Trev Vaa 1,185 Posted June 23, 2014 this is the GO-TO thread for everyday cleveland parts will add to this as time goes on, i need to go through the books at work to get current numbers Spark Plugs IRON HEADS NGK: BP5FS (hot plug), BP6FS (standard temp plug), BP7FS (cold plug, gas & some performance applications) Gap: 0.8mm Ignition Coil: Points: SU12R, GT40R, GT40RT Electronic Ignition: Bosch MEC723A high flow Thermostat (still looking for restrictor plate can only find genuine atm): Dayco DT66A: standard thermostat (not recommended) Dayco DT14B-BP Thermostat Gasket: Dayco DTG15 Genuine Restrictor Plate (can still get new from O/S): Brass Heater Hose Fitting: Killkenny Castings: 2 options, KC116 KC117 Oil Filter: Ryco Z9 or Z89A (shorter version of the Z9) 4 robbie, scottly, gerg and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,260 Posted June 23, 2014 Sweet stuff, mate. If you can't find an orifice plate, cut the guts out of an old thermostat, and use that as a temporary fix. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hendrixhc 10,918 Posted June 23, 2014 Nice work Trev! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigCav 464 Posted June 23, 2014 nice work trev spark plug recomendation of heat ratings will vary depending on year of motor and emmissions/compression etc, personally like the Autolite part number: 24 equivilant to bp6fs and cheaper too, alot of my customers swear by them coil numbers will vary depending on model too, points or electronic etc, personal preferance is an MSD blaster 2 for electronic ignition double check your dayco thermostat, dayco changed there stock in the box from flowkooler 333-180 (cleveland) to 330-180 (windsor) a while back, i got them to change it back but plenty of wrong stock still floating around wharehouses, these part numbers are on the side of the actual thermostat, or you can tell because the 333-180 has the little flange on the bottom, 3 years ago these were 80 bucks from repco, 30 bucks from rare spares and 20 bucks from vpw (packaged under milodin brand) so shop around water bypass ring can be bought from the detomaso pantera forums new for those of you who like to drag the knhp3001 is the k&n oil filter that matches z9 spec, they can be spannered on and off and have provision for lock wiring as per drag strip rules etc Trev if your ever keen on compiling a big proper list with me one day id be happy to edit/create a thread one day that goes full in depth 1 Trev Vaa reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trev Vaa 1,185 Posted June 23, 2014 cav we'll organise it, speak to you on FB & via email. be in contact with you soon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted July 1, 2014 Go to parts, msd 6530! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted November 25, 2014 Anyone know what it should cost to get a set of 2Vs done up with hardened seats, full guides and press-on seals? Hoping to re-use valves if possible. Stock-ish application. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hendrixhc 10,918 Posted November 25, 2014 I had mine done and cost $1500. But they were ported and polished and new springs and valves as well. So it should come in a lot cheaper than that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigCav 464 Posted November 25, 2014 I had my 2v rebuilt stock with new valves for 650 about 5 years ago Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted November 26, 2014 Cheers guys I'll put that in the bank for later Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted October 31, 2015 Anyone ever bent stock pushrods? I noticed when putting my manifold back on, #7 inlet had a nice kink in it. I know they're unsuitable for any performance application but mine is mostly stock with a baby cam in it (206/214 @ 0.050", bit over 0.5" lift). I have the MSD soft-limited to 5500 rpm. I just massaged the pushrod straight again with a hammer handle. All the others looked straight (well the ones that I could turn). Are clevo pushrods really that crap? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted November 8, 2015 Anyone ever bent stock pushrods? I noticed when putting my manifold back on, #7 inlet had a nice kink in it. I know they're unsuitable for any performance application but mine is mostly stock with a baby cam in it (206/214 @ 0.050", bit over 0.5" lift). I have the MSD soft-limited to 5500 rpm. I just massaged the pushrod straight again with a hammer handle. All the others looked straight (well the ones that I could turn). Are clevo pushrods really that crap? i wouldnt use any stock valvetrain past 3500rpm lol 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted November 8, 2015 Yeah thought that much... This arvo I was putting my 5 yo son in the car while it was running and he decided to jump in the driver's seat and rev the snot out if it when it was still stone-cold. I heard it either hit the limiter or float the valves, one or the other. Hope there aren't any more friggin bent pushrods! 2 Kiwi-E and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu5766 394 Posted November 8, 2015 Yeah thought that much... This arvo I was putting my 5 yo son in the car while it was running and he decided to jump in the driver's seat and rev the snot out if it when it was still stone-cold. I heard it either hit the limiter or float the valves, one or the other. Hope there aren't any more friggin bent pushrods! I did something similar to dads XD when I was a similar age.I gave the clevo a massive rev & snapped the timing chain! 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted March 31, 2017 Anyone installed beehive springs on a clevo head? The benefits seem to outweigh the initial higher cost including longevity (ie: lower seat pressure for given rpm capability, no need for damper springs, etc) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,639 Posted March 31, 2017 Anyone installed beehive springs on a clevo head? The benefits seem to outweigh the initial higher cost including (ie: lower seat pressure for given rpm capability, no need for damper springs, etc) My old man used to have them on the 351 (comp cams ones) that was in his a model, they were quite good wouldn't recommend using them on a solid roller or solid flat tappet but they were on the car for a couple of years and they went on to one of dad's mates cars afterwards still going today so reliability is there they had decent valve control to about 6500 from memory valvetrain was quieter with them too 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted March 31, 2017 My old man used to have them on the 351 (comp cams ones) that was in his a model, they were quite good wouldn't recommend using them on a solid roller or solid flat tappet but they were on the car for a couple of years and they went on to one of dad's mates cars afterwards still going today so reliability is there they had decent valve control to about 6500 from memory valvetrain was quieter with them tooThanks Thom yeah mine won't see more than 6000 max, don't want to lose my legs from a flywheel popping lol. Only going to be a mild, hyd flat tappet cam either the one I have now or a couple of steps up to one with 0.507" lift, sticking with steel rockers for now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,260 Posted July 7, 2017 T Meyer now have the Hi-flow Thermostat and Orifice plate. Apparently made by the original supplier to FoMoCo. http://www.tmeyerinc.com/product-p/tbp-333-xxx.htm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted November 8, 2017 Hi folks, anyone used Speed-Pro pushrods on their build? Any discernible difference from the shitty stock ones that are made from licorice? They're the best price USA made ones i can find, seem like good value for about 80 bucks from Pavtek, length 8.383". Next step up is a set of Manleys for about $160, which are 8.375". Both are around the size I need.Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted November 8, 2017 speed pro are ok,the 8.383 is a std usa length but our clevos here had pushrods that are a bit longer.in std form.8.408 was our std pushrod.mellings make some good cheapies,but manley or trend at a bit more coin would be the go a very good product. 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted November 8, 2017 speed pro are ok,the 8.383 is a std usa length but our clevos here had pushrods that are a bit longer.in std form.8.408 was our std pushrod.mellings make some good cheapies,but manley or trend at a bit more coin would be the go a very good product.Cheers yeah plenty of cheap 8.408s around, but i got my heads shaved 0.025" and valves/seats re-cut (tips sit higher), block probably another 0.005 or 0.010 when it was done first time so in total have to go at least 0.030" shorter.Made a pushrod checker out of said factory licorice pushrod (thread soon in DIY) so will see what length I actually need (best to do homework first). Seat pressure is 125, up around 300 on the nose so $2 Sealed Power stockies won't cut it.Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted November 9, 2017 i have used the crow shim pack many times,comes in 30 and sixty thou,about 30 bucks,i always used to freak out about hyd set up but you can put a fair bit of preload on those lifters without trouble,anywhere from 020 to sixty thou is ballpark figure,just get zero lash on tdc and 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn is fine with no more than 1 full turn of the rocker bolt,use the crow shim pack to get ur preload right and just stick with std length. 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted November 9, 2017 i have used the crow shim pack many times,comes in 30 and sixty thou,about 30 bucks,i always used to freak out about hyd set up but you can put a fair bit of preload on those lifters without trouble,anywhere from 020 to sixty thou is ballpark figure,just get zero lash on tdc and 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn is fine with no more than 1 full turn of the rocker bolt,use the crow shim pack to get ur preload right and just stick with std length.Thanks i have both my std 8.408 ones and my pushrod checker set at 8.383 and will see which of the two lengths gives the more preferable preload. Shims sound like a nice easy fix but i'm running stock rockers for now and don't want to hurt the geometry too much (ie wear my new valve guides, etc). Looking at bolt-on rollers a bit down the track.Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites