times today its a stock bottomend with a cam and carby LOL 4250 id rev a 500.000km stocker that hard hoping to kill it but i bet it would not die

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Also remember, that a crossy won't like a large diameter freeflowing exhaust system either.

 

If you've got no backpressure, you'll lose alot of lowdown torque.

 

thats also rubbish have you got a good 250? not trying to be a arse but thats just worng

 

daves XF had a 3inch system on a next to stock engine and it still went good not loss of TQs even in the lower revs

 

the bigger the engine the bigger the system you want a spot on size for a stock engine is 2 1/2 inch that a stock engine nothign done at all

 

look at it like this the new crapodores run twin 2 1/2 inch systems on there stock v6s why do you think that is?

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They rev?

an exhaust too large will cause a "higher" back pressure at low airflow rates then one sized for the correct rpm rang and has good velocity. on a crossy if you wanna make power at 6k then you'll need a big exhaust. If you want your power at 2k, not so much.

Physically testing your exhaust systems is easy and does not require a dyno. you can use a manometer to measure pressure drops at different points. Im interested in trying it ou oneday when im old and decrepit with too much time XP

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look at it like this the new crapodores run twin 2 1/2 inch systems on there stock v6s why do you think that is?

 

The commodores are all........ look at me, I like to rev, but I have no torque.......

 

Speaking from everyday experience, even a basic modded EFI 5ltr holden V8 lack's lowdown torque.

I get sick of constantly having to force a kickdown, cause there's no accelleration happening.

But then you get too much, so you end up constantly hunting.

 

Even my sisters V6 Mazda 929 yakuza staff car is the same.

 

 

Frankly I prefer driving my standard XF/XG/XH 6cyl's so much more.

They hate high revs, (over 4500 for the OHC's) but the torque is instant, and on tap at any time, in any gear.

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your kidding right? im driving my mates ute around at the moment i reved that to 5500 5 times today its a stock bottomend with a cam and carby LOL 4250 id rev a 500.000km stocker that hard hoping to kill it but i bet it would not die

 

Believe me, you can feel them shaking themselves to pieces, anything more than about 4000rpm.

Unless it's been modded, max torque is over at 3000rpm.

 

I just think of the early GT exhausts - twin 2.25, dropping down to 2' for the tail pipes.

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I just think of the early GT exhausts - twin 2.25, dropping down to 2' for the tail pipes.

A GT is a V8, therefore if it has a twin pipe system then realistically it's only 4cyl per pipe, rather than 6 or 8.

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The commodores are all........ look at me, I like to rev, but I have no torque.......

 

Speaking from everyday experience, even a basic modded EFI 5ltr holden V8 lack's lowdown torque.

I get sick of constantly having to force a kickdown, cause there's no accelleration happening.

But then you get too much, so you end up constantly hunting.

 

Even my sisters V6 Mazda 929 yakuza staff car is the same.

 

 

Frankly I prefer driving my standard XF/XG/XH 6cyl's so much more.

They hate high revs, (over 4500 for the OHC's) but the torque is instant, and on tap at any time, in any gear.

put your XF or XH next to a stock v6 commondore and watch what happens, you will get blown and by a car thats 2 ton not a 1400kg ute they dont rev around town either torque moves a car and a new VE will kick a XH any time so there making the tqs to match there revs

 

you would be the first to say 5litres dont have any torque to my Vn ss many moons ago would rape the tyres easy and you did not even have to rev it. they make much better TQs then a injected 5litre falcon but

 

from what i can gather your falcons just pull there gearing much better then the holdens do there longer geared and althow it would not be much im sure you could feel it if your in the worng gear

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Believe me, you can feel them shaking themselves to pieces, anything more than about 4000rpm.

Unless it's been modded, max torque is over at 3000rpm.

 

I just think of the early GT exhausts - twin 2.25, dropping down to 2' for the tail pipes.

so a 4 inch + exhaust on a what was one of fords most basic engines that ran good numbers but nothing realy cause my old $500 engine in my corty ran 14.2 in a 2 gear blaze of wheel spin.

 

I must be doing it worng my ute runs a twin 3inch system and would rip a old gt to shreads but to think it felt all choked up with a small system on it  and still makes big real good torque down low so good it runs a 3.5 gears but it  should run 3.9 4.11s

 

im making a new 3inch system for a car soon i should do a back to back test i bet it will make the same TQs if not more then it had 

 

 

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I personally think it comes down to header design rather than the exhaust size, no restriction in the exhaust is always going to be better it just comes down to noise with a larger system. The header and it's ability to scavenge properly makes the power and torque, the idea of needing back pressure is wrong in my opinion, having the greatest exhaust velocity without restriction in the header is what you want.

Cheers

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^^^^^^theres somone that knows what there talking about its not the exhaust its the pipes that go into them. if you have good pipes it would work even if there was no exhaust

whats your name on the other forum mate? if your from there im having a hard time remembering whos who now

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OK your not gunna listen for what ever reason but I'll tell you anyway,actually pretend Im xrglenn for a while if it helps.

 

You can fit and use all this shit before you even do the engine so,buy a MSD Street fire Ignition for $179,get a TFI dizzy,and a good coil or a basic Bosch unit.That ignition system will now power any future combo you come up with.Ask Clint how well his TFI MSD combo worked out for him amongst others.Simple basic and the BEST thing you could do for any single combo you come up with as it will allow you make HP not limit HP like a electronic dizzy will.Why do I say this...because I have done it and have the results from all bar a crank trigger ignition and for the money I have to ask why not do it as all you will do is miss out on FREE HP.

 

Use no less than a 2.5 exhaust and get the collectors modified to enhance flow/scavenging.This again is totally free hp like the ignition and can be done to any engine in any state of tune at any time.

 

Buy a Romac or Powerbond balancer,I would and do use a custom Powerbond unit but as Glenn likes Romac use one of them if you wish.Again you can use this component on any engine at all at any time and it is FREE HP.

 

Next up buy and fit a DC electric water pump as it's FREE HP.I hope your getting the idea here by now.

 

After this is all fitted tested and made to work how you like start buying engine parts every week as needed.Buy 125lb dual springs,new retainers,locks to suit your stock valve gear will do for now.Any bigger and your into single groove territory.A gasket set to suit the intended rebuild,a camshaft and lifter kit after you consult with Camtech,sorry Crow in your case and do speak to them via the ph not just purchase something cheap off eBay FFS.I would advise you to ring Camtech and speak to Jim Tamborello aswell as they WILL help you.A set of bolt on roller rockers even 2nd hand of eBay if your that concerend about spending money on em will help.Scorpion do not make bolt adjustable's as I have a set on my ute engine and they need the head machined and a set of studs fitted that are just not needed here ATM.That said you don't need adjustable units here either,just roller rockers will free up HP aswell.

 

Then purchase your inlet,I cannot suggest a 4 barrel enough but if you want more throttle response and LESS HP and torque go for a 2 barrel manifold and carb combo.

 

If you buy it all as you go it will spread the $$$ out and allow you to spend a little more where it is needed.A car is a combination of parts so it will need a convertor and a set of gears to suit aswell so purchase with this in mind the whole time.

 

Thats me...

just on this sly, should ever consider working the bottom end? whats the most rpm i can get out of it reliably (obvisouly only to limit of the cam)

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Well it doesnt say guest or on holiday yet hahaha and glad you cleared that up cause a certain member on here pestered me cause he thought you were another member lmao

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