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Trev Vaa

The GO-TO cleveland parts thread

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this is the GO-TO thread for everyday cleveland parts

will add to this as time goes on, i need to go through the books at work to get current numbers

 

Spark Plugs

IRON HEADS  NGK: BP5FS (hot plug), BP6FS (standard temp plug), BP7FS (cold plug, gas & some performance applications)

Gap: 0.8mm

ngk-bpr4fs_2.jpg

 

Ignition Coil:

Points: SU12R, GT40R, GT40RT

Electronic Ignition: Bosch MEC723A

GT40R.jpgIGC-303.tag.1.jpg?ts=1391487539

 

high flow Thermostat (still looking for restrictor plate can only find genuine atm):

Dayco DT66A:

DT66A_zps9885d965.jpg

 

standard thermostat (not recommended)

Dayco DT14B-BP

 

Thermostat Gasket:

Dayco DTG15

 

Genuine Restrictor Plate (can still get new from O/S):

1392761151_p.jpg

 

Brass Heater Hose Fitting:

Killkenny Castings: 2 options, KC116 KC117

20140622_131811_zpsd5c21a1c.jpg

20140622_131818_zpscb0d29a3.jpg

 

Oil Filter:

Ryco Z9 or Z89A (shorter version of the Z9)

$(KGrHqFHJDUFC(jdbD)WBQnGsL26tQ~~60_35.J

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nice work trev

 

spark plug recomendation of heat ratings will vary depending on year of motor and emmissions/compression etc, personally like the Autolite part number: 24  equivilant to bp6fs and cheaper too, alot of my customers swear by them

coil numbers will vary depending on model too, points or electronic etc, personal preferance is an MSD blaster 2 for electronic ignition

double check your dayco thermostat, dayco changed there stock in the box from flowkooler 333-180 (cleveland) to 330-180 (windsor) a while back, i got them to change it back but plenty of wrong stock still floating around wharehouses, these part numbers are on the side of the actual thermostat, or you can tell because the 333-180 has the little flange on the bottom, 3 years ago these were 80 bucks from repco, 30 bucks from rare spares and 20 bucks from vpw (packaged under milodin brand) so shop around

water bypass ring can be bought from the detomaso pantera forums new

for those of you who like to drag the knhp3001 is the k&n oil filter that matches z9 spec, they can be spannered on and off and have provision for lock wiring as per drag strip rules etc

 

 

Trev if your ever keen on compiling a big proper list with me one day id be happy to edit/create a thread one day that goes full in depth

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Anyone know what it should cost to get a set of 2Vs done up with hardened seats, full guides and press-on seals?

 

Hoping to re-use valves if possible. Stock-ish application.

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I had mine done and cost $1500. But they were ported and polished and new springs and valves as well. So it should come in a lot cheaper than that.

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Anyone ever bent stock pushrods? I noticed when putting my manifold back on, #7 inlet had a nice kink in it. I know they're unsuitable for any performance application but mine is mostly stock with a baby cam in it (206/214 @ 0.050", bit over 0.5" lift). I have the MSD soft-limited to 5500 rpm.

 

I just massaged the pushrod straight again with a hammer handle. All the others looked straight (well the ones that I could turn).

 

Are clevo pushrods really that crap?

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Anyone ever bent stock pushrods? I noticed when putting my manifold back on, #7 inlet had a nice kink in it. I know they're unsuitable for any performance application but mine is mostly stock with a baby cam in it (206/214 @ 0.050", bit over 0.5" lift). I have the MSD soft-limited to 5500 rpm.

 

I just massaged the pushrod straight again with a hammer handle. All the others looked straight (well the ones that I could turn).

 

Are clevo pushrods really that crap?

i wouldnt use any stock valvetrain past 3500rpm lol

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Yeah thought that much...

 

This arvo I was putting my 5 yo son in the car while it was running and he decided to jump in the driver's seat and rev the snot out if it when it was still stone-cold. I heard it either hit the limiter or float the valves, one or the other. Hope there aren't any more friggin bent pushrods!

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Yeah thought that much...

 

This arvo I was putting my 5 yo son in the car while it was running and he decided to jump in the driver's seat and rev the snot out if it when it was still stone-cold. I heard it either hit the limiter or float the valves, one or the other. Hope there aren't any more friggin bent pushrods!

I did something similar to dads XD when I was a similar age.

I gave the clevo a massive rev & snapped the timing chain!

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Anyone installed beehive springs on a clevo head? The benefits seem to outweigh the initial higher cost including longevity (ie: lower seat pressure for given rpm capability, no need for damper springs, etc)

 

 

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Anyone installed beehive springs on a clevo head? The benefits seem to outweigh the initial higher cost including (ie: lower seat pressure for given rpm capability, no need for damper springs, etc)

My old man used to have them on the 351 (comp cams ones) that was in his a model, they were quite good wouldn't recommend using them on a solid roller or solid flat tappet but they were on the car for a couple of years and they went on to one of dad's mates cars afterwards still going today so reliability is there they had decent valve control to about 6500 from memory valvetrain was quieter with them too

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My old man used to have them on the 351 (comp cams ones) that was in his a model, they were quite good wouldn't recommend using them on a solid roller or solid flat tappet but they were on the car for a couple of years and they went on to one of dad's mates cars afterwards still going today so reliability is there they had decent valve control to about 6500 from memory valvetrain was quieter with them too


Thanks Thom yeah mine won't see more than 6000 max, don't want to lose my legs from a flywheel popping lol. Only going to be a mild, hyd flat tappet cam either the one I have now or a couple of steps up to one with 0.507" lift, sticking with steel rockers for now.

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Hi folks, anyone used Speed-Pro pushrods on their build? Any discernible difference from the shitty stock ones that are made from licorice? They're the best price USA made ones i can find, seem like good value for about 80 bucks from Pavtek, length 8.383". Next step up is a set of Manleys for about $160, which are 8.375". Both are around the size I need.


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speed pro are ok,the 8.383 is a std usa length but our clevos here had pushrods that are a bit longer.in std form.8.408 was our std pushrod.mellings make some good cheapies,but manley or trend at a bit more coin would be the go a very good product.

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speed pro are ok,the 8.383 is a std usa length but our clevos here had pushrods that are a bit longer.in std form.8.408 was our std pushrod.mellings make some good cheapies,but manley or trend at a bit more coin would be the go a very good product.
Cheers yeah plenty of cheap 8.408s around, but i got my heads shaved 0.025" and valves/seats re-cut (tips sit higher), block probably another 0.005 or 0.010 when it was done first time so in total have to go at least 0.030" shorter.

Made a pushrod checker out of said factory licorice pushrod (thread soon in DIY) so will see what length I actually need (best to do homework first). Seat pressure is 125, up around 300 on the nose so $2 Sealed Power stockies won't cut it.

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i have used the crow shim pack many times,comes in 30 and sixty thou,about 30 bucks,i always used to freak out about hyd set up but you can put a fair bit of preload on those lifters without trouble,anywhere from 020 to sixty thou is ballpark figure,just get zero lash on tdc and 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn is fine with no more than 1 full turn of the rocker bolt,use the crow shim pack to get ur preload right and just stick with std length.

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i have used the crow shim pack many times,comes in 30 and sixty thou,about 30 bucks,i always used to freak out about hyd set up but you can put a fair bit of preload on those lifters without trouble,anywhere from 020 to sixty thou is ballpark figure,just get zero lash on tdc and 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn is fine with no more than 1 full turn of the rocker bolt,use the crow shim pack to get ur preload right and just stick with std length.
Thanks i have both my std 8.408 ones and my pushrod checker set at 8.383 and will see which of the two lengths gives the more preferable preload. Shims sound like a nice easy fix but i'm running stock rockers for now and don't want to hurt the geometry too much (ie wear my new valve guides, etc). Looking at bolt-on rollers a bit down the track.

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