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dasman78xc

Carbie jets for xflow and 350 holley

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Hi guys I am just wondering what are the best size jets to use my xc is all standard except for the holley and extractors I currently have 51s in it but I feel like there not doing the job right thanks <br /><br />Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk<br /><br />

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from memory on a Holden 6 I think they go well with 58s. Possibly you even go up to 62s but the bottom line is that what you have is bullshit lean.

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Thanks guys I thought she was starving I knew that the old girl could go harder than she is at the moment last time I take her into a professional lol <br /><br />Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk<br /><br />

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Thanks guys I thought she was starving I knew that the old girl could go harder than she is at the moment last time I take her into a professional lol

 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

 

 

If you can turn a flat screwdriver, you can change jets... Now's a good time to learn!

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Yeah I know how to do it I just wanted to know the best size jets for tha old girl I wasn't sure but I am now thanks again guys <br /><br />Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk<br /><br />

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I ran 63's in the 350 holley I had on my old xc, gave reasonable economy out on the highway and gave a nice boost over the standard Stromberg.

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I wish it was like the old days with super fuel then u just checked the exhaust if it was gray u wer sweet and if black u wer running rich easy <br /><br />Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk<br /><br />

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Bit of a thread hijack.

 

Can you run a standard XE 6cyl throttle cable or not?

Putting a new head/manifold on mine and just thought I'd ask before everything is put together and I end up needing a different cable.

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To run a Holley on a 6 cylinder you will need a longer cable.  An XE V8 cable is a perfect straight bolt in fit. 

 

An XG-XH cable will also fit but you will also need the throttle assembly from the XG-XH (or EF-EL same assembly) as the cable does not mount on the firewall like XE-XF - it mounts on the pedal assembly. 

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I use log manifold cables off EA-ED models.ED as there newer and seem to have been flogged less in a wagon :) But yes unless you have a 88 XF on you will need the pedal from around that model too.

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yeah I think the XH XH cables are just EA-ED cables Sly as the pedal assemblies are all the same.  I'm thinking of going that way on the race car as the XE V8 cables were a bit expensive last time I bought one. 

 

Part no.

 

BA 232 for XE V8 - straight bolt in

BA 262 for EB-ED - need pedal assembly

 

These part no.s are from Flexible drive agencies who, to my knowledge, are the only suppliers of cables in Australia. 

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While on the topic of 350 holley fuel systems, what size acc pump squirter should be used?

 

Recently put a 350 holley/redline manifold combo on mine and slowly getting it tuned in. Not sure on jet size at the moment but the squirter is size 31.

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Stock 30cc should be more than enough. 50 cc would only be needed on a crossy if running methanol or E85. Makes no difference anyway if you just swap the pump and nothing else. You need to step up the pump cam to increase the stroke to get the extra CCs. 31 squirters should be fine but I reckon even smaller would be better. I run 28s on my 302 no dramas at all. Going bigger in your squirters doesn't give you more total fuel, just dumps it in quicker.

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Pretty sure the acc pump size is the smaller 30cc one.

 

The squirter had 31 stamped on the side of it so I think a smaller one would help a bit. when I find out my jet size i will get they right jets (if it hasn't already got them) and put a smaller squirt nozzle in it.

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There is a bit in getting the timing of the pump nozzle discharge right but I would be starting with a 28 and then play with the cam to get timing right.  some cams have two screw positions so you can have a play with that.  Just make sure that you adjust/check the activating arm when you make a change. 

 

Then its just a matter of a bit of testing under load to check for stumbles and if you have an AFR gauge in the car - watching the reading when you tromp on it. 

 

Oh and a bush mechanic way of adjusting the stroke is to bend the activating arm - but I don't recommend this.  Having said that I have done it at the track on an occasion when I forgot my tune box and had to 'fix' another racers car. 

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Sorry didn't read your post correctly.. You didn't ask about acc pumps but hey now you know anyway

 

No problem, it's always good to learn something :)

 

 

There is a bit in getting the timing of the pump nozzle discharge right but I would be starting with a 28 and then play with the cam to get timing right.  some cams have two screw positions so you can have a play with that.  Just make sure that you adjust/check the activating arm when you make a change. 

 

Then its just a matter of a bit of testing under load to check for stumbles and if you have an AFR gauge in the car - watching the reading when you tromp on it. 

 

Oh and a bush mechanic way of adjusting the stroke is to bend the activating arm - but I don't recommend this.  Having said that I have done it at the track on an occasion when I forgot my tune box and had to 'fix' another racers car. 

 

Trying to get the acc pump timing dial in at the moment. bogs a bit off idle and a rough feel when transitioning from cruise to acceleration on the highways. Might also check on the pump cam/idle setting.

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Also could use a bit more float level. Some argue that it's a fixed setting that shouldn't be messed with but my argument is that if it's not supposed to be a variable thing, why does Holley make it adjustable? In my experience, it's a very useful method of tuning, especially the transition from idle/transfer to main circuit. Maybe try the usual setting of just lapping the bottom of the plug hole then screw out the adjuster 1/4 turn at a time to raise it a bit. This might just cure your cruise/load hesitation. You might need to jet up a tad If it's still there.

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Apparently it's meant to be set so it's at the bottom of the sight hole/window which is where it's at now (was nearly up the top of the window when I first got it).

Tried changing the pump cam to the second hole but little actually changed.

 

Best way to describe accelerating from low rpm (between 1,000 and ~2,100) is like being on a rodeo bull :lol:

 

Unfortunately I've just lost sunlight so I will have to give it another go tomorrow arvo.

 

Might have to looks at the idle mixtures. Haven't got a vacuum gauge for proper adjustment but as far as I can tell they're about 1.75 turns from bottom.

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I like to pull the bowl off to set float level.  Pull the bowl off turn it upside down and adjust the float level so that the float is level with the centre of the two screws that hold the needle and seat in place.  done.

 

so being a bit like being on a rodeo bull I take it you mean nothing and then everything.  I would say it is starving for fuel.  I'd be looking at the pump cam and the way it comes on.

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Something like that. Sort of like jabbing the throttle while in gear.

 

Looked at the pump cam, it was in the #1 position, tried the #2 position but no change.

 

I can confirm the squirter is indeed squirting quite well.

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